Due to poor health and large medical bills, I'm selling off all of my film equipment. Hate to do it, but ya gotta do what ya gotta do. So, here's what I have available at the moment: 1) 1904 Seneca No. 3, 8" x 10". It has a unique design, in that the front rotates! Haven't seen one like it (perhaps this 1904 design just didn't work out, but, IMHO, it's pretty ingenious). This allows Rise/Fall and Shift simply by turning the front assembly! The rear standard allows for some Tilt and Rotate, but not much. The structure is reasonably sound, but there is a bit of damage to the rails (see pix), and it's hard to move the front standard. The knob tends to slip, so I would recommend simply pushing the standard along with one's thumbs, then using the knob for fine focus. At 109 years old, one should expect a few problems! The bellows appears to be light-tight and in good condition. The camera comes with its original 8" x 10" back, and I cobbled together a 4" x 5" back from pieces I had lying around, so you have 2 formats to choose from! There are five (5) sheet film holders. I'm away from the camera so I can't check, but I'm pretty sure all the dark slides are good. There is one with a crack, so keep that in mind when loading film. The shutter is a Wollensak Optimo No.3. It fires cleanly, and the speeds sound accurate. The lens is a Wollensak Velostigmat Series II, 7-1/2" Focus. The lens appear to be in good condition, but I suspect you'll have shutter/lens combos of your own that you'll want to use. I've stripped all of the old varnish off of the wood, using a paste wax as a preservative (I prefer wax to polyurethane or any other modern varnish/sealant), as well as removed some fabric that was being used as a light seal (regular black felt should be an adequate replacement). As such, the pieces that comprise the rotating front are a bit loose. Some of the small screws are loose, due to age. You might wish to replace those with longer screws, or perhaps with small bolts passing entirely through the structure, secured with bolts and washers. Brass or Nickel bolts might look pretty good. You might also consider removing them, filling the holes with an acrylic resin, then drilling small pilots holes for replacement screws. This second method may help to stabilize the wood, given that its over 100 years old! The camera does fold up for storage/transport, but there isn't a hook to keep it closed. There are some empty holes that suggest it once had a closure hook or strap. Finally, you'll receive 25 sheets of Arista 400 8" x 10" film. I don't know the exp. date, but it's been refrigerated the whole time I've had it. So, it total, you're getting the body, two (2) backs, five (5) 8" x 10" holders and 25 sheets of film. $450 OBO. 2) Pentax 67. With the Mirror Lock-Up feature. S/N:4194878. Comes with a working TTL finder and standard prism finder. Lens is a Takumar 6x7 Super-Multi-Coated lens, 1:2,4/105. Some paint loss on the edges of the body, hidden by the use of a black marker! Yeah, I know, but it's the function that matters, not so much the cosmetic condition. $325, OBO. 3) Sinar F. S/N: 26500. Includes the following: a 9" main tube with a 6" extension tube; a Sinar lensboard with a Fujinon-W 1:5,6/150 lens in Copal shutter; a second Sinar lensboard with a Schneider-Kreuznach Symmar 1:5,6/135 in a Synchro-Compur shutter. Almost everything on the camera is in good working condition; the bubble level on the rear standard for left/right movement is broken, but that's pretty much it for damage. Bellows is good. You'll also get eight (8) Fidelity Elite 4" x 5" holders, so you'll have 16 shots to work with. A great starter camera with a nice pro-quality lens for anyone getting into LF photography. I never used the Schneider, but you might get some interesting results with that. $500, OBO. 4) Mamiya RB67 Professional. S/N: C21451. Includes a Mamiya-Sekor C 1:3,8/127 lens, a Mamiya-Sekor C 1:3,8/90 lens, and I'll throw in a damaged Mamiya-Sekor 1:4,5/50 lens. The 50mm lens, on the camera when I got it (but not described as damaged by the seller) has a dented rim prevents shutter from firing correctly. For those unfamiliar with this camera, the shutter is in the lens; I suspect that the barrel of the 50mm has become oval-shaped due to the dent, and this is impinging on the shutter mechanism. Repairing it would cost about the same as buying a used one from KEH, but you would have a new warranty with the repair, something you won't get if you buy from someone other than KEH, Adorama, Roberts, etc. A 220 Pro SD film holder is mounted on the back, but is without the SD dark slide (another omission by the seller). The body needs new light seals, but that's not a major expense. This is a big, bulky camera, definitely not one for carrying around the woods or using on the sideline for action shots! More suited to the studio, and swapping out lenses and backs is fast and easy. $300, OBO. [PM me for additional pix; I've reached the limit in this post.] 5) Kowa 6 MM. Can't remember where I picked this up; most likely at some estate auction. I haven't used it, but other than a missing lens locking lever and a missing mirror lock up knob, everything else seems to be fully functional. Comes with a prism finder, which can bring a nice price on that big auction site. I'd recommend new light seals, as these are 25-30 years old! $150, OBO. PM me for pix. ____________________________________ I'll have more tomorrow, so keep an eye out. I have a large number of sub-miniature cameras for sale, such as the Minox B "spy" camera, the Minute 16 (pronounced "My-Noot", as in "very small"). That's a cute little camera, and I even have a new-in-the-box flash unit for it! I have several Minolta-16 models, including one new-in-the-box (the receipt, dated Aug. 31, 1959, is included), and a hard-to-find Steky II with a telephoto lens! If you're ready to buy, please make payment via Paypal to: email@example.com. Someone who pays first beats out someone with an early PM. I don't have Internet access at home, so I won't see any PMs until Thursday.