C22

Discussion in 'Color: Film, Paper, and Chemistry' started by Curt, Aug 5, 2009.

  1. Curt

    Curt Subscriber

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    Does anyone remember doing Kodak C22 at home? I found a print I made from a kit I got at Freestyle back in the early to mid 70's, it brought back memories of emulsions when wet just sliding off when touched. I printed them on ? using ? bought from Freestyle too. The print has been kept in a print case and has not faded much as I can see. It seemed easy at the time, I used my, then condenser, Omega B600 with gel filters in the filter holder with the addition of a heat absorbing glass place above in the light chamber. I might have had a tool to get the filter pack but I'm not sure. I used Seal color mount tissue on archival board. I always wanted to do Dye Transfer but time ran out, by the time I was ready Kodak discontinued Matrix film, then went Super XX, then when I had given up J&C started selling a Matrix film. I was getting too old to start the process anyway then J&C disappeared so that's that's. I did a little Cibachrome which was fun.
     
  2. Mike Wilde

    Mike Wilde Member

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    I have read up on it in old dataguides, and wow, what a long process. Nothing in it that does not makes sense, and I always have hoped to find a stash of c-22 film to justifyu trying to recreate the process. On rec.photo.darkroom soem years ago Francis Miniter detailed how he processed a few of his deceaced dad's unprocessed C-22 rolls that way, and I recall being touched at how moving that would be.
     
  3. EASmithV

    EASmithV Member

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    I have a single, exposed roll of C22 film. Not enough to justify getting chem or sending it out imo. Could I put it through C-41 at reduced temp?
     
  4. Ian Grant

    Ian Grant Subscriber

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    I used C22 and also the Pavelle print process, but on a shoe string while at school, they were a real pain, as was the Ferrania reversal process. E3/E4 in comparison was really easy.

    Ian
     
  5. Ian Grant

    Ian Grant Subscriber

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    Some people have done that in the past, but it needs a pre-hardening bath, and the colours aren't perfect as the Colour Developing agent is different..

    Ian
     
  6. EASmithV

    EASmithV Member

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    Where do I get a pre-hardening bath?
     
  7. Ian Grant

    Ian Grant Subscriber

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    You have to look one up, they usually used Formalin/Formaldeyde solution, most processes prio to C41 used one. I do have some formulae but won't be able to get to them until tomorrow morning (12 hrs time approx).

    However as the film is 30+ years old it's going to be touch & go whether you'll get anything :D and the C41 dev really isn't ideal. I can give you a C22 formula if you have the chemicals

    Ian
     
  8. EASmithV

    EASmithV Member

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    I probably don't have the raw chems needed, and it's not worth getting for just 1 roll of found images. So c41 will in fact work, and I need a prehardener. What if I don't use a prehardener, it will just slough the emulsion?

    I do think however, that it would be nice to have the info on apug in case someone else needs it.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 10, 2009
  9. Ian Grant

    Ian Grant Subscriber

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    Possibly, depends what tempertaure you use and the dev may not be active enough at a low tempertaure.

    These are quite old emulsions and not as well hardened as modern B&W emulsions let alone C41 or E6, and a little depends on the exact age of your C22 film.

    There are labs who still process C22, they use the correct chemistry/process, but at a cost, if it's not important then just have a go.

    Ian
     
  10. Photo Engineer

    Photo Engineer Subscriber

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    C-41 uses CD-4 and C-22 used CD-3 + Benzyl Alcohol. I doubt if you would get usable color if you used even a prehardener and then C-41 with a C-22 film, but here goes.

    Prehardener for 75 F.

    Water 750 ml
    Sodium Sulfite 100 grams
    Sodium Carbonate 30 grams
    Formalin 37% 10 ml
    Water to 1 L, pH to 10.0 with Sodiium Hydroxide (10% solution)

    Use for about 5 minutes then wash for 5 minutes.

    Then use C-41 process.

    This may also require a ferricyanide bleach bath with clearing baths, as the C-22 films used 4 equivalent couplers and did not form all of the dye in the developer. It may also interfere with magenta imaging as the formalin can react with the magenta coupler.

    There is no easy fix for this.

    PE
     
  11. Ian Grant

    Ian Grant Subscriber

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    People used to, but whether you or I would say it was good is quite another matter, but back in the mid 70's people did process C22 films in low temperature C41 chemistry and got passable results. There were certainly magazine articles on doing it with images.

    Ian
     
  12. Photo Engineer

    Photo Engineer Subscriber

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    I've seen image stability tests on some of that Ian and it was pretty darn poor.

    IIRC, yellow contrast was down about 50% as well.

    PE
     
  13. EASmithV

    EASmithV Member

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    The film is a roll of Kodacolor X I found in an old folder I got at a junk shop, if that helps any in determining whether or not it would survive.
     
  14. srs5694

    srs5694 Member

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    You might do better to process it as B&W.