Chiba system

Discussion in 'Alternative Processes' started by MDR, Dec 15, 2011.

  1. MDR

    MDR Member

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    Has anyone on this site tried the Halvor Bjoerngaard's Chiba System (non toxic alternative to gum and carbon print) and if so how does it results compare to regular gum prints and carbon prints?

    Dominik
     
  2. musila

    musila Member

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    I'm sorry, but I can't help yet, but I just wanted to thank you for bring this to my attention. I'm always nervous when I use dichromate processes, for the health reasons. So once I run out of it, probably within the next month, I'll start experimenting with this.
     
  3. Cascam

    Cascam Member

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    Did you try yet?
     
  4. musila

    musila Member

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    I have, but I don't feel like I experimented with it enough to fairly comment on it. But I did notice the colors are truer to the actual watercolor pigments than gum prints, probably from the dichromate stain and unbleached gum I was using. I experimented with the direct gelatin variation. I made a glop more concentrated than I need (6-12% gel) and then I melt it, and dilute/mix (a portion at a time) with a AFC solution and coat it before it sets. Then expose it, and presoak it in a H2O2 solution before developing it with hot water, agitating like you would a carbon transfer print. I took a break from it because of the semester, but I'm going to start again later this week, after final exams. My impression is that the process would be nice for making 3 color prints (I'm hoping anyway).
     
  5. Cascam

    Cascam Member

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    hello Musila,

    sorry I'm not a native english reader, what is the AFC solution?

    Casper
     
  6. musila

    musila Member

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    It's Ammonium Ferric Citrate dissolved in water.
     
  7. NedL

    NedL Subscriber

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    I am currently trying to use AFC to make oil pigment prints, and will eventually try to make prints using what Bjoerngaard calls the "direct carbon" method in his Chiba System.

    I may possibly take a side journey ( w/ AFC ) into what Andrew O'Neill is doing if it looks like gelatin can be the basis for a gumoil-type print.

    I also started an APUG blog for notes about any progress. Please feel free to make any comments in the blog.
     
  8. Bob Carnie

    Bob Carnie Subscriber

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    Ned

    I downloaded the Chiba notes and read through them, quite frankly I did not understand the system, I am using pigment gum over palladium (as you know)
    and quite happy with my progress.

    I will follow with interest as you move forward.. maybe you will be able to explain the process much more clearly down the road.

    Bob
     
  9. NedL

    NedL Subscriber

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    Hi Bob, if it works I'll try to write a clear "how to".
     
  10. crumpet8

    crumpet8 Member

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    Any updates on this thread?
     
  11. NedL

    NedL Subscriber

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    If you mean the variation that I have been playing with, which is similar to a Rawlins' oil print, I am still making slow progress. Unfortunately, the blog to track progress disappeared when APUG moved to its new software.

    The two things that took a lot of time and testing were:
    • finding a kind of paper that works well
    The gelatin needs to adhere and not slide off or blister during long washes, and the characteristics of the paper also affect how well the AFC sensitizer works to make a good gelatin relief and if it is possible to clear the AFC. I've found that Strathmore 400 printmaking paper works.​
    • clearing the AFC from the gelatin
    I spent an awful lot of time trying different combinations and concentrations of sodium sulfite, citric acid, and tetra-sodium EDTA with different papers and never got perfect clearing. Then I got some di-sodium EDTA ( which is what Halvor Bjørngård used ), and it works very well.


     
  12. crumpet8

    crumpet8 Member

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    Thanks, I'm still researching but Im sure I'll get back to you with some follow up questions in the future :smile: