After asking some questions on this site and experimenting, I hit on what seems a fool proof developing process. I shoot 4x5 Adox (Efke) 25 sheets. (The low ISO is because I use a pinhole camera and cannot control the time accurately enough for faster film and shorter exposure.) I bought BTZS Tubes and Tray (a set of tubes, the caps for which sit in the tray that holds a bath of water where the tubes are spun to agitate whle processing). I also cut out of thick fiberglass mesh (window screen) mats just larger than the film. I roll the film into the mesh then slide the mesh and film into the tubes. Then, using nothing but the caps for solution(and at 20 degree C): 5 minute water bath; 10 minutes D76 (mixed at 1 +3, though I know there are better developers); 5 minutes stop bath; 5 minutes high-speed fixer with hardener (Adox 25 is soft). I shut the lights off at each stage when transferring caps not because it's necessary after developer but because I apply solution only in the caps so the lights don't have to stay off for long and all I need to find in the dark is the next set of caps, which sit securely in the tray that came with the tubes. When the fixer is done, I remove the mesh and negative from the tray and rinse them both in running water (the only tray needed other than the main BTZS tray). I then hang the negatives to dry. Witout any talent or much experience this process yields every time properly developed, scratchless, streakless, blotchless, clean negatives. The only drawback to this process, as experienced photographers likely noted a paragraph ago, is that it is difficult to develop more than two negatives at a time. But for a casual hobbyist this is not a big deal, at least not to me, given the consistently good results, low chemical usage (2 oz per cap, though discarded after one use), and low space requirements. Hope this helps someone as other posts have helped me.