135 back for Mamiya Pro TL

Discussion in 'Medium Format Cameras and Accessories' started by revdocjim, Jun 17, 2011.

  1. revdocjim

    revdocjim Member

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    I can't get the film to advance to the next frame with my HC401 135 film back.

    I picked up the 135 film back for my Pro TL some time ago and finally decided to try it out. I think I loaded the film correctly, although I wasn't sure how far to advance it since there is no "start" mark on 35mm film. When I attached the back and turned on the camera it sounded like it was advancing properly to the first frame and the frame counter read "1". I adjusted the ISO to 400 on the back.

    I put on a 45mm lens and went outside. The first frame seemed to take just fine but I noticed that the film didn't advance after taking the shot. (I'm using the Power Drive Grip WG401) When I try to take a second shot it won't release the shutter. I removed the grip and tried it with the crank but it feels locked and won't advance. I even tried it with the smaller power drive grip WG402 and no luck.

    I also double checked to make sure the camera wasn't set on multiple exposure.

    I'm not sure if I loaded the film wrong or what...
    Any advice?
     
  2. Роберт

    Роберт Member

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    The 135 film back has a pretty special loading way. Look it up in the manual. I try to find it for you, but found only the M645 pro TL:
    http://www.mamiya.nl/client/mamiya/uploads/downloads/645_pro_tl_v8.pdf

    There is also a slide included to make panoramas. (Apart from the special (focus) glass with 135mm lines on it).

    It's very tricky to use it with the motor drive because at the end you can damage the drive or your film can come loose from the spool. You have to re-spool manually with the build in level winder on the back.
     
  3. Thingy

    Thingy Member

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    I have the same camera (amongst many others). The shutter doesn't "fire" if the back is not secured properly, you have left the dark slide infront, the shutter isn't cocked (I use leaf shutter lenses and the lens to body cable to ensure the shutter is cocked each time) or if one of the "pins" on the holder is not working properly. This pin tells the camera whether the back is attached properly to the camera back and can sometimes "stick". As the camera is fully interlocked, if one of these safety features is awry, that could account for your problem. Did you test out the holder before using it with film?
     
  4. Ottrdaemmerung

    Ottrdaemmerung Member

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    In addition to Thingy's suggestions, make sure your camera battery still has plenty of juice in it.
     
  5. revdocjim

    revdocjim Member

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    Thanks for the replies. Just to confirm, the dark slide was removed and the batteries were good.
    Anyway, I was frustrated and it was cheap color negative film so I opened up the back again, made sure everything was in place, and closed it again, making sure it shut tight.
    And now it works just fine!! I'm not sure what was wrong... either the film wasn't properly loaded or the back wasn't properly attached and sealed shut...
    Anyway, now it works.

    So one other question... is there a special focusing screen to with with this back, that has lines showing the outline of the 35mm frame? Or do you just guess?
     
  6. al5256

    al5256 Member

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  7. revdocjim

    revdocjim Member

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    Thanks al5256! That is a great manual to have. I'll have to keep my eyes open for the screen. In the mean time I'll just guess.
     
  8. japrufrock

    japrufrock Member

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    Mamiya 645 Pro 35mm film back

    I just acquired one of these in mint condition with panoramic adaptor, but no directions. I can't find directions on the internet. Butkus' excellent site lists this back among accessories, but there are no specific directions. My main concern is having to change to a special focusing screen, which is awkward in the 645 pro and pro tl bodies, unlike the 645 1000s, where the screden lifts out from the top when the viewfinder/prism is removed and clicks back in. My idea is to use a light paper mask, solid or translucent with a 35mm central opening cut in it by removing the prism and placing the mask on top of the screen and then replacing the prism. Has anyone tried this? It seems much easier than changing screens, especially when out in the countryside using different film sizes for scenics, etc.