1.- ABC pyro (also known as Kodak D-1)is a well known and stable formula if you keep the part A, Part B and Part C separate. When you want to develop your film you mix the appropriate amounts of part A,part B,part C and water and use it inmmediately. I am posting both the traditional formula and the formula Edward Weston used. ABC Pyro (kodak D-1) Solution A Water 750 ml Sodium Bisulfite 9.8 grams Pyrogallic acid 60 grams Potassium Bormide 1.1 grams Cold water to make 1 liter. Solution B Water 1 liter Sodium Sulfite 105 grams Solution C Water 1 liter Sodium Carbonate, anhydrous 90 grams For tray development use 1:1:1:7 (which means 1 part of A, 1 part of B, 1 part of C and seven parts of water.) So for example if you want to make 1000 ml of developer you would mix 100 ml of A, 100 ml of B, 100 ml of C and 700 ml of water. Westons formula used in solution C Sodium Carbonate mono hydrated but you can use the anhydrous species also. (see post on conversion) Additionally he used different ratios for his formula, they are 3:1:1:30 (same as above 3 parts of A, 1 part of B, 1 part of C and 30 parts of water) You will need longer developing times if you decide to use this formula. All this information can be found at the Darkroom Cookbook written by Steve Anchell. If you wish to get the developer in a kit you can find it at photographers formulary. http://www.photoformulary.com/ or at Artcraft http://www.artcraftchemicals.com/ Azo paper is a Silver chloride paper wich is very slow thus needing a more powerful light source than an enlarger. It is designated by Kodak as a contatc printing paper because of this. To use it all you have to do is put a 300 watt bulb in your bathroom about 4 feet from the negative. turn light on and off and test your exposure times. Azo can be processed in all the paper developers you wish to use, but Amidol produces the best results. The process is exactly the same as developing any regular enlarging paper. for greater reference I have included the Kodak web page link. http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professiona...s/g10/g10.jhtml Azo paper can be bought in addtion to Smith's site at B&H, Adorama, etc. http://www.adorama.com/ http://www02.bhphotovideo.com/default.sph/...SID=EF4D8D7FDA0 Amidol is an excellent paper developer one of the best formulas is Looten's Amidol black. Water 750 ml Sodium sulfite anhydrous 24.5 grams Citric Acid 0.6 grams Amidol 8.1 grams Potassium Bromide 0.6 grams Again you can find ll these chemicals at photo formulary. This developer oxidizes rapidly and should be mixed before use. If you want balcker blacks you can add 0.3 grams of potassium thiocyanate. There really is not much difference as far as processing goes from what you been doing normally. The one only hurdle you might have is mixing the chemicals and storing them. I would recommend you buy the book by Anchell as it has many wonderful alternatives. Another way you might want to go is to use POP paper (printing out paper) sold by the Chicago Albumen works. http://www.albumenworks.com/ This paper you can just place the negative on top of it and judge your exposure by inspection, as the image appears on the paper as it is being exposed...pretty cool uh? With this paper you can change the tones by using different toners. I reccomend the book Coming into focus, edited by John Barnier. It has a very complete chapter on this paper and I think it will be a better choice for your situation. I hope this helped, if you have any more questions just post them and we will take care of them!