Color from lith prints

Discussion in 'B&W: Film, Paper, Chemistry' started by Dan Henderson, Nov 19, 2008.

  1. Dan Henderson

    Dan Henderson Member

    Messages:
    1,890
    Joined:
    Feb 6, 2005
    Location:
    Blue Ridge,
    Shooter:
    4x5 Format
    I have been using Foma MG classic in Fotospeed LD20 to make lith prints, getting a nice salmony color. I recently purchased some Rollie (Maco?) developer, and with the same paper, can coax nothing more than a clay color. Has anyone had good luck getting brighter colors from this combination?
    Thanks,
    Dan
     
  2. Thomas Bertilsson

    Thomas Bertilsson Subscriber

    Messages:
    15,204
    Joined:
    Jan 21, 2003
    Location:
    Minnesota
    Shooter:
    Multi Format
    Hi Dan,

    I think the Rollei is the same as Maco Superlith, and I made prints that looked almost identical to what I got from Fotospeed, but if memory serves me right, it took slightly weaker solution, more exposure, and higher temperature (80*F) to get there.
    Now I use AristaLith (which is dirt cheap, $12 for a powder kit for a gallon each of A and B) and that takes even more coaxing to get the colors, but it's a lot of fun to play with.

    - Thomas
     
  3. ic-racer

    ic-racer Member

    Messages:
    7,470
    Joined:
    Feb 25, 2007
    Location:
    Midwest USA
    Shooter:
    Multi Format
    The nice color occurs because of pronounced under-development, so, as Thomas pointed out, try a more dilute solution. How many minutes before your image came up?
     
  4. Rich Ullsmith

    Rich Ullsmith Subscriber

    Messages:
    1,040
    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2007
    Shooter:
    Medium Format
    Dilute down, temperature up. If you aren't using healthy amounts of old brown, it is good to have a bottle of 10% KBr for seasoning.

    With weak, amber developer you can get pinks, greens and browns on the same print with this paper. And don't be discouraged with the clay colored prints, if you have enough density you can bleach and redevelop.