Efke 25 development

Discussion in 'B&W: Film, Paper, Chemistry' started by tony lockerbie, Sep 30, 2007.

  1. tony lockerbie

    tony lockerbie Subscriber

    Messages:
    2,358
    Joined:
    Feb 16, 2006
    Location:
    Bega N.S.W.
    Shooter:
    Multi Format
    I have just purchased a 50 sheet box of Efke 25 in 5x4 and would appreciate some exposure and development info. I tried the massive dev. chart and it only lists 35mm and 120 times. Is the sheet film the same? Some people recommend using the film at iso 50. I will be using either ID11 1:1 or Rodinal so some idea of times/ exposure index would be greatly appreciated.
    Thanks,
    Tony.
     
  2. tac

    tac Member

    Messages:
    246
    Joined:
    Aug 12, 2007
    Location:
    Appalachia
    Shooter:
    Medium Format
    This from the Digitaltruth site for efke 25 4x5:

    Do NOT over-expose Efke Emulsions! This film is not recommended for pull processing. Treat the wet emulsion with extreme care. We recommend the use of hardener in the stop bath or fixer. Never use a stop-bath with a higher concentration than 2% -- in fact, we recommend the use of plain water in place of a stop bath. Efke sheet films are coated on a polyester base (175 microns plus coating). If exposed to film's regular speed of ISO 25, the following developing times apply: Kodak D76/ID-11 = 6 Minutes If ISO 25 film is exposed to ISO 50 for increased speed and optimum differentiation of highlights, the following developing times apply: Kodak D76/ID-11 = 8-9 minutes.
     
  3. titrisol

    titrisol Member

    Messages:
    1,671
    Joined:
    Aug 2, 2004
    Location:
    Rotterdam
    Shooter:
    Multi Format
    I would assume it to be similar to 120. I found it to work fine as 25 with rich shadow detail.

    IMHO Rodinal 1+100 for ~10 minutes works better since the contrast is very easy to blow. Grain is inexistent so ID11 1+1 or 1+3 could also be used to get times "manageable" .
     
  4. tony lockerbie

    tony lockerbie Subscriber

    Messages:
    2,358
    Joined:
    Feb 16, 2006
    Location:
    Bega N.S.W.
    Shooter:
    Multi Format
    Thank you kindly for that info. I think that I will try rodinal at 1:100 for starters.
    Tony
     
  5. Aurelien

    Aurelien Advertiser

    Messages:
    669
    Joined:
    Jun 25, 2006
    Location:
    Limoges, Fra
    Shooter:
    Med. Format RF
    You forget an essential information: temperature !!!
     
  6. P C Headland

    P C Headland Subscriber

    Messages:
    744
    Joined:
    Mar 24, 2005
    Location:
    Wellington,
    Shooter:
    Multi Format
    I shoot Efke 25 and 100 at box speed.

    I treat the sheet film the same as 120 film, assuming the same development technique. So, for inversion (5 inversions at the start of each minute for the first three minutes, then one inversion every three minutes thereafter) I develop in Rodinal 1+100 for 17 minutes at 20C

    For stand development, agitate gently for the first minute, then stand for one hour.

    For development in the Orbital processor (continuous agitation), I've used PC-TEA 1+50 for 8 minutes at 20C. My PC-TEA times are based on D76 1+1 so that could be a good guide for ID11.

    Water stop, then fix as usual.

    I have accidentally shot this at 100, at got excellent results - I just developed it a little longer (25 minutes in Rodinal 1+100 if I recall correctly).
     
  7. Tom Hoskinson

    Tom Hoskinson Member

    Messages:
    3,879
    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2004
    Location:
    Southern Cal
    Shooter:
    Multi Format
    Tony, I rate Efke 25 sheet film at an Effective Film Speed of 25 and develop it semi-stand in either Pyrocat-HD (or in Pyrocat M-C) diluted 1+1+100 for 16 minutes at 70F. I presoak for 2-5 minutes in 70F water.

    I rate and develop Efke 25 35mm and 120 rollfilm the same way.
     
  8. Jim Noel

    Jim Noel Member

    Messages:
    2,057
    Joined:
    Mar 6, 2005
    Shooter:
    Large Format
    I don't know where all the fear of scratching this film comes from. I use it in sizes from 4x5 to 7x17 and don't have a scratch yet. Careful handling is the answer. Yes, I sometimes develop in trays and at other times in a Jobo. I don't use a hardener.
     
  9. Rolleijoe

    Rolleijoe Member

    Messages:
    523
    Joined:
    Dec 16, 2004
    Location:
    S.E. Texas
    Shooter:
    Medium Format
    Over on Flickr Dorothy (aka luvdatrodinal) regularly shoots Efke 25 @ EI 12 in Rodinal 1:100 semi-stand for an hour. While I haven't loaded my 4x5 Efke 25 yet, I've been processing Rodinal 1:50 10-11min (depending on subject contrast) and have been very happy with the results.

    Stick with Rodinal and you can't go wrong!
     
  10. Fotohuis

    Fotohuis Restricted Access

    Messages:
    1,336
    Joined:
    Sep 6, 2004
    Location:
    Netherlands
    Shooter:
    Medium Format
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/42499129@N00/

    Yes, she's pretty well informed about Rodinal and stand development and pretty active in testing new materials and methods.
    She's also one of our Rollei reference customers in the USA for the new Rollei ATP-V1 Technical Pan film and the Rollei Digibase CN200 film.

    A very promising fine-art photographer for the near future.

    Best regards,

    Robert
     
  11. MenacingTourist

    MenacingTourist Member

    Messages:
    895
    Joined:
    Nov 18, 2004
    Location:
    New Jersey
    Shooter:
    Large Format
    I haven't gotten into my box of 4x5 iso 25 but I've shot lots of 6.5cm x 9cm in iso 25 as well as 5x7 in iso 100 and like others I've metered at box speeds. I develop in Rollo Pyro with a Jobo expert drum. I get great consistent results.

    I love Efke film.
     
  12. Black Dog

    Black Dog Member

    Messages:
    3,025
    Joined:
    Jul 21, 2003
    Location:
    I've been ev
    Shooter:
    Multi Format
    I've also found it fine at box speed-using PCAT semistand 1+200 for 35 mins.
     
  13. Ian Grant

    Ian Grant Subscriber

    Messages:
    17,516
    Joined:
    Aug 2, 2004
    Location:
    West Midland
    Shooter:
    Multi Format
    Perverse as it may seem I use EFKE PL25 at the same effective ISO as Tmax 100 - 50 ISO and get great results from both.

    Due to quirks in the ASA(BS) and DIN film speed testing methods the box ISO's err in different directions. The EFKE 25's film speed has been the same since its introduction, as ADOX KB14/PL14, 14 being 14DIN=25ASA, where as other film manufacturers doubled their box speeds late 60's.

    Ian
     
  14. JPD

    JPD Member

    Messages:
    822
    Joined:
    Mar 24, 2007
    Location:
    Sweden
    Shooter:
    Medium Format
    DIN 14 is ASA 20. DIN 17 is ASA 40.

    Fotokemika changed that to 25 and 50 when they started with DX-coded 135 cassettes.

    Here are three Efke boxes from the 80's til today.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 24, 2008
  15. Ian Grant

    Ian Grant Subscriber

    Messages:
    17,516
    Joined:
    Aug 2, 2004
    Location:
    West Midland
    Shooter:
    Multi Format
    Ok but my brain cells have decayed morev than yours !!!

    But the films the same :smile: I haven't changed my personal ISO rating, ASA/BS 50

    Ian

     
  16. titrisol

    titrisol Member

    Messages:
    1,671
    Joined:
    Aug 2, 2004
    Location:
    Rotterdam
    Shooter:
    Multi Format
    Same film as in the Morgan & Lester PhtoLab Index form the 50s!!!
    That explains many things

     
  17. fwp

    fwp Member

    Messages:
    64
    Joined:
    Apr 19, 2005
    Shooter:
    Large Format
    I've been using Efke -25 exclusively for the last couple of years and develop it using TFX2 and semi-stand development. I started using a hardening fixer
    after getting tired of scratches from handling after processing. I've got a bunch of good negatives with scratches from the negative carrier to prove that the stuff is delicate!
     
  18. RoBBo

    RoBBo Member

    Messages:
    255
    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2007
    Location:
    Chicago, IL
    Shooter:
    Multi Format
    I swear by FG-7 1:15 for this stuff, usually underexpose it just a bit, let the shadows go out and print dark.
    It's beautiful.