Anyone using Jobo 1500 series for single 8x10 sheetfilm

Discussion in 'B&W: Film, Paper, Chemistry' started by ic-racer, Sep 1, 2008.

  1. ic-racer

    ic-racer Member

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    I found this distant post by Mike Fagan:
    I did not find anything more specific on using the 1500 series drums for 8x10 sheetfilm. I had tried multiple 4x5 films in a 1500 series drum, but they shifted around, so I got the Expert drum for 4x5.

    For 8x10, I don't see why it would not work for a single sheet at a time.
     
  2. phaedrus

    phaedrus Member

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    Sorry, no experience with the drums you mentioned and 8x10, but I'm happy to report that developing single sheets of 8x10 film in a Durst "Codrum" works quite well. I found this drum in my old darkroom at my parent's place, decades ago I must have used it for 8x10 Cibachrome. It uses only 200 ml of chemicals.
     
  3. Cor

    Cor Member

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    I use a 2830 Paper Drum - (capacity 2x10x8in, or 4x5x7in) for processing 2 8*10 films at a time, without any problems on a CPE2 JOBO,

    Best,

    Cor

     
  4. ic-racer

    ic-racer Member

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    Do you use a pre-wash? I was thinking that since paper is developed to completion and films are not, any un-evenness in the initial developer contact may show up in the film. Thus I was thinking of using a pre-wash.
     
  5. Cor

    Cor Member

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    Yes,

    I do use a pre-wash of 3-5 minutes with distilled water (I place the films in a dry drum).

    FYI thus far I have had no problems with remaining anti-halo layers etc, so I do all my processing and washing in the drum.

    Good luck,

    Cor

     
  6. ic-racer

    ic-racer Member

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    Looks like I'll be trying this this week, and I'll post tank volumes and results I come up with.
     
  7. ic-racer

    ic-racer Member

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    Results are fantastic.

    I used the Jobo 1526 tank. This consists of the 1520 bottom and the 1530 extension.

    Jobo literature indicates a 50 ml minimum to develop an 8x10 print in this drum. T-max developer requires 80 ml to develop an 8x10 and that is clearly above the minimum. (Maximum volume for the tank is over one liter, so 80 ml obviously less than that).

    I did FP4 and the film was totally cleared after 5 min in fixer and there was no evidence of problems with the film back-side, prior to washing in a tray.

    I used rotation speed "P" and a 2 minute, 150 ml, water prewash, following the 5 minute 'temp-equilibration' spin.

    The results are much better than tray development for me. I was getting excess density on the edges using a 8x10 tray. This improved somewhat with a 14x17 tray. Going to a 16x20 tray may have solved it but 2000ml of chemistry for 1 film vs 80ml in the drum is a big difference.
     
  8. Mick Fagan

    Mick Fagan Subscriber

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    Congratulations, I have followed this thread since it's inception. I wanted to see if you would go ahead, you did.

    If you had decided to not go ahead I would have chimed in.

    I have used the 1500 system to develop Duratrans, C41, E6 and B&W film in the 8x10" format, with great success on my CPE2.

    I have also done 2 x 8x10" sheets in the 2840 drum, which is a 12x16" paper drum which will handle the same amount as the 2830 drum that Cor uses.

    By the way, I haven't used a pre-wet (wash) with rotary developing of film or paper for the last 20 odd years, never had a problem.

    Mick.
     
  9. ic-racer

    ic-racer Member

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    I normally don't use it for either. One thing that I was getting on my tray-developed 8x10 sheets was marks from the initial contact with the developer in the tray. I was a little concerned that likewise, the 80ml of solution would not cover the film rapidly enough in the tank, since the surface area is so great. Thus the prewash.
     
  10. Mick Fagan

    Mick Fagan Subscriber

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    Interesting, that sounds like you are running very short developing times, to get marks.

    Were these marks actually density differences, or were they handling marks?

    80ml of solution is going to cover the entire sheet of film in around 4 seconds, give or take, at 15 revolutions a minute. I don't know what speed your "P" setting is, but it couldn't be too much slower than that.

    At that speed, your film will be completely submerged possibly faster than if using a tray/dish. Unless you are not using a lift to drop the solution in, I don't see speed of coverage being an issue.

    Mick.
     
  11. eclarke

    eclarke Member

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    I do too...EC
     
  12. ic-racer

    ic-racer Member

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    Thats good to know. I have seen a few of these for sale for a fraction of the 5 hole expert drum for 8x10. Hey its 2/5ths as good!
     
  13. Trevor Crone

    Trevor Crone Member

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    I've a Jobo 3005 Expert drum which is ok if you want to process 5 sheets of 8x10 film; however I've started to use a 2830 drum when I just want to process 2 sheets of 8x10 film. I roll manually using the Jobo 1509 roller and use 200ml of chemistry for the two sheets of 8x10 film. Very convenient and economical. Plus the manual roll gives my arms a much needed workout:smile:

    When I need to process just one sheet of 8x10 I still favour the Paterson Orbital print processor.
     
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  15. lensmagic

    lensmagic Subscriber

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    Hi, could you please tell me about your "temp-equilibration spin?" Does the tank contain any liquid?
     
  16. ic-racer

    ic-racer Member

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    Just spinning the tank with only film, before the first chemical is put in. Part of the sequence recommended by Jobo.
     
  17. Skorzen

    Skorzen Member

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    I'm a little late in the game here but I thought I would mention that I have been using a JOBO 2830 drum for my new explorations in 8X10 (I've only developed 6 sheets so far). My impressions are that it works quite well. I also have an extension that seems like it should let me do 4 sheets, but I'm not sure how that'll work just yet, anyone try that? I did have a 3005 drum that I picked up in a lot of gear and then resold think "I'll never shoot 8X10".... stupid idea lol. I am starting to think that if the 2830 with extension works (2840?) that might almost be a better option (at least that's what I'm telling myself) as it means I have an even number of sheets, just like they come in film holders.
     
  18. ic-racer

    ic-racer Member

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    IMPORTANT NOTE:

    I noticed some curious light marks on the base surface of the film I was developing. Initially, of course, I figured it was a manufacturing defect in the film.

    Turns out it is from a somewhat sharp edge around the lining of the 1530 three-reel extension, near the end with the orange locking ring. This plastic edge actually scratches the back of the film as the film shifts a little during the agitation process.

    The marks do not show up in printing with a diffusion head.

    I used sandpaper to remove this sharp edge. I did not like doing this because now the dull surface will be a 'chemical magnet' so I need to be diligent in keeping that area of the drum clean.
     
  19. dng88

    dng88 Member

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    I do not have a lift and I have tried a quite bit with 2840 by trying various combination but all ruin my 8x10 sheets (>10 in fact). I also have 2830 which also run my sheets.

    Finally, it seems this arrangement work i.e. use less liquid (at maximum not up to the cup or <400 ml), 6ml HC110 per 8x10 sheets and with pre-soak 1 minute. Still, I am not sure and I do not want to waste any more sheets. It is a hard job to take 8x10 using my Kodak 2D already. Really not want to ruin it even though it is not that expensive (Shanghai 8x10) and it is just a hobby.

    I thought I found the whole process disheartening and thinking seriously about give tray development a try (but that have to be done in dark room which I cannot access all the time). After reading this thread, may be 2830/2840 is ok.

    Can I confirm with anyone who does not have a lift what is his/her procedure when using 2830 and 2840? I used both hand roll and machine roll and mainly use HC110, Kodak Indicative Stop Bath and Kodafix.
     
  20. muratoruc

    muratoruc Member

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  21. ic-racer

    ic-racer Member

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    Just an update to this thead. I finally got a 2830 drum as recommended by others here and it is nice. My impression is that evenness at the film edge is better than the single sheet in a 1500 drum.

    Now I would like to get the 2870 extension module to do 4 8x10s at a time. So for like $60 USD I could do 4 at a time, vs $500 for an expert drum to do 5 at a time.

    I see that I can also pick up a 2840 tank which includes the 2870 extension module and gives me an extra lid and a little test strip drum.
     
  22. Photo Engineer

    Photo Engineer Subscriber

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    Just be careful. The added weight of the double tank (or the 3000 series for that matter) can crack the handle or handle attachment when lifing due to weight. I use both hands. My left lifts the handle and my right helps lift the bottom of the double drum or 3000.

    Jobo's newer models had a reinforced handle and attacment.

    PE
     
  23. Nick Zentena

    Nick Zentena Member

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    The extension and the 2830 drum is a huge monster. It's for 16x20 paper IIRC.

    The 2840 is the 11x14 drum.
     
  24. ic-racer

    ic-racer Member

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    Yes, the 2800 looks like its the lowest riding tank series. Getting one's hand under the tank to lift it may require a string on the end of the arm. I used my handle to tip up the 2830 to get my hand under there but did not like doing it.

    My Jobo CPP2 was made in 2000, would that have the reinforced handle?
     
  25. ic-racer

    ic-racer Member

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    Yes. Adding the 2830 and the 2870 makes the monster 2850 drum for a single 16x20 or 4 8x10. Volume would be reasonable as I'd use 280 cc for 4 sheets of 8x10. Not sure the best way to load it. Perhaps load the 2830 base with two sheets first, then snap the 2870 extender on and load the next two sheets in that. Otherwise it would be quite a deep reach to get those first two sheets in place.

    Looks like one recently sold on e-pay for just over six buck.
     
  26. Photo Engineer

    Photo Engineer Subscriber

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    I can't really help except to guess "yes" as the information I had was dated at about that time or a tad earlier.

    I never saw anything that indicated what it even looked like, but the gearing mechanism had to be upgraded at the same time to prevent burnout of the motor and stripping of gears for that drum and the 3000 series. The upgrade cost about $1200 and took a good electrician or a shop to put in the new electronics and motor.

    At one time, Jobo gave out serial # ranges for all units with mods.

    PE