Favourite Delta Dev

Discussion in 'B&W: Film, Paper, Chemistry' started by hoffy, Nov 23, 2012.

  1. hoffy

    hoffy Member

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    Greetings Filmista's,

    When I started shooting MF, I quickly fell in love with Delta 100...that was before trying FP4+. Since that fateful day, my supply of Delta 100 has lanquised in the freezer, neglected.

    Since I have a few rolls of the stuff doing not much at all, I have decided to have a bit of a play with other developers to see what I can get out of it. In the past, I have been a strictly D76 person (Is that the 'missionary' of dev's?), but I have relented and bought some Rodinal, which I will soup some D100 in to see what I will get.

    So, firstly, what are peoples preferred way of processing Delta 100 in Rodinal (please also mention recommended agitation).

    Secondly, do you have a favourite Delta 100/dev combo? I'm curious to hear what others are doing with that film

    Cheers
     
  2. StoneNYC

    StoneNYC Subscriber

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    Anything ilford I stick with ilford developer, and I only use low ASA's for ilford (except the D3200) so I strictly use Ilfsol 3 which was specifically designed for low ASA ilford film, its newer and not as many people have tried it but they should. so try that, I use the 1+9 mixture.


    ~Stone

    The Noteworthy Ones - Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1 / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic

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  3. polyglot

    polyglot Member

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    I could relieve you of a couple rolls.
     
  4. Slixtiesix

    Slixtiesix Subscriber

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    May I ask why you prefer FP4+ over Delta now? I´m a fan of FP4+ but never used the Delta. I´ve read that DDX is recommended for use with the Delta line.
     
  5. hoffy

    hoffy Member

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    Fp4, from my experience is more forgiving.
     
  6. RalphLambrecht

    RalphLambrecht Subscriber

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    i am a d761




    =1 person myself. who needs anthing else?well, i do mix d76variations from time to time!
     
  7. Ian Grant

    Ian Grant Subscriber

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    I've been using Pyrocat HD with Delta 100 and 400 for the past 5 years with superb results.

    Ian
     
  8. markbarendt

    markbarendt Subscriber

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    Yeah that, although instead of or in addition to more forgiving I might say more automatic or more reliable or even easier to use.

    I've had better luck taming Delta 100 by paring it with a staining developer, WD2D+ in my case.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 24, 2012
  9. Ghostman

    Ghostman Member

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    Yesterday I shot a roll of Delta 100 and developed in Rodinal 1+50 for 18 minutes. I was very happy with the results. I normally use DD-X.
     
  10. Richard S. (rich815)

    Richard S. (rich815) Subscriber

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  11. Rob Skeoch

    Rob Skeoch Advertiser Advertiser

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    I use it in ID-11 and mix it 1:3. Gives me a time around 16 min. but your mileage may vary.
    Happy with it overall.

    -Rob Skeoch
     
  12. markbarendt

    markbarendt Subscriber

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    So I'm guessing EI100 and about 10% under under Ilford's recommendation?
     
  13. RalphLambrecht

    RalphLambrecht Subscriber

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    that sounds right, but you need to conduct a proper film test to get your best values:
    //www.darkroomagic.com/DarkroomMagic/Darkroom.html
     
  14. PeteZ8

    PeteZ8 Member

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    Perceptol 1:3 for 16 minutes, agitating once per minute, shot @ ISO 50. I find it gives a very fine grain and smooth tones. I have accidentally shot rolls @ 100 and developed them for 22 minutes and had good luck as well, but that's pretty boring!
     
  15. StoneNYC

    StoneNYC Subscriber

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    You guys are crazy, I try to stay under 10 minutes with any developer, I'm super lazy...

    Probably the other reason I like Pan F+ and Ilfsol 3 since its like 4 minutes for the 1+9 mix. So nice!


    ~Stone

    The Noteworthy Ones - Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1 / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic

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  16. michael_r

    michael_r Subscriber

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    Delta 100 will work well with most any general purpose developer from D76 to XTOL to Rodinal. I find it loses too much speed in Pyro but that's only my personal preference. In the end it will look very similar to FP4 in terms of tonality, just with finer grain. What might be worth noting is in my tests I found DDX to give Delta virtually box speed without even resorting to alternate dilutions, agitation schemes etc. So if you want to shoot at box speed DDX is a good option. Grain is only slightly more prominent than in D76/ID11. But I found the recommended time of 12 minutes far too long. 8-9 minutes worked much better.
     
  17. PeteZ8

    PeteZ8 Member

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    Not really; the 1 minute agitation times actually work out pretty well. It gives me enough time to run around the house and get other little jobs done while it's developing. I actually make it a rather productive time. Since I develop film in my kitchen and not tucked away in a darkroom, in between agitations I get the dishwasher loaded, countertops cleaned, maybe get a load of laundry going, etc. I actually don't mind it as much as, say, TX400 in D-76. Even though it's 1/2 the amount of development time, the 30 second agitations don't really give me any time to turn my back and get anything else done.

    Having said that, my primary B&W is TX400 in D-76, which I actually find rather laborious to develop as it requires pretty much constant attention. That and I find the 120 size MUCH more annoying to spool than Ilford films. Oh but that classic Kodak look.... makes it all worth it! :cool:
     
  18. Craig Swensson

    Craig Swensson Member

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    I can get coffee through the machine, do an agitation then steam milk before next agitation:smile:
     
  19. StoneNYC

    StoneNYC Subscriber

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    First, with all that chemical on your hands / counter / etc, you shouldn't be doing dishes or doing laundry or as the next poster said making coffee... That's just too chemically risky to me.

    I don't get the 120 to ilford comment... All of my ilford is 120....

    Do you use plastic or SS reels? If you use plastic, don't use the Patterson spools they are terrible, use JOBO spools, ironically I like the Patterson tanks much better and find the JOBO tanks leaky and lame, but the opposite with the spool/reels. They have an extra tongue sticking out that makes them super easy to load.


    ~Stone

    The Noteworthy Ones - Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1 / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic

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  20. CatLABS

    CatLABS Subscriber

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    Do share your dilution\times?
     
  21. RalphLambrecht

    RalphLambrecht Subscriber

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    HIS dilution and times are not relevant for you. you have to do your own development test. sorry, but that is the unfortunate truth. there are no short cuts. otherwise ,you end up with never-ending trial and error without ever reaching the optimum.
     
  22. PeteZ8

    PeteZ8 Member

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    I think you are way, way, way too paranoid about the possibility of a drop or two of a highly diluted, relatively safe chemical possibly coming into contact with dirty laundry or dirty dishes. If I was that paranoid about developer coming into contact with my dirty laundry, I would have to burn my clothes every time I walked out of the darkroom (after all, what else could I do with them?) As for the dishes, I'm far more concerned with what companies are putting IN the food I eat, than the remote possibility that 1 or two molecules of Metol might somehow make it through the dishwasher and contaminate my mashed potatoes.

    What I meant about 120 film is that Tri-X is a major pain in the you-know-what to get onto reels. Ilford film tends to be much less curly and I find it very easy to load. I will have to try some Jobo's; I use Patterson.
     
  23. mfohl

    mfohl Subscriber

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    The developer adds flavor to the coffee, right? You should try it on breakfast cereal!
     
  24. StoneNYC

    StoneNYC Subscriber

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    Probably, I tend to be overly cautious mostly because I don't know how little can affect you.

    But yea try the JOBO reels they really are amazingly better than the Patterson, if you DON'T like them I'll trade with you, I have a bunch of Patterson and I want them all gone... Lol

    Oi! Haha


    ~Stone

    The Noteworthy Ones - Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1 / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic

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