discontinued chemistry

Discussion in 'B&W: Film, Paper, Chemistry' started by TheFlyingCamera, Jul 24, 2009.

  1. TheFlyingCamera

    TheFlyingCamera Membership Council Council

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    The discontinued film thread got me thinking - what about the flip side, anyone have any favorite chemistry they miss?

    Ilford Cooltone paper developer

    Edwal TG-7 (great film developer).

    I suppose this is less an issue than film, because unlike film, if a chemical (paper developer or film developer) gets the axe, as long as the formula is known, it can be compounded at home. Still - list your deceased faves.
     
  2. Keith Tapscott.

    Keith Tapscott. Member

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    There is none that I personally miss, but developers such as May & Baker Promicrol and Agfa Atomal spring to mind. I am sure that there are many other unique developers for films and papers that are missed.
    Lamenting their demise though is a waste of time.
     
  3. BradS

    BradS Member

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    Patterson Aculux-2
     
  4. jnanian

    jnanian Advertiser Advertiser

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    GAF Universal Developer
    it was THE BEST!
     
  5. mikebarger

    mikebarger Subscriber

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    I've got a couple packs of Atomal in the darkroom somewhere. Seems like they were given to me, I've never used the stuff.

    Mike
     
  6. dynachrome

    dynachrome Member

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    I think the formula for FG-7 was changed over time. When it was sold in the brown glass bottles it lasted much longer. Atomal and Neofin Rot are two I haven't seen in a long time. I'm not sure whether Acu-1 is still sold. A long time ago I remember Polydol and Versatol. A developer I enjoyed experimenting with was Ethol Blue. In high school and college I used H&W Control. There was Clayton P60 (now F60). Some of the Neofin developers were sold under the Beseler name. At one time I used Ektaflo Type 1 paper developer. There was a developer called Autofine which was useful with some very grainy fast films. It has been many years since the Konica developers like Konicadol were available. Remember Harvey's 777 Panthermic developer? I think there is a new version being sold now. The Paterson developers like FX-39, Acutol and FX-50 were interesting.
     
  7. Neal

    Neal Subscriber

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    Perfection XR-1. I loved that stuff.

    Neal Wydra
     
  8. brofkand

    brofkand Member

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    Well I guess you could "technically" put Rodinal on the list.

    Although not really; there are a few Rodinal copies out there that pick up where they Agfa left off. By the way, what happened to Agfa? Did they go under or were they purchased and now slap their name on $20 DVD players like Polaroid?
     
  9. jeroldharter

    jeroldharter Member

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    I never used it but I wish I could try Kodak Polytoner.

    Ilfochrome is available but moribund and worthy of the list.
     
  10. Ian Grant

    Ian Grant Subscriber

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    Rodinal is still being made, by the same factory but now repackaged under different names.

    There's an issue with some of the former Agfa Trade Name which Agfa let lapse, a US distributor registered the Rodinal name and began selling Orwo/Calbe RO9 repackaged as Rodinal even the labelling was very similar and designed to deceive. (The company ceased trading).

    Ilford Hyfin is one developer I'd like to try, it had disappeared by the mid 70's, I have two cartons but the sachets of developer have deteriorated and oxidised. luckily I think I have found the formula

    The Johnson's Scale brand of chemistry has completely disappeared, it's possible that Paterson have the formulae but none are published, but they made very good products. Johnson's were the earliest UK supplier of Photographic chemistry, the family were Bullion dealers supplying Silver/Silver Nitrate as well as developing agents, one part of the family's company still exists Johnson Matthey although now known as Cooksons Precious Metals.

    Unfortunately a lot of interesting chemistry is being lost.

    Ian
     
  11. delphine

    delphine Member

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  12. ozphoto

    ozphoto Subscriber

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    Atomal FF. Have 5 packs in my darkroom. Just waiting to finish the D76 I mixed before I got my hands on this wonderful film developer!
    Miss it very much. :sad:
     
  13. CBG

    CBG Member

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    Richard Knoppow noted in www.nonmonotonic.net/Photochemistry/Richard Knoppow/Combination_Toners.pdf that combinations of Kodak Brown Toner and Kodak Rapid Selenium Toner could give results similar to Polytoner.
    One version Richard Knoppow posted elsewhere evidently derived from a “Modern Photography” magazine article - Dec, 1953 and was said to have originated at Kodak.

    "No.1
    Water 500.0 ml
    KBT 80.0 ml
    KRST 20.0 ml
    Sodium Carbonate, mono 40.0 grams
    Water to 1.0 liter

    Use full strength.

    The original article does not specify the hydration of the carbonate, however, I’ve (Knoppow) mixed it with monohydrated carbonate which worked well."

    More versions from Knoppow:

    "The following two formulas are from a Kodak booklet “Professional Printing with Kodak
    Photographic Materials” First Edition, 1953 printing, p.37
    Hue No.1 is described as “rich red-brown”, hue No.2 is described as “a warm brown.”

    Hue No. 1
    KRST 17.0 ml
    KBT 75.0 ml
    Kodalk 30.0 grams
    Water to 1.0 liter

    Use full strength
    To replenish add 30.0 ml of KRST 1:5 per each 10 8x10 prints toned.

    Hue No.2
    KRST 2.0 ml
    KBT 100.0 ml
    Kodalk 8.0 grams
    Water to 1.0 liter

    Use full strength
    To replenish add 30.0 ml of KRST 1:20 for each 10 8x10 prints toned.

    Hue 2 tends to reduce the image slightly so prints to be toned should be printed slightly darker
    than desired for the final image.

    Kodalk is Sodium Metaborate, octahydrate. Probably Sodium Carbonate would also work.
    These toners work very quickly, about 1 to 3 minutes for the magazine formula and Hue No.1
    and about 7 minutes for Hue No.2 at room temperature.

    After toning prints should be directly immersed in a 10% solution of Sodium Sulfite or stock
    strength Kodak Hypo Clearing Agent. This will act as a stop bath for the toner, preventing after
    toning and staining in the wash. About one minute is enough. RC prints should be washed for 4
    minutes. Single weight fiber prints should be washed for about 10 minutes, double weight fiber
    prints for about 20 minutes.

    This toner has a moderately strong odor of both Ammonia and of Hydrogen sulfide (rotten
    eggs) when working."

    All above from R. Knoppow 4 August 2005

    So, maybe you can try a workable alternative to Kodak Polytoner.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 25, 2009