ASA Rating of Color Neg Daylight Balanced Film Under Tungsten Lighting & 80A Filter

Discussion in 'Color: Film, Paper, and Chemistry' started by Andre Noble, Sep 2, 2010.

  1. Andre Noble

    Andre Noble Member

    Dec 29, 2004
    Beverly Hill
    Medium Format

    I shot a portrait using some Fuji 800 color neg film (which I rated at 640) last weekend under house hold tungsten lighting using an incident meter to measure the light. I used no filter over lens. The developed film came out at least one stop underexposed, also very orange which was impossible to correct the in Photoshop even after a quality scan of the film and digital manipulations in levels and curves.

    So I decided to brush up on shooting under tungsten in order to better expose the negative film, and use color conversion filters to get the color closer to something correctable in Photoshop.

    I learned:

    1) Shooting under tungsten one most cut rated film speed by at least one stop even with no filter over lens.
    2) If shooting with an 80A filter (to balance the tungsten lighting to daylight film), filter factor is +2 stops.
    3) Adequately exposing the film by rating the film down rating the ASA by one or two stops may obviate the need to use a color conversion filter as adequately exposed film is easier to correct after scanning in Photoshop.

    I would like to shoot under household tungsten lighting conditions with balanced fill flash strobe and gel (to convert daylight strobe to tungsten warmth light) with an 80A filter over lens to balance light back to dalight balanced Fuji 800 color negative film.

    I need to adequately expose this film this time around and also get the color closer to daylight.

    Question: Assuming all light readings will be taken with a handheld dome incident meter (and NOT TTL) and using a +2 stop 80A color conversion filter over the lens:

    Do I cut the Fuji 800 color negative film rating one stop to ASA 400 right off the bat because I will be shooting under tungsten light, and THEN cut it two additional stops (for the 80A filter factor) for a final rated ASA of 100?

    Or do I cut the Fuji 800 color negative film just 2 stops (due to the 80A filter factor) for a final ASA of 200?

    Appreciate the feedback, especially from professionals or advanced amateur shooters experienced shooting under tungsten conditions.