Discussion in 'Exposure Discussion' started by Iluvmycam, Jul 11, 2013.
Pushed or not. Do you have any captures you can show me to illustrate what 3200 looks like?
One of my best friends in Beautiful Delta 3200, Sunny day - Pentax K1000 50mm Processed in Ilfosol S at recommended specs.
capture, that's a digi term
here's about 11,000 examples: http://www.flickr.com/groups/55584695@N00/
Delta 3200 - negative scan (developed in Tmax developer):
Tmax 3200 - print scan (developed in Rodinal to get grain bigger):
Wild Bill has given you a reasonable place to look.
There are so many variables that it is hard to make any reasonable judgement about a film by anything you see, Internet or print.
Some things you just gotta try to understand.
OK, thanks for all the feedback!
these were taken on drawer stored 10+ year old tmz processed in coffee
others here: http://www.apug.org/forums/blogs/jnanian/343-cup-coffee-negatives.html
Here are some prints from Delta 3200 and TMax 3200 negs, and I threw in a Neopan 1600 shot too, for good measure. All exposed at about EI 1,000.
Portrait is Neopan 1600 (in DD-X).
Feather, Mannequin Sailor, and Street shot are 35mm Delta 3200 in Rodinal or Edwal 12.
Fern Detail is 120 Delta 3200 in Edwal 12.
The Minneapolis night shot is TMax 3200 in Xtol.
Hope that helps.
This Fern detail is wondeful ! Can you give us some details on the print ?
Thanks for sharing.
What kind of details do you need?
Thomas is excellent printer, just look at his gallery or flickr. So I think details will not help a lot, behind those prints are experienced hands ...
anyway, take your pick, a mixture of 35 and medium format, mostly scans from prints.
Hey, thanks, but compared to many I'm just a hack...
The print was made on Ilford MGIV fiber paper, in replenished Ethol LPD for 2.5 minutes. Matte surface, the print is 8x8 inches in size. Very little manipulation was required. I tried toning it, but found that I liked it better when neutral in tone like this. The trick to getting consistently good prints without too much darkroom gymnastics, is to make your negatives so that they work with your paper and paper developer well. You can, obviously, still make nice prints if your negative isn't ideal, but it helps a lot to know what to do with the film. My own approach is that I start with the paper. My standard paper for everything is Ilford MGIV fiber, and my only print developer is replenished Ethol LPD. I make my negatives so that they print well at medium contrast, which gives me a lot of flexibility to both increase and decrease contrast come printing time.
Delta 3200 is a film that has fairly low inherent contrast. That is why it works so well to be push processed to higher exposure index.
To yield a normal contrast print at medium contrast enlarger filtration, you want to develop the film for a fairly long time, and I have a hunch that this is why so many of us find that we need to develop the film longer than Ilford recommends.
I used Edwal 12 for this negative, which gives brilliant results; it is the opposite of a compensating developer, it gives high intensity to the highlights, and you end up shooting your film almost like slide film when you use it.
I hope those details help out a little bit in understanding the film, and how to treat it to yield contrast similar to other more 'normal' contrast films, like Tri-X or HP5.
But any film developer does well with this film as long as you have the ability to build contrast.
Nice work, Chris.
Thank you, Thomas!
3200 was the name of the game for me for a long, long time, whether that was pushed hp5/neopan 400/tri-x or using delta 3200. I have since began shooting in normal waking hours again, and so am doing less of the ridiculous push processing and negative wrangling that I used to, preferring FP4+ and normally exposed HP5+ for a lot of things...but looking at these again makes me want to load my A12s up with D3200 and cause some trouble...
screw it...might as well throw a selfie in...
Thanks a lot Thomas for all the details very informative.
And Chris, wonderful prints !
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