Carryover with drum development

Discussion in 'Darkroom Equipment' started by Deckled Edge, Jan 19, 2008.

  1. Deckled Edge

    Deckled Edge Member

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    After many years of tray development, I finally took the suggestions of many and tried drums. Gosh! My negs have never looked better--especially the 7x17s. I have done a half-dozen each in 3 formats, using 8x10, 11x14, and 16x20 drums. The results, on Efke PL 100 M, *look fine*.
    But wait. I used to fuss about carrying over 10 drops of one solution into the next 4 liter tray. Now I see 5 times that amount going into 1/60th solution, that no amount of shaking and gyration can remove from the drums. I foresaw that problem and follow each solution with a greater than recommended (> 2 oz. for 8x10; > 8 oz. for 16x20) distilled water rinse.
    My drums come with instructions for printing color, and I have read several "how to" posts here in the forums, but I have a nagging question.
    What should I be doing about time and volume (and ? number) of rinses between development steps to insure that these great looking negatives are, in fact, archivally processed, and don't stain, mottle, or crud up sometime down the road?
     
  2. Photo Engineer

    Photo Engineer Subscriber

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    That is why a stop bath is used. A prewet is recommended, and a tray wash for prints is suggested.

    PE
     
  3. Lopaka

    Lopaka Member

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    I run all my film on a JOBO and have had no problems. I do use a stop after the developer for B&W. If you are not using an acid fix, use plain water. One rinse of same volume as dev is enough. I do 4 water changes rinse on the machine after fixing (helps rinse out the funnel) then wash the film off the machine.

    When I do E-6 I use 4 water rinses after 1st dev then proceed through the other steps.

    Bob
     
  4. Photo Engineer

    Photo Engineer Subscriber

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    Well, due to carryover and drum design, the Jobo carries over a considerable amount more developer into the rinse and it allows development to continue. In addition, the final wash is less efficient. I remove prints to a holding tray and rewash them after a session. When doing film, I take the film off of the drum and wash it with a Jobo washer or something similar as per Jobo's instructions.

    However, you do what works for you.

    PE
     
  5. Deckled Edge

    Deckled Edge Member

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    I am actually using 2 2-minute prewashes, the first with double the recommended volume.
    I use Kodak Stop Bath after the HC 110 (b) development. Then I rinse with distilled water for 1 minute before the 2 minute fix with hardener (this is Efke, after all).
    Following 4 minutes in 1:4 Hypoclear, I wash negs (8x10 and 11x14) in a print washer for 1 hour. The 7x17s don't fit, so get 5 changes in a tray. Everything gets another rinse in a tray with PhotoFlow prior to hanging.
    This seems to me to be enough to qualify as archival, but I need to know if I'm missing a step, or 3.
     
  6. Photo Engineer

    Photo Engineer Subscriber

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    I use an 11x14 tray of still water to hold prints during a session, and then when I'm done, I then wash in running water with a tray siphon for the desired time.

    What you are doing seems overkill by using hypcolear and then washing for 1 hour. IDK. I have not tested the stability, but a 1 hour wash should be enough all by itself.

    PE
     
  7. Swift Raven

    Swift Raven Member

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    I use (2) 1 minute plain water rinses between the developer and fix. After the fix I again run (2) rinses as much to rinse out the drum & lift as to give the negs a preliminary wash. After that I remove the negatives from the 3010 drum and wash them in a tray. As for the archival quality, at 54 years old, I only want them to last another 20 years or so. After that I could give a rip.
     
  8. imazursky

    imazursky Member

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    I use a Phototherm rotary tube drum processor.
    It uses a water stop and the negs are great.
    No problems at all.