AristaEDU 100 EI???

Discussion in 'B&W: Film, Paper, Chemistry' started by stradibarrius, Jan 25, 2012.

  1. stradibarrius

    stradibarrius Member

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    I did a search for this information but didn't find anything.
    I know it depends on variables but, what are some of the EI's that have given you good results with this film?
    BTW I am shooting 4x5 sheets.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 25, 2012
  2. padraigm

    padraigm Member

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    64 is a good starting point...
     
  3. Mainecoonmaniac

    Mainecoonmaniac Subscriber

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    It depends on your film developer. From my experience, Xtol is the only developer you can shoot at the "box" ASA. Arista EDU looks good with Xtol. Some fine grain developers like Microdol-X you'll might have to shoot at a lower ASA. But you'll have to run a test.
     
  4. Thomas Bertilsson

    Thomas Bertilsson Subscriber

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    What kind of light will you be shooting in?

    Normal contrast I used this film at EI 80, with modern high contrast lenses, printed with condenser enlarger.

    With an older low contrast lens, EI 100 is no problem at all in normal contrast.
     
  5. jmcd

    jmcd Member

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    If it is Arista Edu Ultra, I get an ei of 80 also with this film in normal and even a bit more contrasty light. This holds true even with Rodinal. I do not get much of a speed boost with Xtol with this film, though it looks great. (I think there was another film in the past called simpy Arista Edu.) The film slows down quite a bit with exposures longer than 1/2 second.
     
  6. Rick A

    Rick A Subscriber

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    I shoot it at EI 50 if I plan on developing in Rodinol and full box speed in Pyrocat-HD and D-76. I especially like it in Pyro. I should add, these speeds are for daylight, I use half those speeds for tungsten lighting.
     
  7. ntenny

    ntenny Member

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    Arista .EDU Ultra is Fomapan (my recent rolls have actually said so on the film edge!), which a lot of people seem to downrate. I've had good luck with it at EI 50, with a slight reduction in development time compared to box speed (for me, 8:30 in PC-TEA 1+50, which usually takes the same times as Xtol 1+2).

    I'm not sure, but I think the earlier Arista .EDU films (no "Ultra") were Fortepan---if that's the film you're asking about, disregard everything I said above.

    -NT
     
  8. Adrian Twiss

    Adrian Twiss Member

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    I shoot it at EI 50 and develop for 11 minutes in Pyrocat HD. My personal experience is that it is somewhat fussy about water quality. My first batch were ruined because I mixed the working solution with tap water. Whilst the water is not particularly hard where I live I am not convinced about its quality (it tastes slightly unpleasant). I had no such problems when mixing the working solution in distilled water.

    According to Foma's own data reciprocity characteristics are not great. I find I have to make adjustments with exposures of 1 second and more. Combining the low EI I shoot at with small apertures (around f16-f32) and northern European light means I am adjusting more often than not.
     
  9. Terry Christian

    Terry Christian Subscriber

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    From what I've researched and read here and elsewhere:
    Arista.EDU Ultra = Fomapan
    Arista Premium = Tri-X
    Arista Professional = HP5+

    But I could be wrong! :D
     
  10. Ian Grant

    Ian Grant Subscriber

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    I tested Foma 100 and needed 50EI and a big reduction in dev time to tame the contrast. That was 4 or 5 years ago and since then I've had great results from the film.

    Ian
     
  11. Mainecoonmaniac

    Mainecoonmaniac Subscriber

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    You're letting the cat out of the bag!

    Remember the old Arista film? It was Ilford. Ahh miss those days.
     
  12. cmacd123

    cmacd123 Subscriber

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    Arista II the next generation was Agfa APX (turned out to be a short Generation)
    Arista.EDU was Forte.

    Legacy Pro was Fuji

    The HP5 was also called Just "English Professional" before the ARISTA name was invented.

    A couple of the paper were different, I think Arista II paper was Kentmere
     
  13. ic-racer

    ic-racer Member

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    Its easier to do this than ask on line. Expose half a sheet to a uniform target at 100 or 80 or whatever in your camera (darkslide half in). Process the negative. Place the clear part of the negative over your meter and note the reading. Slide the exposed part over the meter; if the meter reading drop by one-third, you EI guess should yield acceptable negatives in most situations.
     
  14. rjbuzzclick

    rjbuzzclick Member

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    I've had good results exposing it at 50 and developing in HC-110 using the times for 100 but shaving off about 10% because I use a water stop bath and to tame the highlights.