Agfapan APX 400 developing times

Discussion in 'B&W: Film, Paper, Chemistry' started by mohawk, Mar 28, 2008.

  1. mohawk

    mohawk Member

    Dec 30, 2007

    Again a newby question but no info was found elsewhere, so I'm hoping you guys can help me out.
    I shot a roll of APX 400 rated 200 ISO just for testing. I've found a developing time for 250, but not for 200.
    Anyone got a clue ?

    I can develope in T-Max(Atomal/dektol)

    P.S. It would be nice to know how you can derive the right time for different ISO's based on the time you have gotten good results with, when the film was shot at boxspeed.

  2. Uhner

    Uhner Member

    Feb 28, 2006
    Oslo, Norway
    Multi Format
    Hi Alexander

    If you trust the recommended developing time you have for EI 250 I suggest that you use that as a starting point for your EI 200 roll.

    Regarding determination of developing times for different EI (Exposure Index). Hidden in these two recent threads are some good pointers, as well as descriptions of different approaches:

    However, I do believe that reading a well thought through published text on the subject is a much better alternative.

    Try one of the following books, several of them should be in print and it is quite possible that you will find some of them at a library:

    Les McLean – Creative black and white photography

    John P. Schaefer – Basic techniques of photography, Book I and Book II (Book II has the most detailed description).

    Ansel Adams – The Negative

    Even if I have not read the following two books I believe that I can recommend Edge of Darkness, by Barry Thornton and Beyond The Zone System by Phil Davis.
  3. jim appleyard

    jim appleyard Member

    Nov 21, 2004
    Multi Format
    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 28, 2008
  4. Ira Rush

    Ira Rush Member

    Aug 19, 2006
    Proud to be
    Medium Format


    In addition to the already listed sources, here is one more that I found very helpful.

    "The Film Developing CookBook, Anchell & Troop"

    For AgfaPan 400 at ASA 200 try;

    Edwal FG-7 (1+3) @ 6 min.
    Edwal FG-7 (1+15) @ 17 min.

    Kodak XTOL (1+1) ASA 100/200 @ 10.5 min.
    Kodak XTOL (1+2) ASA 100/200 @ 13.5 min.

    Another possibility is included in the pdf I've attached, if you have any Rodinal available.

    Good luck


    Attached Files:

  5. mr_phillip

    mr_phillip Member

    Jun 23, 2007
    I normally rate APX400 at 200asa (in bright light at least) and develop it in Rodinal 1+100 for 17 minutes (at 20°).
  6. edtbjon

    edtbjon Member

    Jun 8, 2004
    Medium Format
    To sort out what (probably) is mentioned in the links given above. There's one simple two-line rule that comes into play here:
    "Expose for the shadows..." (and I hear all of you say: "Oh no, not again..." :smile: )
    which is what you've done. As the film sensitivity changes a little bit depending on choice of developer and developing time, the ASA number isn't fixed, but it's normally somewhere at half to two-thirds of the boxspeed. 200 or 250 doesn't really matter, it's 1/3 of a stop and well within all of the other things that can vary. You're not only in the ballpark, you're in the very center of it.
    Now to the second part:
    "... and develop for the highlights", meaning you have to know what you want to emphasize in your pictures. If you shoot 35mm film, this usually will be a compromise, while LF shooters normally develops one or more sheets of film for any desired contrast.
    Please note, this is really what will vary with different development times. It doesn't matter if you're 1/3 of a stop wrong in exposure.
    If you shoot a full roll on one scene, it's simple. If you have shot it during several occations under different light you will have to compromise. But normally the time/temperature/dilution for any given combination of film and developer is given for that compromise, i.e. midday, somewhat overcast sky where the shadows are slightly fuzzy. (That is 7 stops between black and white.)
    For normal shooting you can suffice with knowing about the two other types of light. I.e. full sun (9 stops difference between black and white) with sharp shadows. Then there's full overcast with almost no shadows (5 stops difference). It's quite easy to learn about how to develop the film by just looking at the shadows. A starting point would be that you develop the high contrast scene (full sun) to 80% of the recommended time, while the film from that gloomy dull gray day will look better at 125%. Now, these are starting points, but it will get you in the ballpark so to say.
    Just in order to pick up and conclude what I started with: Given a 400 boxspeed film, the real speed is normally say 250. The film shoot on that sunny day will be developed less, so it will loose a little bit, to say 200. The "gloomy" film will stay longer in the soup and will gain a little bit of overall speed, so it will land on 320 or in some cases even the nominal boxspeed. As you may already have noticed, the speed of the film doesn't vary that much, even though the contrast can vary a lot.
    You don't have to worry about being 1/3 stop off when setting your meter, especially as you gave it that 1/3 stop of extra exposure. All that will happen is that you may have to expose the negatives a couple of seconds longer when you print them.