Cross processing...

Discussion in 'Color: Film, Paper, and Chemistry' started by Ara Ghajanian, Jul 19, 2005.

  1. Ara Ghajanian

    Ara Ghajanian Member

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    Hey all,
    I've heard a lot of people mention cross processing films, but I don't know anything about it. Can someone clue me in on this because I love how the results look and want to try it myself.

    While we're on the subject of processing... is there a lab that people send their film to that does excellent work and is still inexpensive? I'm paying $13 for E6 and $9 for C-41 process only at the local 'pro' lab.
    Ara
     
  2. gr82bart

    gr82bart Subscriber

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    Cross Processing.
    I've done it oth ways - E6 to C41 and C41 to E6. By far E6 to C41 is the best for me, since it produces the saturated contrasty images one associates with cross processing.

    One tip is that you have to over-expose your transparency by 2 stops before cross processing it. Another is that different films may react differently - that is Fuji Provia 100F may be different than Ektachrome 100G.

    As for labs, I know only of one in Boston that I have used a long time ago...
    http://www.spectrum-imaging.com/

    Others in Boston that I know of are:
    http://www.f-d.com/
    http://www.bostonphoto.com/

    I don't know any in RI.

    Art.
     
  3. Bighead

    Bighead Member

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    What he said, 2 stops minimum. I've also noticed that I get just as good of results from consumer brand E6, as the good stuff...
     
  4. Claire Senft

    Claire Senft Member

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    For me, the only cross processing I do is just after my spouse reams my ass.
     
  5. Bob Carnie

    Bob Carnie Subscriber

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    Once you cross process your neg slide film in c41 developer try this at the printing stage.

    two enlargers, one set up for the negative , second enlarger for flash,

    have two easels with identical blades so that when you flash the borders of the print stay white.

    print the negative with shawdows printing very cold , won't be hard because the balance will want to go that way.
    if the shawdows are green cyan, then flash a slight magenta red cast into the highlight areas. This will be helpful as this type of cross process is very contrasty to begin with so the flash will bring in the highlights and upper midtone.

    Basically you will have a print with complimentary colours in the shawdows and highlights.

    a very cool effect
    have fun
     
  6. blaze-on

    blaze-on Member

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    Hmmm...all this time I thought it was when you dressed your negs in barbie clothes...
     
  7. jd callow

    jd callow Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    I have cross processed countless (as in way over a thousand probably many thousands of) rolls of e6 film in c41 chems. I have tested every e6 film I could get my hands on, except Agfa's, and I have NEVER found an e6 film that required or benefitted by 2 stops of over exposure. Most films will require testing to find the best exposure as well as development and filtration.

    If you over expose it by 2-stops you will get a neg that stops light. If you over expose it by 2 stops and pull it 2 stops when you process it you'll get something interesting.

    If you over expose neg film 2-6 stops and process it in e6 chems you will get an interesting slide.


    FWIW
    The APUG Conference will have a crossprocessing WS that will include film testing.
     
  8. gr82bart

    gr82bart Subscriber

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    Hi John,

    I've never tried it without the 2 stop thing, but I haven't shot as many rolls as you have. When I first asked this same question (I think on Photo.net) that was the advice I was given and just followed it. Here's the link I was given.

    I'm going to give your way a try with some slides this weekend.

    Thanks, Art.
     
  9. mgphoto

    mgphoto Subscriber

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    I've never needed to overexpose E6 for processing but then again, I have done much less of that and more going the other way (Color Neg in E6 chemistry). In the case of processing color neg as a transparency, you will definitely need to over expose by 2 stops. In either event, there is an easy way to find out. Just find a lab that will do "snip tests". Just shoot your film at it's normal EI, have the lab run the snip, evaluate the snip frames, then push the rest of the roll if need be.

    -Mark
     
  10. jnanian

    jnanian Advertiser Advertiser

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    hi ara

    where are you taking your film ... abar ?
    there are a few other labs in the providence area you could try ...
    renaisance on the east side
    and in pawtucket there is imagemakers.

    in the boston area ... like art says, spectrum does really good work,
    but outside of boston there is zona ( somerville) dorian ( in arlington ) and there is someone in the schwab mills in arlington hieghts who does amazing work too, but i can't remember their name ... they are in a boston area yellow pages though under "photo finishers"

    i am sure any of the "out of town" places have a way to mail film to them ... but i don't know if you will be saving any money ...

    when you start using walmart or sams club you'll cringe a little, but it will be less than 1/2 what you are paying, way less ... ( $5 e6 and less than $4 c41)
     
  11. Ara Ghajanian

    Ara Ghajanian Member

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    John (jnanian),
    Thanks for the advice on the local labs. I've been going to Abar, but I think I'll try the others for the hell of it. Abar is just too damn expensive, plus their professionalism has gone down the drain.

    I know what you're saying about Walmart, etc. I started taking my C-41 to Ritz Camera and doing 'develop only' for $4.50 (half the price of Abar). Yeah, they're using rollers instead of dip and dunk, but I scan my negs and Digital Ice cleans up any scratches perfectly. Years ago, I used to work at a Ritz and they take their lab fairly seriously as opposed to a drug store or Walmart. Plus, I'd never give Walmart any of my hard-earned cash. I wonder if Ritz would do cross processing.
    Ara
     
  12. jnanian

    jnanian Advertiser Advertiser

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    yeah ara

    i only take things to abar if i am getting paid for it :smile:

    if you are getting prints, all the places mentioned in ri ( i haven't taken film to the boston labs in 6 years or so ) scan and light jet, so you loose information in your highlights. if you want wet-process "classic print" (black & white) from abar, it will cost you a fortune and it'll be on rc paper...

    -john