B&w slide tried and true process

B&w slide tried and true process

  1. Alessandro Serrao

    Alessandro Serrao Member

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    Alessandro Serrao submitted a new resource:

    B&w slide tried and true process - B&w slide tried and true process

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    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 6, 2016
  2. Ian Grant

    Ian Grant Subscriber

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    Could you explain all the EDTA, it seems excessive and should be totally unnecessary.
     
  3. Alessandro Serrao

    Alessandro Serrao Member

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    I live in a very hard water area.
    The parameters are:

    pH 7,5
    conductivity 546us/cm
    Ca 98 mg/l
    Hardness 32 °F
    Cl 6,5 mg/l

    so it's logical, at least for me, using a wash water with the EDTA as the sequestring agent for the Ca.
    This allows me to save the distilled water for mixing the chemicals only.
     
  4. Ian Grant

    Ian Grant Subscriber

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    Save your money and buy a cheap water filter, usually used to filter the Ca out of water to stop kettles furring up.
     
  5. Alessandro Serrao

    Alessandro Serrao Member

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    The Brita type of filters?
     
  6. Ian Grant

    Ian Grant Subscriber

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    Yes or similar, I have one just for photo use.
     
  7. Alessandro Serrao

    Alessandro Serrao Member

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    It's cheaper the EDTA here in Italy.
     
  8. davido

    davido Subscriber

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    First developer question

    hello Alessandro
    I am not familiar with Tetenal Eukobrom here in Canada. Have you ever used Ilford PQ Universal (as per the ILford recipe) in your reversal process? I am asking because your initial developer appears quite dilute in comparison to ILford's recipe. I have tried ILford's reversal process previously without much success BUT want to try again using specifically your bleach recipe and instructions. Do you know if the Ilford developer instructions and recipe will produce the desired original negative or will perhaps the density be too high?
    thanks
    david drake
     
  9. Alessandro Serrao

    Alessandro Serrao Member

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    I'm not familiar with the PQ developer by Ilford but all I have done is follow the diluition rate on the bottle of the Eukobrom so I guess you could do the same with the PQ bottle as a starting point...
    Consider only the paper diluition...

    Rate the film it's nominal speed. It's very important to use all solutions at the very same temperature and use the permanganate instantly after mixed.
    Also is important to use distilled water for mixing the bleach.

    Use tap water (with the EDTA if hard) only for the intermediate washings.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Apr 24, 2007
  10. davido

    davido Subscriber

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    Alessandro, I realized that I incorrectly read your recipe. I assumed that the 42ml. of developer was working strength but it is really syrup from the bottle? If the 42ml. is syrup then the total volume of 250 ml. of developer (with hypo added) is a 1+5 dilution. In this way, the developer is the same strength as the Ilford recipe.
    However, I am still confused as to the hypo ammount. A 2% hypo solution would be 2g/litre and so 250 ml. would have .5 g? I'm not sure how you get 2.5 g/250 ml.?
    The Ilford recipe calls for 3g/250 ml.

    thanks
    david
     
  11. Alessandro Serrao

    Alessandro Serrao Member

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    Yes,
    42 ml is the Eukobrom concentrate.

    A 2% solution is 20g of solute in 1000g of solution. The proportion is like this:

    g solute : g solution = x : 100

    We are not considering the fact that 1l of solution is circa 1000g of water + 20g of hypo, that is 1020g total. For simplicity's sake we round it to 1000g.

    Taking 125ml of a 2% solution is the same as taking roughly 2,5g of that solute.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: May 1, 2007
  12. Alessandro Serrao

    Alessandro Serrao Member

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  13. davido

    davido Subscriber

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    getting close ( I think)

    Hello
    I made another attempt at reversal processing yesterday and I'm getting closer.
    After following Allesandro's instructions re: bleaching, I ended up with NO IMAGES again BUT at least there were dark borders, which is much better than the first time.
    I would like to narrow down where I went wrong. here are a few guesses:

    1) over agitating the bleach? (continuous inverting back and forth for 5 minutes)
    2) not enough second exposure (10 cm under flourescent bulb under water on spiral reel and in patterson developing tank)
    3) didn't use hardner in fix.

    The dark border along the sprocket holes was dark but not fully black which leads me to believe that the film was not exposed long enough for the second exposure or it was over bleached and, therefore, there was nothing left to re-expose?
    thanks
    david
     
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  15. kb244

    kb244 Member

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    Out of curiosity what makes this better than a controllable contact transfer onto another strip of film?
     
  16. davido

    davido Subscriber

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    Any dupe will not have the quality of an original. there is detail lost in the highlights and shadows. a well exposed and processsed B&W transparency is wonderous to behold.
    david
     
  17. Alessandro Serrao

    Alessandro Serrao Member

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    davido: can you please scan a frame from your last attempt and post it here?
     
  18. Alessandro Serrao

    Alessandro Serrao Member

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    You can try this.
    Pick up a scrap of film leader fully exposed to light and run it trough the same process you've used the last time.

    See how this scrap turns out...
     
  19. Alessandro Serrao

    Alessandro Serrao Member

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    Recently I've been experimenting using directly a 250mg potassium permanganate tablet, bought from my local pharmacy, as a bleach, acidified as usual.

    This way is much more simpler: no need to stock concentrates, I diluite ONE tablet per 250ml immediately before using the bleach, so to have maximum consistency from run to run.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: May 30, 2007
  20. Mike Wilde

    Mike Wilde Member

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    another path to B&W slides option

    if you can filnd it ( it I understand is still being made - for B&W cinema ) Eastman 5302 is just the ticket. I found a 100' can at a camera show on the weekend, for $5, but researching, it is now too much more than $20 new.

    I am planning to use it for unsharp masking stock, and for that it works great. It is ortho, and I just contact print it with the negative under the light of the enlarger. If I put it emulsion to emulsion, and with no local duffuser I would have a slide. As it is I go non-emusion to non-emulsion, and have a sheet of tracing paper on top to make the unsharp mask.

    It develops in the same print developer that I have open that made me want to make the USM in the printing session in the first place. It can also be developed in d-76 or lith develper to get different resuts.

    Prior to this when I wanted to USM, I would do it on Kodalith, and then pour out a very low activity developer it its own tray, then toss it because it oxidises easily.
     
  21. Alessandro Serrao

    Alessandro Serrao Member

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    Unfortunately I haven't any enlarger (I used to have it).
    Here in Italy the film you claim is available only in very large quantities (like a box of 20 100 feet cans) and surely doesn't cost anything like $20.

    However thanks for your suggestion, it seems very interesting.
     
  22. pmoshay

    pmoshay Subscriber

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    I have the formula from Darkroom Techniques a few years back that is wonderful with TMax100 and TMax400 film stock. It is quick to mix from easily obtained chemicals. Email me for the formula. pmoshay at dslextreme dot com.
    Paul
     
  23. Discpad

    Discpad Member

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    E-K or PF Substitute for Eukobrom?

    Anybody have a Kodak, Photographer's Formulary, or homebrew substitute for Tetenal Eukobrom?

     
  24. Ian Grant

    Ian Grant Subscriber

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    Ilford PQ Universal or Champion Suprol are ideal first developers.
     
  25. Discpad

    Discpad Member

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    Ahh, it's a *paper* developer!
     
  26. Robbedoes

    Robbedoes Member

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    II° exposure:

    ...at the distance of 10 cm from a fluorescent bulb exposing for 1 minute each side of the spiral, mantaining it on the tank full of pure distilled water...

    Each side: bottom and top side?

    Mantaining it on the tank: how to expose it then? A transparent tank?