Dageurreuxtype with Rolleiflex?

Discussion in 'Alternative Processes' started by Hamster, Aug 7, 2009.

  1. Hamster

    Hamster Member

    Messages:
    202
    Joined:
    Jan 5, 2006
    Shooter:
    Med. Format Pan
    I am interested in making Dageurreuxtype, so am starting to gather the nesscessary chemicals, frames, silver sheets etc...

    It is intended to be a long term project, so will probably take me a few years before I have the first results.

    I have a rolleiflex with Plate back, has anyone had any success in using the rollei in producing dags? Am I completely barking up the wrong tree?
     
  2. archphoto

    archphoto Member

    Messages:
    1,066
    Joined:
    Dec 14, 2008
    Location:
    Holland and
    Shooter:
    4x5 Format
    My main question would be: fits the plate you intend to use (thickness) into the holder.

    The other thing I can think of is that the Rolleiflex gives you very sharp pic's, not like the ones in the early day's of photography, so you will need a softar filter-lens.
    Otherwise is the Rolleiflex just a camera with a lens and a shutter, so give it a try !

    Peter
     
  3. Jerevan

    Jerevan Subscriber

    Messages:
    2,031
    Joined:
    Nov 19, 2004
    Location:
    Sweden/Germany
    Shooter:
    35mm
    The plate holder for the Rollei can be used either for film or glass plates. If you can use glassplates in a holder, it is possible to make Daguerreotypes. The dags would be very small and gemlike. A first try might be to make paper negatives with the plate holder to get a bit further along the way towards the real thing, while picking up the skills and material. Another would be to use glassplates with liquid emulsion.
     
  4. Captain_joe6

    Captain_joe6 Member

    Messages:
    194
    Joined:
    Mar 3, 2007
    Location:
    Portland, OR
    Shooter:
    8x10 Format
    I can vouch for the effectiveness of using liquid emulsion on glass and using it in-camera. Rocklamd's liquid light works well, but their tintype emulsion works even better.
     
  5. John Koehrer

    John Koehrer Subscriber

    Messages:
    6,377
    Joined:
    Apr 3, 2004
    Location:
    Montgomery,
    Shooter:
    Multi Format
    Two things.
    1) Many dags were very sharp and you don't need to soften them.
    2) Most were also on the small side, Large was the exception.
     
  6. Hamster

    Hamster Member

    Messages:
    202
    Joined:
    Jan 5, 2006
    Shooter:
    Med. Format Pan
    Proposed roadmap?

    Thanks for all the input, it is getting a bit more encouraging.

    I have been wanting to do dags for a while now, to me it embodies everything that is precious in analog photography. A photograph that is jewel like. I even took out a very technical book from the library to find out more from the process.

    What would you proposed to be a sensible "roadmap" of skills I should acquire before I expose my first polished and fumed silverplate? Shall I attempt tintype, wet collidal or ambrotype first? Wet emulsion? Toning? Case making skills?

    I have time so I can take slowly, I am hoping for a first attempt in 5 years or so. I have university level engineering and chemistry skills. I also worked in film based printing factory prepress and photomicrography professionally so hopefully I have the basics already.

    The main thing is having a safe and isolated place to do the work, and that would probably come with time.
     
  7. Jerevan

    Jerevan Subscriber

    Messages:
    2,031
    Joined:
    Nov 19, 2004
    Location:
    Sweden/Germany
    Shooter:
    35mm
    I think John Barniers book Coming into Focus will provide you with some more ideas concerning dags and other early processes.
     
  8. amilne

    amilne Member

    Messages:
    4
    Joined:
    Jan 7, 2007
    Location:
    Boston
    Shooter:
    Large Format
    An interesting idea...
     
  9. Marco B

    Marco B Member

    Messages:
    2,981
    Joined:
    Jan 13, 2005
    Location:
    The Netherla
    Shooter:
    Multi Format
    It's a bit off-topic, but since you show interest in Daguerreotype and other historical processes, you may find this document worth reading:

    "PHOTOGRAPHS FROM THE 19th CENTURY: A process identification guide" by William E.Leyshon

    There is a section about Daguerreotype as well. Although this book does not cover the actual making of historical process type photos, it does give lots of interesting (technical) info, for example, there are even some electron-microscopic images of a Daguerreotype. Since you have a technical background, it should be an interesting read.

    I put a link up to the freely downloadable PDF (from a university website) version of this book in the Books section of the APUG Web Links Portal here:

    http://www.apug.org/portal/?id_category=93

    Scroll down to see it listed.

    Marco
     
  10. Shinnya

    Shinnya Advertiser Advertiser

    Messages:
    567
    Joined:
    Mar 2, 2004
    Location:
    Philadelphia
    Shooter:
    Multi Format
    Hi,

    If you really want to make Daguerreotype, I would simply start with Daguerreotype. They are quite different from the rest of the processes that you will not gain much.

    There are few key points in making Daguerreotype as far as I understand:

    1) Quality of plating
    2) Polishing
    3) Getting chemistry (especially Bromine)

    We invited Takashi Arai for a demonstration this year, and I saw his entire process. Theses are key points in making successful plates and the most difficult parts to me. It is not easy to create the first acceptable plate but I am sure you will feel good if you make one.

    We are running a daguerreotype workshop with him this fall. It would be a great occasion to learn from someone who is doing it already.

    Warmly,
    Tsuyoshi

     
  11. BrianShaw

    BrianShaw Member

    Messages:
    6,658
    Joined:
    Nov 30, 2005
    Location:
    Los Angeles,
    Shooter:
    Multi Format
    I'd like to concur with both of these points, and mention that shallow DOF, moving-subject-with-long-exposure and/or poor focus control should not be confused with "soft focus". If you like soft images, especially portraits (like me), I'd say go ahead and use a softar, soft-focus lens, etc. but please don't forget the dag technology itself has excellent resolution and no grain until you get to the molecular level.

    Also, Thanks to Marco for reminding us of that link!
     
  12. wildbillbugman

    wildbillbugman Member

    Messages:
    819
    Joined:
    Apr 18, 2005
    Location:
    San Bernardi
    Shooter:
    8x10 Format
    Hello Tsuyoshi,
    I wonder if by a "Contemporary Approach" the instructer means a proces similar to the one taught at Photographer's Formulary. This process uses no mercury for development. Next to a real Dag, the best of these images look anemic.
    Bill
     
  13. Shinnya

    Shinnya Advertiser Advertiser

    Messages:
    567
    Joined:
    Mar 2, 2004
    Location:
    Philadelphia
    Shooter:
    Multi Format
    Hi Bill,

    Sorry for this late reply. I just notice this one.

    The workshop will cover both. Mercury is definitely something Takashi practices on a regular basis.

    Let me know if you have other questions.

    Warmly,
    Tsuyoshi