Am I frying my film?

Discussion in 'B&W: Film, Paper, Chemistry' started by synj00, Sep 4, 2008.

  1. synj00

    synj00 Member

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    I use Kodak Rapid fix and have the solution A and solution B concentrate. I mix according to the instructions for 1 gallon.

    "To prepare a fixing bath for films and plates"

    start with 1/2 gal water
    mix 32 fl oz of solution A
    mix 3 1/2 fl oz of solution B
    add water to make 1 gal

    I use this as my working solution and pour from the gallon strait into the tank for my film fixer. I recently had someone tell me that I should be using a diluted version of this like 1:4 for film and that the strength of my fixer is too much. I see no problem using it the way that I have been but just want to be sure Im not going to have problems down the road. Any opinions? :confused:
     
  2. djhopscotch

    djhopscotch Member

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    You mixed it to use with film, so you can use it undiluted from your gallon mix. Ilford rapid fix you mix 1:4 with film, that might be what they were talking about. If you use the kodak rapid fix for paper you would need to cut your solution 1:1 with water.
     
  3. synj00

    synj00 Member

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    Thanks djhopscotch! Its what I thought, just wanted to verify with some other knowledgeable folks too :smile:
     
  4. dancqu

    dancqu Member

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    No specific dilution is needed as long as there
    is enough of the chemistry to thoroughly fix the
    film. When I was using a Rapid Fix the dilution
    ran 1:24: a 120 roll, 500ml solution volume.
    Fresh fix each roll. Dan
     
  5. fschifano

    fschifano Member

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    Yes, that's certainly true. While I don't go to those extremes, I do use my fixer at half strength for paper and film. The capacity of the 1/2 strength working solution is, as you'd expect, diminished, and it is a bit slower working. But the working solution doesn't build up as high a concentration of silver thiosulfate complexes either. That's an especially good practice when using fiber based papers, and it does no harm when used with RC papers and film.
     
  6. David Brown

    David Brown Subscriber

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    I usually go with the instructions over opinions. :wink:
     
  7. Paul Verizzo

    Paul Verizzo Member

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    No trans fat Crisco is my favorite product for frying......
     
  8. dancqu

    dancqu Member

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    Extreme, 1:24? I was regularly using rapid fix at 1:32, 500ml
    fixer volume. The 1:24 came about because of suspected
    fix concentrate deterioration.

    Highly dilute one-shot fixer usage Guarantees silver levels
    well within 'archival'. Fresh each or a few rolls or each or
    a few prints; simultaneous processing. Dan
     
  9. gainer

    gainer Subscriber

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    Sometimes when I'm travelling and sometimes when I'm not, I dump an ounce of TF4 concentrate into a 16 ounce developing tank with the developer after developing time has passed. Three minutes with vigorous agitation for most films, longer for the Tmax type, is long enough. Then I throw it all out. If necessary, I pour a little developer out to make room for the fix. The fix pretty well stops the developing. I can carry enough chemicals in two 8 oz. bottles of concentrates to do 8 rolls of negatives. No problems yet.
     
  10. Stuggi

    Stuggi Member

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    Are you talking Ilford Rapid Fix? That trick would save me a lot of money... ^^
     
  11. dancqu

    dancqu Member

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    I used PF's 60% ammonium thiosulfate concentrate
    with nothing added. A liter bottle was split to 1/4 liters
    then a 1/4 liter to 1/16 liters. One of those was then split
    to 1/64s and later, after some aging, to 1/48s liter.
    I shoot only a few rolls a year so do more splits
    than some would do.

    Any off the shelf rapid concentrate should run 60%
    give or take some little. Test a roll with 20ml. Constant
    agitation the first minute and each minute there after a
    few inversions. Allow 5 or 6 minutes then check for clear.
    You'll fine tune the time after a few rolls.

    Be sure the film is clear + prior to dumping the fix. There is
    no checking the fixer for twice clearing time. Although the
    fixer is very little loaded with silver on a volumetric basis
    it should be NEARLY exhausted. Tests used unexposed
    rolls. Unexposed places the entire silver load in the
    fixer. So some excess fixer. I've not tested with
    iodized films.

    Low volume or high, fresh fix, no testing needed, no
    rebottling. Dan