Filter Questions

Discussion in 'Miscellaneous Equipment' started by msbarnes, Feb 16, 2012.

  1. msbarnes

    msbarnes Member

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    I'm beginning to experiment with filters. I do not understand his topic fully but I have a few general questions. I shoot B&W primarily and with contrast filters but...

    -There is no negative consequence of using UV filters indoors, right? I mean besides the general consequences for putting an additional glass in front of your lens..flare..image degradation, etc. The intent of the UV filter is solely for protection.

    -I have invested in some Hoya HMC filters, but I've read that they can sometimes bind to lenses. To those who have experienced this issue, were you able to safely remove your filter?
     
  2. fotch

    fotch Member

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    Many brands can sometimes bind to the lens. I picked up a filter wrench from a camera store years ago and it does come in handy every once in a while. It looks sort of like an oil filter wrench except its made of plastic is smaller, of course. Cheap insurance.
     
  3. DWThomas

    DWThomas Subscriber

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    I have rubbed a tiny bit of candle wax on the thread, at maybe three spots around the perimeter, before screwing it in. That's with the idea of providing a bit of lubrication that is likely stay pretty much in the threads and not migrate much. If you screw together brand new filters in anodized aluminum frames, you can feel a certain gritty friction, the smidgeon of wax helps relieve that.

    My 2¢,

    DaveT
     
  4. jeffreyg

    jeffreyg Subscriber

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    You might also try removing the filter while wearing a rubber kitchen glove. Sometimes that will give a better grip. Be sure to carefully put the filter on to begin with and don't over tighten.

    http://www.jeffreyglasser.com/
     
  5. Ian C

    Ian C Member

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    The first four items here are filter wrenches for removing stuck filters from lenses or for separating filters from each other. They’re sold in pairs to separate two filters stuck together.

    http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?Ntt=filter+wrench&N=0&InitialSearch=yes

    You can also use a toothpick to apply a tiny amount of petrolatum to the filter threads before installing the filter on the lens to help prevent the filter from getting stuck in the first place.

    Here is a wax specifically intended for lubricating metal.

    http://www.sinclairintl.com/.aspx/pid=33078/Product/Imperial-Die-Wax
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 16, 2012
  6. George Collier

    George Collier Member

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    One reason that it can be difficult to remove a filter is that when you grasp the filter ring with your fingers, you apply some distortion to its shape, and create the resistance yourself. Try opening your hand out flat, and stiffen your fingers to create a tight stretch of skin across your palm. Then apply the flat of your hand to the front of the filter ring and twist in the same direction you would other wise. It has always worked for me, comes off surprisingly easily, and no extra tool to keep track of. The only thing you have to keep in mind is that if your hand isn't taught enough, you might leave a palm print on the filter, but this is easy to avoid just by being careful where and how you apply your hand.
    I do like the wax idea, but have never liked anything oily being around the glass. Too easy to transfer in the carrying case.
     
  7. John Koehrer

    John Koehrer Subscriber

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    Many people use a UV as protection. It does block UV light from reaching the film. "UV can appear as reduced clarity and the appearance of haze"*
    "ideal filter to be left on the lens as protection"*

    *B+W filter catalog.
     
  8. Leigh B

    Leigh B Member

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    One simple way to remove a stuck filter is with a flat rubber mat on the desk or counter.

    Put the lens face down on the mat so the entire filter ring is in contact, then turn the lens body while applying downward pressure.

    - Leigh
     
  9. Martin Aislabie

    Martin Aislabie Subscriber

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    Filters very rarely bind onto Lenses if you just nip them onto your lens in the first place.

    I use a multi-coated filter of some description all the time on all of my lenses.

    Filters keep sticky fingers as well as dirt and rain off the front element of lenses.

    If you use a clean multi-coated filter there is very little chance of it creating flare.

    When you experiment with the various coloured filters available to you with B&W film - take notes of what you are doing. Its very easy to shoot rolls and rolls of film and them not have a clue what filters you used for any particular shot (or at least its what I did)

    Exactly what filters you settle on will depend on what you like to photograph and where in the world you are (geographical location has a significant affect on the quality of the light)

    Martin
     
  10. Leigh B

    Leigh B Member

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    One good solution to potential binding is to use filters with brass rings rather than aluminum.

    The binding problem arises when you have an aluminum part threaded into another aluminum part, as happens with most filters.

    B+W and Heliopan make brass-ring filters. There may be other companies. I use B+W filters.

    - Leigh

    nb B+W is a German company, not to be confused with b&w (erroneously B&W), which refers to flack and white photography.
     
  11. Poisson Du Jour

    Poisson Du Jour Member

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    A UV filter is more commonly used as a lens protector. It's visible effect is negligible in practice, unlike the Skylight 1B filter which is noticeably pink and helps tone down excessive blue in landscape photography. UV filters have no effect indoors.

    A drop (just a drop) of Finish Line bicycle chain lubricant (contains teflon) on filter threads known to be difficult to remove (some polarisers, including B+W) will be a godsend. Filter wrenches impart extra force on the thread and are best avoided entirely. If a filter is difficult to remove, it has been secured too tightly — and that is NOT necessary. I have watched photographers literally monkey-wrench a filter on, then stripping the lens thread! Boo-hoo.

    Any filter, not just B+W and/or Hoya, can bind to a lens thread. A related but far more serious problem is lenses with aspheric front elements which can contact a filter once it is screwed in. Early on as a photographer you need to be aware of this, especially as you procure more expensive lenses. I need not tell you what happens if a critical front element is careless enough to suffer abrasive contact from a filter. The test for it is to put a cut section of lens cleaning tissue on the front element then very slowly screw the filter in and observe clearance. If the sheet moves, that's it: the filter is no good.