Expired film shooting and processing

Discussion in 'B&W: Film, Paper, Chemistry' started by Laurens, Jun 15, 2013.

  1. Laurens

    Laurens Member

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    I recently was given a bulk loader with quite a lot of unknown film in it. The guy who gave it to me, says it's about 20 years old.
    As a first test, i shot a small piece of film at 100 iso, and i stand developed it in Rodinal 1:100. The film turned out to be Tri-X 400.
    Of course, base fog is tremendous, and the images are a bit overexposed.

    I now want to improve the results a bit.
    I'm thinking of shooting at 200, but how can i develop it best?

    Shoot at 200, develop for the time indicated for 400, or shoot and develop for 200?

    I'll be using Rodinal to develop. I know it's not ideal, but i'm just getting the hang of controlling contrast with agitation and dilution.
     
  2. bdial

    bdial Subscriber

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    HC110 is popular for old film, it produces less base fog than many developers.

    I would probably develop for the full time to get the best possible contrast.
     
  3. Rick A

    Rick A Subscriber

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    I've been shooting TXP expired in 1980 at half speed and developing in Rodinal(1+25) for whatever time given for full speed. No mater what, base fog is present, so shoot it to take advantage of the effect. These were shot using TXP120
     

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  4. markbarendt

    markbarendt Subscriber

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    IME the issue isn't the contrast rate it's simply getting the detail you want above the fog so I'd shoot it at 1/2 the recommended speed for any given normal developing regime. Where you might normally shoot 400 just shoot at 200 develop for 400, where you'd normally use 800 at the camera shoot 400 develop for 800...
     
  5. Laurens

    Laurens Member

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    Thanks for the info!
     
  6. ic-racer

    ic-racer Member

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    I'd give the expired film away and use fresh film while it is still available.
     
  7. Laurens

    Laurens Member

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    I have fresh film in the fridge for 'serious' photography.

    I'm not using fresh film to test old cameras for light leaks and focus dial calibration. Even if i'm only using it as a test, i want to get the results as good as possible with the means i have.

    I actually planned to give some of it away, but i'll still be developing this film since i usually develop for my friends.
     
  8. jnanian

    jnanian Advertiser Advertiser

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    do you have a print developer with metol and hq in it ( like dektol )
    i would use that, it makes film less foggy
    shoot the film half speed 1:7 for about 7 mins

    have fun!
    john
     
  9. Laurens

    Laurens Member

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    I do have dektol actually. I'll try that too.
     
  10. damonff

    damonff Member

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    I hated Tri-X for years. I tried XTOL, HC-110, D76, Rodinal, PMK Pyro, et al. I got rid of all my rolls (100 ft.) I found a frozen roll the other day, expired (1987). I used TD-3, stand, for 1.5 hours. My dilution is (for the bottles that make 40 litres) each bottle goes into a gallon jug. I then use a 14/14/300 mix (lots of trial and error with other films). The day I found the Tri-X, I was like, "I'll try it with my stand go-to developer" as I was not using this combo when I was being disappointed by Tri-X for years.

    I placed an order for 15 100 ft. rolls of Tri-X the next day.

    Now, I realize that this combination may be the look that I want and no one else may care for it. I just know that for my eyes, there is no going back.

    I have apologized to the god of Tri-X many times since my epiphany.
     
  11. johnielvis

    johnielvis Member

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    Suggest using ilford pq universal. on tests with this vs hc110 dil a, the pq universal didn't delvelop fog on paper, but the hc-100 did--like very quickly--less than a minute, where the pq didn't do that. It works on film as well. Get yourself a tiny bottle and give it a try-what you want is the developer with the least amount of fog.

    Overexposing the film with that much base fog may just make things too thick and give you blown out highlights as well. expose @ 400 or 200 most and develop with the developer which gives least fog. Print accordingly OR, better yet--put it in ferricyanide bleach to cut the fog for easier printing.

    Better yet--toss the film and buy new film.