Discussion in 'Contact Printing' started by avandesande, Dec 3, 2006.
What amidol combination are you using to print on Kentmere Kentona?
Michael A Smith's Amidol formula works just fine with Kentona. You can get it from his Website at www.michaelandpaula.com
MAS formula works fine with the bromide paper. Havent tried kentona yet though. His formula works good with just about anything.
Do you mean his Amidol formula for contact printing on AZO or the one he suggests for enlarging papers?
I use his contact printing formula with Kentona with great results. The only thing I change sometimes is the bromide to get a little warmer image tone.
The one for enlarging.
How do you recommend something you haven't tried?
I've developed contact prints on both Azo and Kentona from the same negative in the same batch of MAS contact printing formula Amidol using the Amidol from the recent Chinese bulk purchase. I also developed both papers (again using the same negative) in Amidol from Artcraft, again using Michael Smith's contact printing formula. We used either 4 or 8 ccs bromide (I can't remember which was which) per liter in these Amidol working solutions.
The results were beautiful for both papers and for both sources of Amidol. The image color of Kentona was superior to my eye. But in any case, the answer to your question is that the contact printing formula works fine for Kentona.
I would be hesitant to even try the enlarging formula because the benzotriazole might really screw up the beautiful color you get with Kentona.
I was curious to see if I would be stuck using BZ, it seems like the bromide is good enough.
Okay, I am set up with the Chinese amidol (this stuff is ugly!)
I am having some problems with 'pinking' of the emulsion with kentona if I develop for more than a minute or so. The bromide paper does not seem to be effected.
I am using rapid fixer.... does the same thing about using regular hypo apply? Anyone else having problems with this?
I use only plain hypo fixer for printing. I think that if you do your problems will disappear.
Jim, I have a friend who has tried Kentona - I don't remember the developer, but it was probably Nutrol or Ansco 130. He wound up with a blotchy, cream-colored (coloured) tint to his prints. Have you seen this problem using amidol?
I've used Kentona in Neutol WA and Ansco 130 with excellent results (as well as with Ilford Warmtone and Multigrade devs) so I very much doubt your friend's problem was typical. The paper has been widely used for years so any such "blotchy" problem would have come to light many moons ago.
Personal experience tells me that 99% of the time when I have had a problem with any negative or print it was my fault, not the material's fault...
I tried with hypo fixer, and I was able to wash the prints clean of the pink after a long time. It is kind of annoying trying to figure out what the final look of the print is going to be when it is so highly color. Have you guys had the same experience?
The only time I had any color problems was when I overtoned them in concentrated Kodak RST. They turned a bilious magenta. But in the plain hypo fixer they were a gorgeous warm black. Always.
I can pretty much get the pink out, interestingly enough with a side by side comparison the kentmere bromide appeared warmer than the kentona. The kentona had a hint of green, and the bromide paper had a very slight purple, much like a hint of selenium toner.
The emulsion is soft though and seems to pick up junk from my water, which is not filtered. I am probably going to give a nod to the bromide paper since it is easier to use, and the tonality to my eyes (other than the color) pretty much the same.
What "BULK" purchase of Chinese Amidol? Was that a one time thing? Is it significantly cheaper?
That's all a done deal. If you held a gun to Gregs' head to do another one he would probably say,"shoot".
Some of the people that help organize the purchase had people back out... you could probably score some with a WTB in the classifieds.
Yes. After packaging and shipping it worked out to about $60.00/lb. That's why we did it.
I am one who bought into the Bulk Purchase but found out later I would have to deal with PhotogFormulary to get the stuff sent. I refuse to deal with these jokers for anything, for any reason or under any circumstances. Anyone want to buy me out so they can get in on the full 10 pounds that is sitting at Formulary waiting for the final payment?
I so, email me at firstname.lastname@example.org and we can get it figured out.
Since Kentona is developer incorporated are you seeing any difference in using amidol vs "regular" developers?
A friend of mine and i have been working on a very close situation to yours. He kept saying his prints would turn pink by the time they finished washing. He thought it was his developer or fixer or something like that. But when I asked him how he set it up I didn't think it was the chemicals. I took some of the so called pink prints and rewashed some at my darkroom, then refixed some. nothing happened. then I throw one into Potassium Ferricyanide and found that the print turned brown! Well what he thought was pink was a very light brown stain. He uses well water at his home so we tried something different. Instead of washing his prints for 30mins. we did what perma wash indicatd for SW paper. 5 mins wash 5 mins perma wash and then 5 mins wash. NO STAINING. There is something in his water that is reacting with the silver in the print and staining it. He is going to get his water checked for metals and elements to see if we can figure out which one.
I'm not sure this is your problems but, I thought I would relay what we had.
I've noticed the same problem with Kentona in Ansco 130. I keep getting a print with a very slight, but noticable, yellow/brown tint in the highlights. Almost like the paper was slightly fogged. I couldn't figure it out. Thanks for the info about the Permawash...I'll try that today and see how it works for me.
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