Broken timer in Chromegatrol

Discussion in 'Enlarging' started by L Gebhardt, Sep 11, 2005.

  1. L Gebhardt

    L Gebhardt Subscriber

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    I have an Omega D5 with Chromega head. Last night it seems that the timer broke in the Chromegatrol. Anything set over 10 seconds and it won't shut off. Shorter times don't seem to be accurate either, but I haven't tested this.

    Does anyone know of a reasonably priced place to get it fixed?

    I am also wondering if it might not be better to get a separate power supply and timer. Any opinions?

    The Chromegatrol that I have is the older style one with two knobs and a 10/1 switch. I am not really that fond of the timer part of it. Plus I do not have foot switch, so I see lots of room for upgrading, but of course I don't want to spend a lot of cash.
     
  2. John Cook

    John Cook Member

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    Both of my Chromegatrols bit the dust around 1995. I sent them back to the factory (somewhere around NYC). Don't know if they are still in business.

    My choices at the time were to spend around a hundred dollars each to have the defective electrical component replaced, or spend considerably more to have the entire circuit board replaced. They would not guarantee their work unless I chose the latter.

    In the meantime while the units were being repaired, I switched back to the Omega condenser head and bought a simple Graylab timer. When the Chromegatrols came back, I never re-installed them.

    Guess I just prefer the simple life...

    Back to your specific problem, I would advise giving Harry a call for his advice:

    http://www.classic-enlargers.com/
     
  3. eumenius

    eumenius Member

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    That's definitely the gate thyristor that failed... maybe it's possible to find an electronics guy to see what part should be replaced. There's no need to send it to factory - the thyristors can be replaced with any other models with the same rating. But the separate supply and timer would be better, though :smile:
     
  4. L Gebhardt

    L Gebhardt Subscriber

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    eumenius, that sounds like good news. Do you happen to know how to identify the gate thyristor? I could probably solder a new one in if I could find it (and the replacement).