drying marks with Tetenal processing?

Discussion in 'Color: Film, Paper, and Chemistry' started by unibonded, Jan 3, 2009.

  1. unibonded

    unibonded Member

    Messages:
    43
    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2008
    Location:
    sheffield, U
    Shooter:
    4x5 Format
    Hello folks,

    I have a slight problem and was wondering if anyone can help me?

    I've just processed 3 films with a Tetenal Colortec c41 kit. All fine but on closer inspection I've ended up with drying streaks all over all the films. The instructions don't mention any procedure at the the end of the developing – am I s'pose to wash the film in running water after the processing (as I would a BW film) or should the Stabilizer be the final step?

    Can I get rid of the streaks now, I was thinking washing again in running water and then using a wetting agent might fix it but any suggestions would be great.

    thanks
    Dav
     
  2. Tom Kershaw

    Tom Kershaw Subscriber

    Messages:
    2,949
    Joined:
    Jun 5, 2004
    Location:
    South Norfolk
    Shooter:
    Multi Format
    In my experience the stabilizer (Fujihunt X-Press C-41) should should be the final step. I prepare the stabilizer solution using de-ionized water.

    Tom.
     
  3. unibonded

    unibonded Member

    Messages:
    43
    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2008
    Location:
    sheffield, U
    Shooter:
    4x5 Format
    Thanks Tom, so once you've stabilized how do you dry them? Do you remove excess stabilizer with a squeegee or fingers, or just leave them to dry naturally?

    Dav
     
  4. Tom Kershaw

    Tom Kershaw Subscriber

    Messages:
    2,949
    Joined:
    Jun 5, 2004
    Location:
    South Norfolk
    Shooter:
    Multi Format
    I've tried both approaches, excess removal and leaving to dry. However, instinct suggests excess removal with care. I should note though that I'm drying the film in a heated film dryer which may alter the results compared to drying at 20ºC.

    Tom.
     
  5. tiberiustibz

    tiberiustibz Member

    Messages:
    1,749
    Joined:
    Oct 22, 2007
    Location:
    Tufts Univer
    Shooter:
    35mm
    The stabilizer from the tetenal kit uses only hexamine (a formaldehyde derivative or something like that) and contains no photo-flo water mark reducer. After using the stabilizer, dunk the rolls in a photo-flo solution. The alternative would be to use the kodak stabilizer for film.

    EDIT: on second thought why don't you add the photo-flo concentrate to the hexamine stabilizer. If you don't and use the photo flo after in a seperate step there will be no bacteriostat in the film when you're done.
     
  6. unibonded

    unibonded Member

    Messages:
    43
    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2008
    Location:
    sheffield, U
    Shooter:
    4x5 Format
    Thanks tom and tiberiustibz, that makes sense, I'll give the photo-flo idea a go.
     
  7. Photo Engineer

    Photo Engineer Subscriber

    Messages:
    26,635
    Joined:
    Apr 19, 2005
    Location:
    Rochester, NY
    Shooter:
    Multi Format
    Do not put the rolls in a photo flo solution after the stabilzer. It undoes the work of the stabilzer.

    I keep repeating this one guys!!!!!

    If necessary mix the photo flo into the stabilzer, but don't, whatever you do, wash off the stabilzer!

    PE
     
  8. unibonded

    unibonded Member

    Messages:
    43
    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2008
    Location:
    sheffield, U
    Shooter:
    4x5 Format
    For the 3 films I have a problem with - could I re-do the stabilizer step and add the photo flo to it?

    D
     
  9. Tom Kershaw

    Tom Kershaw Subscriber

    Messages:
    2,949
    Joined:
    Jun 5, 2004
    Location:
    South Norfolk
    Shooter:
    Multi Format
    With the Fujihunt kit I simply use the supplied stabilizer.

    Tom.
     
  10. rossawilson1

    rossawilson1 Member

    Messages:
    154
    Joined:
    Oct 16, 2008
    Location:
    salisbury, U
    Shooter:
    Multi Format
    I find mixing the stab with bottled water usually does the trick, I squeegee with my fingers, there are usually one or two drying marks but they never show up in the prints, scans are a different matter though.