Arista Premium Odorless LIQUID fixer concentrate

Discussion in 'B&W: Film, Paper, Chemistry' started by ymc226, Jul 29, 2007.

  1. ymc226

    ymc226 Member

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    Does anyone know how long the Arista Premium will keep in both an unopened and opened half used bottle?

    I use 5L jugs of Ilford Hypam rapid fixer which have to be shipped for significant sums but I just priced the Arista liquid concentrate 64oz size from Freestyle and found that it would be much cheaper to ship even in quantity.

    Presently using the Ilford Hypam, I fix fiber prints for 1 minute and film for 2 minutes using fresh fixer. Would my times be the same with the Arista? I assume it is ammonium thio as well.
     
  2. Silverhead

    Silverhead Member

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    It is indeed ammonium thio, and your fixing times should be about the same, at least according to the label instructions.
     
  3. fschifano

    fschifano Member

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    I can offer you another substitute, if you are interested. Kodak's C-41 Flexicolor Fixer & Replenisher works very well as a fixer for B&W films and papers and is very inexpensive. Since it is only slightly acidic, ~ph 6.5 if I recall, it has almost no odor when mixed to working strength. Capacity is as good or better than B&W rapid fixers and it is fast working. I have used this product as my fixer of choice for a few years with no ill effects to film or paper.

    Avoid fixers for the C-41RA process. These are not the same type of product and are reported to be incompatible with standard B&W materials.
     
  4. w35773

    w35773 Member

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    Since this question concerns the same product (Arista Odorless fixer) I'll ask it here.

    Does anyone know how much capacity this stuff has for film? I am currently fixing 4x5 sheets in my homemade processing tubes by mixing 60 ml of working solution for each sheet. (54 ml of distilled water with 6 ml of concentrate) Does this sound like too little fixer for 20 sq. in. of film?

    Thanks!
     
  5. w35773

    w35773 Member

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    I guess I could use my hypo-check to see if the fixer is exhausted when I am done processing. I think I answered my own question!
     
  6. Paul Howell

    Paul Howell Member

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    My best guess this that Artistic is rebranded Clayton, all of the Aritstic chemicals seem to match the Clayton descriptions. I have used Clayton Fixer for several years, it will go bad much more quickly than Kodak or Zonal Pro, but seems to have the same capacity as Kodak rapid fix.
     
  7. JHannon

    JHannon Member

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    I looked at the online MSDS info for Arista Premium odorless fixer on Freestyle's site and saw the Clayton name and address at the bottom.
     
  8. Lowell Huff

    Lowell Huff Inactive

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    Yes, Clayton Chemical makes the Arista Odorless Fixer. Yes, it is truely odorless. Yes, while we guarrantee our products for a minimum two years of shelf life. Yes, all fixers and developers will eventually "go bad." We will replace any product that does not meet your perceived performance or product value. Capacity of any product is dependant on the dilution and application. Please feel free to contact me about any technical information or help you need.
     
  9. Andrew Moxom

    Andrew Moxom Member

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    As I am also a user of Ilford Hypam as it is a non hardening fixer. Is the Arista/Clayton non hardening aswell?
     
  10. dancqu

    dancqu Member

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    I too use one-shot fixer although with 120 and tank volume of
    500ml. I've switched to S. Thio. but have used as little as 15ml
    of A. Thio. concentrate. I'd recommend 20ml. concentrate.

    My dilutions are so great that the potassium iodide hypo check
    does not work. So I tested for minimum amounts and two or three
    pink and mottled rolls later I finely arrived at clear and no color.
    A pinch more concentrate, liquid or solid, for additional margin.

    I suggest you do the same. Use too little to start then build
    up to clear and no color + a pinch more. Unexposed film puts
    all the load on the fixer so it's a worst case test. Dan
     
  11. w35773

    w35773 Member

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    Excellent Idea, Dan! I like to save on my chemical $$$.
     
  12. Paul Howell

    Paul Howell Member

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    Clayton is non hardening as well, which is why when I am printing with Salvich single weight paper I use standard fix.
     
  13. dancqu

    dancqu Member

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    That 6ml you've mentioned should be about right. On an
    8x10 or a roll of 120 basis that is 24ml. A test for minimum
    may be 4ml. More time is required as less fix is used because
    the fixer is nearer exhaustion towards the end of it's use.

    Arbitrarily I set 10 minutes with intermittent inversion agitation
    as the time in which complete fixation must take place. Some
    take that much time using rapid fix. You'd need to balance
    time and great chemical milage.

    Thrifty use and time considerations aside there is the
    assuredness of using fresh chemistry each use and the
    convenience of tossing the used fix down the drain. Dan
     
  14. pmongillo

    pmongillo Member

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    I have had a bottle of undiluted oderless fixer (Arista) opened for a little over a month. I opened it yesterday to make a new batch and it smelled a bit like rotten eggs. It had a bit of white particulate material floating around in it as well. I used it and it seemed to be working, but now I am having second thoughts and think maybe I should refix the prints. Has the unconcentrted fixer gone bad?

    Paul
     
  15. srs5694

    srs5694 Member

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    The symptoms you describe (rotten-egg odor and floating particulate matter) are certainly the symptoms of bad fixer. I can't say with certainty that anything you've fixed in that fixer is improperly fixed, but if you intend the prints to last, re-fixing in fresh fixer would be the safest course of action.
     
  16. kokoshawnuff

    kokoshawnuff Member

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    I'm sorry to revive an old thread, but I have been using the Arista Odorless Liquid fixer for my last dozen rolls or so, and complete clearing takes a lot longer than the 1-2 min as the instructions on the bottle suggests (mine take 10-15min for a fresh batch). The instructions say a dilution of 1:9 for both film and paper, but if this fixer is indeed the same as the Clayton then 1:4 would be necessary. Does anyone have experience or a suggestion as to a dilution to make for a shorter fixing time? Normally I would just go back to illford or Kodak fixer, but I prefer the odorless.
     
  17. padraigm

    padraigm Member

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    I agree with koko. I only use this stuff for prints as film was just taking too long for my patience...:smile: . I have had it "crash" with precipitate. It did continue to work with the film I was using but the particulate stuck to the film emulsion and pretty much ruined it for anything else but scanning. It is cheap and seems to work fine, I have no evidence to suggest otherwise. For film I use PF Tf-4.film clears in no time and is long lasting. I have not done the math but I bet there is not much difference in mileage between them.
     
  18. kokoshawnuff

    kokoshawnuff Member

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    If its not just me, then I guess the Clayton is worth a try before going back to something else.