coating gampi paper for kallitype

Discussion in 'Alternative Processes' started by chrobry, Aug 2, 2007.

  1. chrobry

    chrobry Member

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    I am trying to work with japanese tissue paper Gampi for kallitypes. The paper seems wonderful as it is but makes a lot of problems. It is really hard to coat it, it soaks the sensitizer so quickly that it seems to me impossible to use the similar volume to what I use for Weston Diploma. It also gives quite high fog or does not clear well. I guess this is related to the coating problems it just takes too much sensitizer. I wonder if anyone of you had similar experinece with this types of paper or any other japanese tissue paper for kallitype, VDB or Pt/Pd and solved it somehow.

    thanks a lot,

    Jan
     
  2. Jim Noel

    Jim Noel Member

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    The paper needs sizing. The two most common are starch and gelatin. Search this web site and you will find plenty of suggestions.
     
  3. chrobry

    chrobry Member

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    Thank you Jim,

    regards,

    Jan
     
  4. z-man

    z-man Member

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    starch the collar please

    spray with spray starch

    iron paper as instructed on can with clothes iron

    will have to adjust process to match needs of paper as opposed to shirt

    vaya con dios
     
  5. boyooso

    boyooso Member

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    Did you have any luck?

    I too am having some issues with the paper being so thin that the emulsion goes right through it...

    Corey
     
  6. scootermm

    scootermm Subscriber

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    boyooso and chrobry
    I have done some pt/pd and some van dyke browns on japanese gampi paper.
    Through my experience (havent tried sizing the tissue) Ive noticed that I double the amount of chemistry I use to coat them.
    My working procedure, if memory serves, is this:
    I measure out the chemistry, say 1.5ml for an 8x10 sized print (usually Id use .8ml for an 8x10)
    Ill put a piece of paper underneath the tissue, say some cranes 90# cover... then quickly pour and coat the tissue with a brush, Ive found brushes like the richeson 9010 work best. The solution will soak through and get on the base sheet some, but if Im fast enough I can get the tissue coated adequately.

    when I processed the coated and exposed sheet I found using a piece of clear plexiglass and some magnets to adhere the print too helped a great deal, this kept me from having to touch the tissue during the whole process. As touching it in the slightest manner seemed to tear it, especially on sheets as big as 8x10.
     
  7. boyooso

    boyooso Member

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    Scootermm thanks for the response!

    I guess you use 2x the solution to allow for the soaking through to the underlying paper? Or was there another reason?

    Do you have any tips on getting the paper really flat after processing?

    Thanks Again,

    Corey
     
  8. scootermm

    scootermm Subscriber

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    Corey
    yes I use the larger quantity to compensate for the soak through.

    in regards to flattening. Use a dry mount press, and heat it up then turn off the press and leave the print in there over night nice and flat.
    If you dont have a dry mount press, use a tea pot and steam the finished print a bunch till its some what humidified, then lay it between to heavy book and stack a bunch more weight on top of it. Leave that overnight and hopefully youll have a flat print.
     
  9. boyooso

    boyooso Member

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    Scootermm,

    Ok, I did have success with a 4x5 image today, wow thanks! That worked well!

    My questions about flatness are more questions about creases in the paper. The paper seems to be quite buckled/wazy and in the past the press has introduced creases.... I also introduced creases while coating too, so we'll see.

    Thanks For the advice.

    Corey