AP reels in Paterson

Discussion in 'Darkroom Equipment' started by finny99, Feb 20, 2006.

  1. finny99

    finny99 Member

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    I have two paterson tanks, one is a 2 reel other a 3 reel. The 2 reel tank is ready to go with 2 paterson reels, that will get me going, but I want to be able to use both so when one is wet I can switch over to the other one, and I usually shoot over two rolls in a couple of days. Just wondering if the AP reels are as good as the paterson, or if I should just pay the extra and get paterson reels? Thanks
     
  2. srs5694

    srs5694 Member

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    My experience is that the AP reels are just a little bit worse than the Paterson reels, but both types tend to jam on me, so I've switched to stainless steel.
     
  3. Donald Qualls

    Donald Qualls Member

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    I've got a "Universal" plastic reel that's a perfect fit in my Paterson Super System 4 tank. I can either develop two 120 rolls end to end, or two 35 mm one above the other (though in practice I usually do 35 mm in stainless -- easier to load, IMO, and uses a little less soup).
     
  4. NikoSperi

    NikoSperi Member

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    Worse? You've got to be kidding... I replaced all the Paterson reels with AP because they are THAT much better. The fat flange that keeps the 120 film flat and in to grooves is fab.
    I took a lighter to the Paterson reels and torched them in a ritualistic revenge for all the crimped 120 films they killed. Do yourself a favour and do the same.
     
  5. Peter Black

    Peter Black Subscriber

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    Hi Nicola

    Well I just tried to develop my first 35mm b&w film for quite a while last night, and jammed it good and solid on an AP reel. I then switched to a Paterson reel and jammed it good and solid on that one as well. If practice makes perfect, lack of practice just makes it plain useless.

    Searched here afterwards and found this thread which gives many opinions:

    http://www.apug.org/forums/showthread.php?t=23438&highlight=reel
     
  6. NikoSperi

    NikoSperi Member

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    You want to make super sure they're bone dry. If it's raining outside can be enough to make them stick - take a hair dryer to them for a few minutes first. That applies to any plastic reels. You also want to clip off the corners of the film you're feeding in. I don't do it for 120, but if the 135 is clipped across a sprocket hole, it's very easy for it to jam. Good luck!
     
  7. Peter Black

    Peter Black Subscriber

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    It surprised me because I've hardly ever had problems with 35mm since I clip the film then start them off in the light until they are properly caught. It's no big deal as I was trying out a Nikon FE2 I bought secondhand recently, and I got to frame 27 before the film just kinked badly and I had to cut it. Wouldn't want it to happen for real though!

    I actually bought the AP reel some while back for 120 as I'm one of those who just seem to have problems with 120. No problem at all in a darkroom working on the open bench, but always a problem in a changing bag. I'll make sure they're clean and dry next time!
     
  8. Tom Stanworth

    Tom Stanworth Member

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    Neither AP nor Paterson will; give ANY trouble as long as you do two things:

    Do NOT immerse the reels and film in wetting agent. Remove the film from the reels first. Since doing this there is zero stickiness and both 35mm and 120 load almost by themselves. I also make sure evrything is bone dry and my hands are washed with soap and dried first to make them very dry and lacking in oils which can make the leading edge which you are trying to get past the ball bearing a bit tacky.

    Clip the corners of film (esp 120 to a 45 degree angle so is slips past the bearing and does not suffer any damaage which can casue snagging later on).

    APUG contributers gave me the tip about not letting reels near wetting agen when film is inside and WHAT A DIFFERENCE!!!!!!

    Tom
     
  9. edz

    edz Member

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  10. Brac

    Brac Member

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    I go along with preferring the AP reels slightly to the Paterson and also the advice for 120 film to just clip the corners at the start of the film before attempting to load it. And as others have said the reels must be completely dry or trouble is guaranteed.
     
  11. Gerald Koch

    Gerald Koch Member

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    After ruining several rolls of film using plastic reels I switched to SS reels. I have never regretted my decision and have had no problems in 50 years. Once you are familiar with the SS reels they are actually easier to load than the plastic ones and give less trouble. You also save a bit on chemistry since they require less.
     
  12. Donald Qualls

    Donald Qualls Member

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    Well, yes and no. I do most of my 120 in my Paterson tank now (though on the Universal reel, as it's easier to start with the big tabs), because I can load two rolls end to end (with a little square of masking tape to hold the head of the second roll to the tail of the first, so they don't overlap); that lets me do two rolls in 500 ml, while 120 in stainless means using 12+ ounces of developer (around 375 ml, minimum) for one roll. And I've tried loading them back to back, but had to pull them out and respool them, wet, then soak in sodium sulfite solution, to get the antihalation dye off the back...