efke 25 development

Discussion in 'B&W: Film, Paper, Chemistry' started by adam h, Jun 16, 2009.

  1. adam h

    adam h Member

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    I'm new to developing film. I just developed my first sheet of 4X5 film, last week-TMAX 100 in Rodinal. I was surprised that the negatives came out ok (actually, that they came out, at all.)

    I use a Yankee Tank, and shoot only 4X5. My issue is that I just tried to develop 4X5 Efke 25, and the results were terrible. WAY to contrasy-to the point that I couldn't make prints from them. I used Rodinal 1 +50 for 8 minutes (per the digital truth site.) I was really disappointed. How to I develop Efke 25 in 4X5, and get good negatives that aren't so contrasy?

    Thank you.


    Adam
     
  2. keithwms

    keithwms Member

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    I have had success with two developers and efke 25: wd2d+ (a pyro formula) and POTA. The latter is one-shot and probably too inconvenient for your purposes but keep it in mind if you need extreme range. I've also gotten acceptable results in ID11 1+1 but I think the wd2d+ negs were the easiest to print overall.
     
  3. adam h

    adam h Member

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    What do you think caused the excessive contrast?
     
  4. keithwms

    keithwms Member

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    It is very contrasty film and rodinal at 1+50 is probably not compensating enough for you.
     
  5. Anscojohn

    Anscojohn Subscriber

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    This film builts up contrast fast. My notes for the old Adox R-14 (now EFKE 25) indicate Rodinal 1+ 100, 15 minutes, 68 F, for printing with a diffusion enlarger. That should put you well in the ball park with 4x5.
     
  6. J Rollinger

    J Rollinger Member

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    John

    Did you use a semi-stand? What was your agitation cycle for the 15 minutes?
     
  7. JPD

    JPD Member

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    I tried to develop Efke PL25 9x12 (20 ASA) in a CombiPlan tank with Rodinal 1+100 at 20ºC for 17 minutes, two inversions every half minute, and got soft negatives. I will try 20 minutes the next time.

    So you CAN get soft/normal contrast with Efke 25. You'll just have to find the developing method that works for you.
     
  8. Ian Grant

    Ian Grant Subscriber

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    Over the years I've used Adox KB14 (DIN), now called Adox KB25 (ISO) as well as R25 & PL25 in Rodinal at 1+37.5 (2+75) and 1+50 with excellent results, I've always used the film (since the 70's) at 50 EI.

    Now I process my 10x8 PL25 in Pyrocat HD at 2+2+100 for 9 minutes, I've never really noticed it to be a particularly contrasty film, but it shouldn't be over-exposed. I always treat it almost exactly like Tmax100, same 50 EI and Dev times abd it gives similar tonality.

    Ian
     
  9. Zvonimir Ervacic

    Zvonimir Ervacic Member

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    Hi Adam,

    Try to expose it at EI12 and develop in Rodinal 1+100 at 20 degree C for 9 minutes, agitate gently for 10 seconds on each minute. Use it as a starting point for diffusion light enlarger or reduce development for about 10% for condense light enlarger.
    As always it all depends on light and subject when you were shooting, what are you trying to accomplish and have in mind that Efke25 is less sensitive in red spectrum so increase exposure time if shooting in warm light like sunset or tungsten lighting.

    Pozdrav,
    Zvonimir
     
  10. Ian Grant

    Ian Grant Subscriber

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    Adox/EFKE films are quite different to other manufacturers films in that the stated box speed is still more akin to the early ASA system with it's built in margin, this was removed in 1960/61 when all films speeds were effectively doubled except for ADOX KB14, 17 & 21, and the R - roll film & PL cut film sizes. The UK importer in the 80's& 90's recommended KB25 be used at 50 ISO, which nmatched closely my own tests.

    So be careful exposing at 12 EI under normal conditions, it's not recommended and it's no c-incidence that EFKE themselves warn about over-exposure.

    Ian
     
  11. Alessandro Serrao

    Alessandro Serrao Member

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    Sacrifice 10 frames of one roll shooting a grey card at noon, bracketing +5 and -5 stops or their increments and then develop the roll accordingly with the manufacturer (film) instructions.

    That's the only way to fine tune the personal EI based on what you're going to do with the negatives, either scanning it or printing it diffusion versus condenser head, etc...)
     
  12. P C Headland

    P C Headland Subscriber

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    I use Rodinal 1+100 for 17 minutes when exposed at EI25.

    When I've used the taco method in a 120 tank, and agitated by inverting the tank, I'd do 5 gentle inversions at the start of each minute, then one inversion every three minutes. I use the same dilution, timings and method for Efke R25 (120).

    In the Paterson Orbital, I find PC-TEA works well too.
     
  13. Murray Kelly

    Murray Kelly Member

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    Try Beutler at EI-40 for 16m semi-stand. Works well.
    Murray
     
  14. Bosaiya

    Bosaiya Member

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    I use Efke25 and Rodinal 1:25 as per the Massive Dev Chart in tanks and rollers. Never had a problem with too much contrast. I'm guessing it was exposed incorrectly, definitely do some tests and don't give up, it's a wonderful film that deserves to be used.
     
  15. RobertV

    RobertV Member

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    Beutler E.I. 25-32 and Rodinal E.I. 25 are both very good fitting developers for the Efke 25 film.
     
  16. kompressor

    kompressor Member

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    Funny thing, today i tested R25 in HC110 dillution G in 15 minutes at 20 degree celsius. Right now the film is drying but i will try upload some frames when scanned.
     
  17. Rolleijoe

    Rolleijoe Member

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    That's interesting Adam. I use the same tank, same film, but my Rodinal is 1:50 for 10min @ 20˚C. I generally just use my experience for a light meter, but it could be your shutter or aperture is having issues.

    Last year I switched to Ektar lenses (a Tessar clone) and have been happier ever since. How are you agitating?
     
  18. dr5chrome

    dr5chrome Member

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    We process allot of EFKE film, likely more of it than any lab in the US.

    About 75% is for positive dr5 processing. all the EFKE films do very well in our process; http://www.apug.org/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=21836&ppuser=17909

    The E25 has no contrast issues unless you push past 25iso [in dr5].

    As a negative, we either use D23-modified or DD-x. Both control the contrast in the negative.

    regards

    dw
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 22, 2009
  19. Thomas Bertilsson

    Thomas Bertilsson Subscriber

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    Let's not make this more complicated than it is

    Adam,

    Carefully consider this before you do anything else.

    You can do this successfully with the materials you have. If you have too much contrast, you developed for too long or agitated too much. That's mainly what determines your negative contrast.

    1. Are you happy with the shadow detail? Yes - keep exposing the film at the same Exposure Index (EI). No - increase or decrease exposure until you have enough shadow detail. You may have to sacrifice a sheet or two to get there.

    2. Now for your midtones and highlights - change your development time until you have contrast in your negatives that is printable.

    No other developer is going to magically get you great negatives if you fail to understand the dynamic above first. Continue to use Rodinal, which is a fine developer for this and any other film.

    All it takes is a little bit of practice. But it does take a little bit of experimentation when you start using a new type of film - changing around is something you want to do as little as possible when you're starting out.

    - Thomas


     
  20. Anscojohn

    Anscojohn Subscriber

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    A semi-stand for me is a two-legged tripod. I use standard ASA agitation.