Developing HP5+ in D-76 1+1

Discussion in 'B&W: Film, Paper, Chemistry' started by lgrabun, Dec 30, 2008.

  1. lgrabun

    lgrabun Member

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    So the old abage "better is the enemy of good enough" holds once again.

    I've changed my old trusted Rodinal in which I used to develop HP5+ for D-76. Being a bit worried about excessive contrast, I diluted it one to one and develop the film - which, as far as I recall, exposed at 320, if it matters - for 11 minutes. The time was taken from the film box.

    I haven't made the prints yet but it looks to my unexperienced eye as the negative was lacking contrast, a bit underdeveloped. Is it the characterstics of diluted D-76 or the time was too short? DigitalTruth says I should have bathed the negative for 13 minutes.

    Once I've listened to what vendor says and it happened to be not the best idea.

    What are your experiences with 1+1 D-76 and HP5+?
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 30, 2008
  2. Uhner

    Uhner Member

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    What kind of agitation did you use?
     
  3. lgrabun

    lgrabun Member

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    10 second agitation every 30 seconds for the first three minutes, then 10 second agitation every minute.
     
  4. Keith Tapscott.

    Keith Tapscott. Member

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    I expose at E.I.400 and develop for 13 minutes, but the ISO and/or development should be adjusted if it doesn`t work for you.
     
  5. Uhner

    Uhner Member

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    Lack of agitation could be part of the problem. I have not used this film developer combination much, but I generally find that high speed films exposed with an EI close to box speed needs agitation every 30 seconds when developed in D76 in small tanks.
     
  6. edtbjon

    edtbjon Member

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    Ahh, I didn't have any HP5+ boxes left, but I had a look at the Ilfordphoto.com website and in the pdf on dev.times I can see the error. The times for ID11 and D76 differ. They shouldn't to that, as these two developers share the same receipe. Use the times for ID11 and you will be OK.
    (It's the same thing with Ilfotech HC and HC 110, which as far as I know are the same developers too. For some films the times are the same and for some films there's a difference.)

    //Björn
     
  7. Anscojohn

    Anscojohn Subscriber

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    Print the negs on your normal grade paper. If they are too flat, go to a higher grade paper for them. For later rolls, increasing development time by ca. 20% should increase neg contrast by about one grade of paper. Use ASA standard development of agitation five seconds each thirty seconds in a small tank.
     
  8. lgrabun

    lgrabun Member

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    Will give a try of your hints next time I have some HP5+ to develop. 10 second rotation every minute with R09 1+40 was right spot on.

    By the way, is a three reel tank still a small tank? ;-)

    @edtbjon: thanks for pointing this out. Will be more cautios with Ilford's datasheets.
     
  9. Uhner

    Uhner Member

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    Yes. :smile:
     
  10. lgrabun

    lgrabun Member

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    What is a big tank then? :smile:
     
  11. Ian Grant

    Ian Grant Subscriber

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    A Deep tank almost always used with full strength developer which is replenished.

    Ian
     
  12. msdemanche

    msdemanche Member

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    You have made a big jump with this switch. I find for more contrast i use the 30 seconds on, 30 seconds off method of agitation. This does give more contrast, but more than likely not what you are used to. I am curious, why the switch, other than availability?
    michel
     
  13. lgrabun

    lgrabun Member

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    Grain. On 135 R09 1+40 gives some visible grain, particularly on greater enlargements (18x24). Not that shun the grain (That is called grain. It is supposed to be there.), just sometimes I like the things more smooth :smile:
     
  14. fschifano

    fschifano Member

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    What Ian wrote. I've generally seen large or deep tanks referred to as being 1/2 gallon (2L) or greater.
     
  15. Herzeleid

    Herzeleid Member

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    I use ID-11 1+1 for HP5+, I rate at 250 ISO and develop for 11 min. 30 sec agitation first then three inversions per minute. I start the timer when I fill the tank with developer and I finish the timer when I fill the tank with stop bath. I find the results very satisfactory in terms of shadow detail, sharpness and grain appearance. I am willing to try 10 min., I like the idea to expose for shadows and develop for highlights. Your negatives might not look contrasty but you might get perfect prints in terms of highlight and shadow details.

    IMO, I wouldn't judge a negative buy it is appearance, but rather the print or the scan. The contrast might depend on the scene, a snowscape might seem very contrasty from the negative.
     
  16. MartinP

    MartinP Member

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    Using diluted ID11 for me meant that I had to give a little more agitation - a sort of double inversion rather than single, each half a minute. That made quite a difference and got back the contrast I was expecting.

    At work (a few years ago now) we had deep tanks with five litres of chemicals in each, all in a big sink/water-bath. It is that sort of system which is a "big tank". The development is done in darkness and the film is lifted out of the chemical for agitation purposes - a manual dip-and-dunk. I still think that is the best way to develop sheet film too.
     
  17. Rolleijoe

    Rolleijoe Member

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    When I shot HP5+, I always used D-76 straight (no dilution) for 6.5-7min, with constant agitation 1st minute, then 10sec every 30sec. Never had a problem until got a bad batch of film, and then dropped Ilford altogether.
     
  18. lgrabun

    lgrabun Member

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    True, true. I set up the darkroom yesterday and it turned out that negatives prints beautifuly on normal graded paper. All the prints are a tad contrasty in fact and I am willing to try a paper with a special gradation. Anyway, D-76 diluted one to one and HP5+ exposed at 320 developed for 11 minutes gives pleasant results. I am posting a scan of a negative, hope you don't mind.

    [​IMG]

    The details aren't as wonderfully rendered on a print though highlights are preserved. I will try a softer paper next time anyway.
     
  19. tac

    tac Member

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    I think your agitation was proper, I assume you're at 68F. You might try 75F.

    But Anscojohn is right; the proof is in the print; try printing the negatives before you mess with the film development.