Cross process C-41 film stand developed in Rodinal (B&W chemistry)

Discussion in 'Alternative Processes' started by StoneNYC, Jan 22, 2013.

  1. StoneNYC

    StoneNYC Subscriber

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    I've got about 10-15 old Kodak Gold films from 200-800 speed, I know I will have to drop the speed by a stop because they are all old and haven't been kept well. But I figure they would be good to practice some stand developing with cross processing in B&W chemistry. I've only done this once in Ilfsol 3 and the images were very dark and hard to see even after scanning.

    There are various rules but I wanted to ask the experts.

    I've shot a roll of this a few years ago and processed normally and the images were really grainy and dull so I would prefer to use this as B&W but also would like to stand process it and I've read that Rodinal is perfect for this, and since its finally become available again I bought some and would love to try it on this x-process. However I have the following developers available if there is a better choice in order of preferred and available...

    Rodinal (Adonal)
    HC-110
    Ilfsol 3
    DD-X
    D-76

    Thanks for any advice on times and dilutions (like 1:50 for Rodinal or 1:200 etc) as well as shooting EI for a stronger image to cut through the thick orange base when scanning. ALSO as I said its old film but for consistency sake, let's assume its new C-41 film and I'll do any age compensation.

    Thanks!!


    ~Stone

    Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1, 5DmkII / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  2. StoneNYC

    StoneNYC Subscriber

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    bump
     
  3. jnanian

    jnanian Advertiser Advertiser

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  4. StoneNYC

    StoneNYC Subscriber

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    Well it's more I'm fairly sure you're supposed to over expose by like 1 or 2 stops, also what ratio of Rodinal to use to stand rather than worry about over developing, though I assume it's different than with regular B&W because of the difference in silver content in the C-41 film?

    So... that kind of info would help, but it's good to know the images would be blue, I did SOME x-process in Ilfsol 3 with C-41 it was HUGE grain and very dark, I didn't over expose long enough, but again I want to try stand development rather than just normal development.

    I think you sent the cafinol recipe but I haven't tried it yet. I will, but working on other things first. Thanks for the info so far.
     
  5. jnanian

    jnanian Advertiser Advertiser

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    hi stone

    i haven't done this yet but check out jim noel's post ( #29 )
    http://www.apug.org/forums/forum37/46256-commercial-coffenol-manufacturer-3.html

    25mins soaked in the coffee nothing but the coffee ( no vit c, no soda ) ..

    so ... if you make a pot of instant coffee, and don't add any of the other ingredients, it will process your color film too.
    jsut bracket your film, and have about 1/2 to burn ... it might work for your color in b/w xperiment.

    have fun !

    john
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 31, 2013
  6. Terry Christian

    Terry Christian Subscriber

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    A good ballpark to use when stand developing with Rodinal is 1:100 for 1 hr. at normal 20C/68F. Agitate normally at the beginning, and then a few slow agitations in the middle of the dev time. I haven't tried this with C-41 films, though, only B&W.
     
  7. StoneNYC

    StoneNYC Subscriber

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    Thanks! I'll try


    ~Stone

    Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1, 5DmkII / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  8. StoneNYC

    StoneNYC Subscriber

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    we have results!!!!

    Gold200-Rodinal100stand1hr-1.jpg Gold200-Rodinal100stand1hr-2.jpg Gold200-Rodinal100stand1hr-3.jpg Gold200-Rodinal100stand1hr-4.jpg Gold200-Rodinal100stand1hr-5.jpg Gold200-Rodinal100stand1hr-6.jpg Gold200-Rodinal100stand1hr-7.jpg Gold200-Rodinal100stand1hr-8.jpg Gold200-Rodinal100stand1hr-9.jpg Gold200-Rodinal100stand1hr-10.jpg Gold200-Rodinal100stand1hr-11.jpg Gold200-Rodinal100stand1hr-12.jpg

    The most interesting are the last 4. I decided after seeing jnanian's purple images he scanned in color, that I would scan two in color to see what came out. I didn't get ANYTHING close to the purple he did, however, what's REALLY interesting is that... and tell me if I'm wrong... the RED ribbon in the image looks .... RED... not super red, but it certainly seems to have a pinker/redder hue than the sled or the surrounding scenery. Is it possible that somehow the Rodinal I used had some kind of actual dye in it... I mean the rodinal itself is slightly pink... or some other way that the film though developed in B&W somehow still has a slight color tone to it?

    Anyway, Film is Kodak Gold 200 shot at EI50 (Because after research I read that it's a good idea to over expose by two stops, probably partially because of the dark base) and stand developed in Rodinal 1+100 for 1 hour as suggested by Terry Christian (Thanks Terry!!!)

    I was using a Zeiss Ikon Contina III so focus was done by eyeballing distance so only a few are spot on since I was shooting at about ... well I THINK it was 5.6, honestly I can't be sure as there's no arrow to where the correct aperture is supposed to be but I would assume center would be where it is (I really need to look up the manual haha) so the shutter was about 1/30 almost the whole time so between the hand held, small aperture, and slow speed, I'm shocked at what I got, but happy.

    What do you think?
     
  9. newcan1

    newcan1 Subscriber

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    Very nice results. I wonder how they would print on an enlarger?
     
  10. Terry Christian

    Terry Christian Subscriber

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    They look great, Stone! In fact, the tonality reminds me of chromogenic films like BW400CN and Ilford XP2 Super; now you know why we're always crowing about those films.
    They also look a tad bit overexposed, as if you could have used an EI of 50 instead if 100. Still, they should print nicely -- you certainly captured all the shadow detail.
    Great stuff!
     
  11. StoneNYC

    StoneNYC Subscriber

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    I think you mean 100 instead of 50? Lol and I don't think they are under exposed at all. Not for this process, I think that any less exposure and they would all look dark, the orange mask messes with the exposure level I think, not sure but I'm happy with the results. There were some lesser exposed from the lot but these seemed the best to me.

    Anyone have any thoughts on the red color?


    ~Stone

    Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1, 5DmkII / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  12. Terry Christian

    Terry Christian Subscriber

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    Yep, I indeed meant 100 instead of 50. I was typing that comment on my phone and got a little turned around!
     
  13. StoneNYC

    StoneNYC Subscriber

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    No worries I got it, I could try it, I have lots of kodak Gold left that I won't ever use for anything but testing, this was a fun experiment for sure. It also helps to have figured out that using the provided 35mm holder's for my scanner is NOT the way to go and just putting some ANR glass on top of them makes a huge difference in clarity and overall flatness of the image, 35mm film is SO curly... evil... haha
     
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  15. StoneNYC

    StoneNYC Subscriber

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    while looking for the manual for the camera, I've discovered the version I have is slightly incorrect as listed above, it's the ...

    Zeiss Ikon
    CONTINA Matic II and III

    However it seems the site for the PDF's is suspended so... wish me luck... I would really like to know if I was correct in my aperture settings as that's what I'm still not sure was completely correct.

    http://www.butkus.org/chinon/zeiss_...ic_ii_iii/zeiss_ikon_contina_matic_ii_iii.htm
     
  16. jnanian

    jnanian Advertiser Advertiser

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    hi stone

    i never scan anything i have in b+w, ALWAYS in color. the developer does funky stuff to the grains and
    film which gives the colors in the scan. i have some coffee processed b+w that when scanned look like
    autochromes ... not sure why but i don't questions electronics i just use them
    and enjoy the results.

    nice work by the way !
    john
     
  17. StoneNYC

    StoneNYC Subscriber

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    Thanks John.


    ~Stone

    Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1, 5DmkII / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  18. StoneNYC

    StoneNYC Subscriber

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    New Question ... these are 4 un-cropped images, scanned, does anyone know if the sprocket shadow is due to the old camera I'm using, or is this an effect of stand developing? (I've never used the Zeiss Ikon Contina Matic II before this test and never stand developed either).

    Thanks...

    KMax800-Rodinal100-2400010.jpg KMax800-Rodinal100-2400019.jpg KMax800-Rodinal100-2400021.jpg KMax800-Rodinal100-2400023.jpg
     
  19. Terry Christian

    Terry Christian Subscriber

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    It wouldn't be a result of your developing.

    Hold those negatives up to the light. Does each frame stop short of the sprocket holes, or are the frames so off-center that the sprockets are being intruded upon? Your negatives look as if the film is being loaded so off-center into the camera that it's not aligning correctly and making some of the image "overflow" to the sprockets. If so, check the alignment of the film gate in the camera and whether those film gates aren't bent somehow.
     
  20. StoneNYC

    StoneNYC Subscriber

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    I don't think there are film gates... haha, it's just an open hole, I guess it's just the camera haha
     
  21. jnanian

    jnanian Advertiser Advertiser

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    hi stone

    i get that sometimes too .... sometimes
    i think it is called bromide drag, maybe i am wrong, i don't know to be honest ..
    stand developing does weird stuff to film because the developer exhausts on the film
    and doesn't get agitated to wash off and replenish with new ...

    try processing your color-stuff with agitation and see if it still happens

    good to see you having fun!
     
  22. StoneNYC

    StoneNYC Subscriber

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    Yea I was wondering if it was bromide drag or if it was just the camera without having to shoot another roll and process it in C-41 since I will be doing my C-41 soon but not yet, and a HUGE batch of it that will take me 18 hours to get through, I want to basically exhaust the film chemistry in one shot to get my monies worth... this is why I dislike C-41, such a waste ... just like E-6 ... there's GOT to be a way to make it cheaper... it doesn't seem like the chemicals are THAT different from B&W that it should be so costly.... well ... I digress... thanks for the thought, I guess I'll just have to shoot a normal roll and develop it normally to find out for sure.
     
  23. case-ie

    case-ie Member

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    I,m going to throw a portra 160 asa in the tank with rodinal right now. Thank you.

    Kees.
     
  24. StoneNYC

    StoneNYC Subscriber

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    Cool, just remember, you need to have exposed it at 2 stops lower... so if it's 160, you should have shot it at EI 40 ... if you didn't, then you better leave it in longer than an hour....

    I have one sitting right now actually a gold 200 shot at EI 50 ... It's just about done! yay! I'll post my results if you post yours... remember scan as if it's B&W not color film...
     
  25. case-ie

    case-ie Member

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    To late, but they came out OK, The film came out of a baby rollei that refuses to function the shutter worked two times and than it stopped again, so I have two pictures, asa was set on 125 , The whole film still looks brown and I couldn't get it straight in the scanner -127 film- but this is it and I like it. No post proces

    FEP1704.jpg
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Apr 11, 2013
  26. NedL

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    I've got a bunch of gold 200 and superia in the fridge that probably will never get used... anyone ever tried to print through the orange with an enlarger? Hmm I wonder what different filters on the lens would do?

    Edit... actually now that I think about it, I wonder what the orange would do! I usually print on VC paper and the orange might block virtually all of the blue light. Probably end up with grade 00 prints....??