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Discussion in 'B&W: Film, Paper, Chemistry' started by Alessandro Serrao, Dec 22, 2012.
What kind of adhesive tape is recommended to avoid electrostatic sparkes while bulk loading?
I use ordinary masking tape - the kind used by those painting a section of wood who do not want the paint to spread. Never found that to have generated sparks
I use Scotch tape, precut before I go dark. I stick the ends to the counter top in a row. I pluck them off as needed. I never get a tearoff in-camera as was the case with previous tapes. when ready to process, I cut the film from the casette to avoid problems.
I put the tape around the spool and tape each end to one side of the film to form a firm bond.
I've used both blue painters tape and scotch tape. The scotch take makes blue sparks, which is amusing but harmless.
24mm masking tape is the perfect width for 35mm film.
Black gaffer's tape.
A long enough strip to go all the way around the spool and attach to both sides.
Haven't seen it spark. It won't pull off and it's easy to tear in the dark.
Sorry, but not true. The blue "sparks" can cause marks and lines on film as you pull it away from the film or from anything nearby the film such as the original roll. That is why I cut mine.
Exactly PE. Right on.
That's what happened to me last night. I messed up with a pre-cut adhesive tape (I have a red 3M adhesive tape - core series 2 1300) right on the spool (both estremities of the tape decided to stick together at one point). When I tried to tear them apart: bang. A rather dim but discernable spark. With the 17mt bulk roll near! Hope I didn't ruined anything...
Interestingly enough, most tapes cause this problem, but with colored backing it is difficult to see, even in the dark.
Scotch tape and similar products show it quite well being transparent.
I use scotch tape as well, but since I use a bulk loader I don't really have to worry about sparks. I would rather watch tv and load film than to just load film in the dark. It is boring after all. I also reuse color cassettes, only once. Makes things go a lot faster.
I've always used electrical tape. Not sure about this sparking stuff. I always assume the end frame is a write-off anyway, so I roll mine to 37-38 frames and just stop shooting at 36. Never had a problem with my process.
I like seeing the sparks fly when taking off the tape on my 120 rolls. So far the sparks have only exposed the area right where the tape was attached...but then I live in a famp climate.
Sparks do indeed "fly". This is a property of most glues.
Scotch tape, never had a problem with it. Like PE I used to precut the tape, but then I pretaped the length to the left over leader from discarded lab cassettes, and then attach this onto a clean tabletop, or rail. Gives you a nice even line of tape to wrap around the film to be reloaded. Masking tape is a bit too thick for this.
I also cut my film off the spools, the only time I pull tape is to connect rolls of 120 for development, and then I only do it very very slowly and gently.
I just use masking tape, and like PE I make sure it adheres to both sides of the film. Seems to hold just fine, even on rolls that I've kept in the freezer a few years before actually shooting. I've never had the tape fail in-camera.
Since I often freeze filled cassettes I use freezer tape which works very well.
The very best tape is the one used by 1-hour photo labs to attach the film to the leader card in a roller process machine. Its expensive but very strong and it allows you to use the small extended section of film protruding from the felt of the used C-41 cassette, that way you now have a very large supply of cassettes to use and won't have to reuse a cassette too many times and risk scratches.
I always used masking tape (lik most others), but be careful not to use the low tack variety as this can come undone quite easily.
Beat me to it! When I managed a semi-pro lab, I ordered in an extra roll of tape every so often, as the price was discounted a further 10% when the orders were over $1500.
If you're on good terms with your local film processor, might be able to save some cash - I had a couple of customers who I sold a roll of "Splicing Tape" to, never a problem as I always had enough stock to cover a sudden influx of film for processing.
Great stuff - and yeah, it's as strong as; trying to get it apart off a film leader could sometimes be a strength exercise for the fingers. . . . . . .
Yes, plus if you are in a hurry when processing you can just snip it off and process with it attached, after all, thats what is was made for.
What is "freezer" tape?
It is a tape for securing and labeling frozen food packages. It is similar to paint masking tape.
Wait, I only use a dark bag so I've never SEEN myself spooling my film unto a developing reel, but at the end of a 120 is roll has tape on the backing paper, I always peel it off the film at the end of the roll. Do you think THAT tape would also create static sparks?
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Yes, it does. As does tearing the tape, which is what I do, but I've never *noticed* a fogging problem doing it.