Cyanotype on Ceramic Tiles?

Discussion in 'Alternative Processes' started by km8891, Jun 30, 2009.

  1. km8891

    km8891 Member

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    I read somewhere that cyanotypes can be done on glazed ceramic tiles if you coat them with gelatin sizing first. Is this true?

    If so, what kind of gelatin sizing should I use?
     
  2. Photo Engineer

    Photo Engineer Subscriber

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    You not only need a gelatin sizing but you need a chrome alum hardener.

    I suggest the following:

    10 g 250 BI photo grade gelatin
    90 g Distilled Water at RT

    Mix and gradually raise to 40 deg C.

    Add 5 ml of 10% Chrome Alum solution.

    Add a suitable wetting agent if needed if tests show problems coating.

    Spread on clean, grease free tile at about 10 - 15 ml / foot square.

    Allow to cure for about 1 week.

    PE
     
  3. bobwysiwyg

    bobwysiwyg Subscriber

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    Has anyone a picture of one of these after doing it? I'd sure like to see one.
     
  4. km8891

    km8891 Member

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    Thanks!
    Is there a website that sells the Chrome Alum Hardener and the 250 BI Photo Grade Gelatin?
    I might need it done in less than a week... is there some way to speed the process?
     
  5. dwdmguy

    dwdmguy Member

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    This is VERY interesting to me.
    Can someone please refer me to the basics of this? What I mean is that I have never made my own "Mixes" such as the one your describing. I've always been a premix developer guy.
    As described above I wouldn't know where to start for example is this done in the darkroom when placing one's own emulsion on a "product"? So, a reference of how to start from scratch and where one would get such chems?
    Thank you much.
     
  6. Photo Engineer

    Photo Engineer Subscriber

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    I get mine at the Photographers Formulary, an APUG sponsor.

    PE
     
  7. JBrunner

    JBrunner Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    Hi Tom,

    Cyanotype is one of the emulsions that fall under the heading "Alternative Process". Alt process is typically contact printed from large format negatives using ultraviolet light. Other kinds of alt process are Platinum, Van Dyke, etc. Since the emulsions are coated on paper by hand, some times people get the idea to paint them on other surfaces, objects, etc. The results and success of such procedures varies. The formula being discussed here is a kind of "sizing" meant to help the cyanotype emulsion bind to the surface in question.

    A two solution kit for cyanotypes can be found at the Photographers Formulary website. It's the easiest and least hazardous of alt processes. It can be coated in subdued tungsten light, and is developed with water and a hint of peroxide. The instructions are in the kit.

    You need a big negative, the kit, paper or receptor that is good for the process, a piece of glass or a contact frame to hold the neg against the paper/receptor, and the sun. The resultant image is blue, but can be bleached and toned. I have an article on that here:

    http://www.apug.org/forums/forum216/51464-toning-cyanotype-when-you-dont-want-blues.html
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 30, 2009
  8. km8891

    km8891 Member

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    Another question:
    Would I need the Gelatin Sizing and Chrome Alum if I wanted to cyanotype on a ceramic tile that was only fired once (bisqueware)?
     
  9. Photo Engineer

    Photo Engineer Subscriber

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    IDK, but probably.

    Sorry.

    PE