construction - wood metal bonding agent?

Discussion in 'Pinhole Photography' started by DmaalaM, May 25, 2014.

  1. DmaalaM

    DmaalaM Member

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    My first real pinhole project: I'm making a pinhole out of an old polaroid peel-a-part camera. The bellows had come apart and were useless so I discarded the whole front end and unneeded parts. I created a box out of wood that fit to the body and will be using screws/bolts to hold it firmly but what should I use as glue/cement between the wood and metal that would stick to both?? suggestions?
     
  2. NedL

    NedL Subscriber

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    Don't know but it sounds like a great project, have fun!
     
  3. Kawaiithulhu

    Kawaiithulhu Subscriber

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    If you're securing with screws and bolts it sounds more like you need a gasket material than adhesives. Maybe something that does a bit of both?

    Like black RTV silicone adhesive would be good for light blocking around the edge, plus provide some extra grip. Bonus points for it remaining flexible so it won't start stress cracks after it cures.
     
  4. hdeyong

    hdeyong Member

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    I agree. Black RTV sounds like the best stuff for the job.
     
  5. DmaalaM

    DmaalaM Member

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    That sounds perfect. I didn't think about those extra points you stated. Where can I purchase RTV silicon adhesive. Auto parts store?
     
  6. Truzi

    Truzi Subscriber

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    Yes, an auto parts store is a good place to get it. It will smell strongly until it is cured. I don't know if there is off-gassing that will affect your film, though.
     
  7. AgX

    AgX Member

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    Depending on area size/construction you could use polyvinylacetat/solvent cement (the standard household-cement over here) or rubber/solvent contact cement.

    Though I would use standard epoxy-2-component cement.
     
  8. bdial

    bdial Subscriber

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    Some good choices here, I'll add another one, a polyurethane glue works well for gluing dissimilar materials. The "Gorilla Glue" brand stuff is one common example. This type of glue requires some moisture to cure, so you'll need to slightly dampen one of the surfaces. Note that the stuff also foams as it cures, so apply sparingly. You can trim off the excess after it has cured.
     
  9. yurisrey

    yurisrey Member

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    +1.
     
  10. NedL

    NedL Subscriber

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    I was thinking about this post and I'd like to make a slightly different suggestion. I think you should jury-rig something with something simple first... maybe black felt as a gasket. Then use the camera for a few months and see how you like it. This will make it easier to change the "focal length" later if you decide to.

    I made a pinhole camera from a colorpack II and eventually I chopped off the front to make a shorter FL.
     
  11. fotch

    fotch Member

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    +2
     
  12. John Koehrer

    John Koehrer Subscriber

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    I'm not a fan of epoxies. They tend to get brittle when they're cured.
    Gorilla glue works well but I seem to get a residue on my delicate digits.
    Weather strip cement from the auto parts joint works very well. It's made to cement rubber to metal.
     
  13. AgX

    AgX Member

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    So far I have not seen them turning brittle. Of course in case one needs elasticity they are no good choice.

    Their Advantages

    -) high strength

    -) nice, smooth look

    -) Long time to work on

    -) low viscostiy when heated

    -) relativelely easy to clean off from non-wicking surfaces if still uncured


    Disadvantages:

    Toxic, allergenic (both issues not brought up in the beginning of their DIY-use)

    I'm in the process of changing my way of working: forced ventilation and gloves
     
  14. edcculus

    edcculus Member

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    how about some sort of thin double sided self adhesive foam? I'm sure you could find something like that at a craft store. Same idea as the felt, is that its removable if you decide to change the focal length.
     
  15. DmaalaM

    DmaalaM Member

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    There were a lot of answers to think about. This weekend I was able to use my gf's uncle's bench press and tools this holiday weekend when we went out of town. I was able drill the metal very nicely. And after checking the fit and a test exposure, I decided that it actually does a nice job baffling the light already. I was worried that light would seep in. So since its doing pretty well already and there isn't any true wood/glue solution, I decided not put any kind of glue. I'd rather not make things messier if I didn't have to. the fit is very snug, but since I'm anal, I'm going to thinly gaffer the inside. I appreciate all your input. Its probably better for me to just keep it simple
     
  16. Patrick Robert James

    Patrick Robert James Subscriber

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    Plasti-Dip (I think it is called) is great for sealing any light leaks you may have. I have used it myself on home made cameras and to seal pinholes in bellows.
     
  17. Rich Ullsmith

    Rich Ullsmith Subscriber

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    JB weld, any hardware or auto parts store. You can drill it, tap it, stress it, fill with it. It's opaque, too.

    In any event, this is good stuff to have in the tool box.
     
  18. JohnLikesPhotos

    JohnLikesPhotos Subscriber

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    just came across this thread. there's a great website where you list two things you want to glue together and it makes some suggestions. check it out: http://www.thistothat.com/