btz type tube developing

Discussion in 'B&W: Film, Paper, Chemistry' started by weezahan, May 14, 2005.

  1. weezahan

    weezahan Member

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    I am returning to shooting 8x10 b&w sheet film in tubes. Since I have not processed with this method in years I am looking for advise regarding the currently best developers, times tables, and any other advise based on practical use that you can offer. The darkroom is long gone, so I am limited to this approach. I am looking for outstanding results. All finished negs will be contact printed.
    Thanks to whomever replys
    Charles
     
  2. doughowk

    doughowk Subscriber

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    I created developing tubes useing grey electrical conduit pipe (4") with screw type connectors between the two parts - smaller section for chemistry. This was before J&C Photo came out with their tubes, which I would have considered. I place a tube in a sling hanging above a motorized base, then develop, fix, etc. normal times. I use rodinal 1:50 (see Massive developer chart for times per film) & TF-4 fixer (210 secs).
     
  3. John Bartley

    John Bartley Member

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    I (like Doug) also use the Massive Developing Chart for guidance of times/concentration. I gather from your post that your request has to do more with film/developer times than with the mechanics of making tubes however, if you are about to make your own, here's a very basic tutorial for tubes for 4x5 size - a bit of calculation will correct for 8x10 :

    http://oldradio.ca:83/Photo/Tech/Tubes/FilmDevTube.html (website only up daytime)

    Like Doug, I also made my own. I don't think that there was a lot of economy in making my own, having seen how little J&C charges for ready-made tubes, but there was an incomparable amount of satisfaction :smile:.

    Note : I roll my own in a tub of water and because I use divided D23, I don't worry a lot about temperature. The one drawback to hand rolling is that I can only do a couple at a time. I only shoot a couple of negatives at a time, so it's not a big deal.

    cheers
     
  4. Donald Miller

    Donald Miller Member

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    I use Pyrocat with Efke PL 100 using minimal agitation (semi stand). This gives me a nice sharp negative. Some have reported mottling in even non textured regions such as skies using minimal agitation. I have not noticed that in my experience.
     
  5. noseoil

    noseoil Member

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    Charles, Don is correct in saying that Efke 100 is a great film to use. There is ample information in Michael & Paula's web site about film, developers and methods.

    http://www.michaelandpaula.com/mp/index_skip.html

    Look at the Azo forum and start reading.

    Basically, I'm using Efke 100 (J&C), Pyrocat HD (Photographer's Formulary) and Azo paper (M&P). As many have found, this is as good as it gets. Best, tim