Follow-up questions to jnanian's developer survey

Discussion in 'B&W: Film, Paper, Chemistry' started by michael_r, Feb 22, 2013.

  1. michael_r

    michael_r Subscriber

    Messages:
    6,536
    Joined:
    Feb 2, 2010
    Location:
    Montreal, Canada
    Shooter:
    Multi Format
    This is a follow-up to John's survey about which/how many developers people use.

    1. I'd like to know what chemicals, film and paper people started out with - the first stuff you used. Chemicals include film and print developers, fixer etc.

    2. In reference to the above, how did you come to start out with them? eg: Were you taught by somebody? Did you read about them in a book? Were they the materials your favourite photographer used? Were they simply the materials available to you? Etc.

    3. If you are not still using the materials you began with, why? Did you read more and want to try stuff? Were you disatisfied with what you were using? Did certain materials become unavailable? Did you get caught in the search for magic formulas, films etc? Did your style change?

    4. Have you come full circle with anything? For example in the case of film developers, did you start out with D-76, then explore everything from D-1 to FX-whatever, and ultimately end up back with D-76? Same question applies to films, paper, paper developers.

    Thanks
     
  2. Rick A

    Rick A Subscriber

    Messages:
    7,420
    Joined:
    Mar 31, 2009
    Location:
    northern Pa.
    Shooter:
    Multi Format
    I started with a Kodak Holiday Brownie and 127 Pan X film in the early 60's. My first DR was an Ansco kit from Sears with universal developer and a contact printer. By the late 60's I was using Kodak products nearly exclusivly. My camera of choice by then was an Argus brick followed in 1969 by an Olympus FTL and a Yashica D. Still used mostly Kodak and Agfa papers with Kodak chems into the 80's.
    These days I use Pyro developers, along with D-76 and Rodinal for film. I use Ethol LPD for paper and Ilford, Forte, plus Fotokemika Emaks and Varikon papers.
     
  3. StoneNYC

    StoneNYC Subscriber

    Messages:
    8,201
    Joined:
    Aug 5, 2012
    Location:
    Connecticut,
    Shooter:
    8x10 Format
    1. Started shooting film 18 years ago but never developed my own till a year ago. So skipping to then, Started with Ilfsol 3 and I tried out most emulsions but was drawn to PanF+ being the only slow film available from my local lab. I tried a lot if emulsions from different vendors, read a lot and saw others post of old films that were gone and were so AMAZING so I've now shot on most of them, for the most part I disagree with the quality, but Tech Pan and Panatomic-X are both as nice as they say. The rest I can live without.

    2. Mostly I went to B&H to get my sink "darkroom" setup and the guy just handed me everything including all the ilford chems (Ilfsol 3/stop/fix) said nothing about wetting agent or hypo clear, and have me a dreaded JOBO tank which IMHO was a disaster, spills, etc, though he hooked me up with the Samigon plastic spirals which are WAY easier to load than JOBO/Paterson reels. I took them all home and watched YouTube videos and ended up following the ilford "developing for the first time" instruction manuals.

    3. I moved on to E-6 and loved it but hated the unavailability of chemistry, still on the search for that full setup. I also started trying developers that people often mentioned (D76/Dd-X/Rodinal/HC110(b)/Technidol) :wink: and found that Ilfsol 3 is pretty good but it's cost is high and it's shelf life short, but it has it's applications, both ailfsol 3 and HC-110 both seem to be good with highly fogged/old film. I've settled on Rodinal for most slower traditional films and DD-X for High speed T-grain films for the most part. DD-X also has a bad shelf life and costs too much (compared to Rodinal) but seems to be the best for the job. Tried every film I could, have settled on a few and still uncertain of many.

    4. I started with PanF+ and have to say its still my favorite if all. I use that for portraits and landscapes, it's really beautiful. I use Acros 100 for night photography for its reciprocity characteristics but if it didn't exist I might settle in PanF+ for that as well. HP5's tones I like but wanted a finer grain fit SOME applications so I also have yet to try Delta400 but did try Tmax400 but I did not enjoy, found it sort of... Boring, but I'm still experimenting and trying some techniques I was told about. Used both P3200 and Delta 3200 and both are similar, Delta is available in 120 so sticking with that. The tones are actually really nice and come out great if shot at 800 or 3200 during the day rather than at night, the grain is much better and details amaze. I went back to give Ilfsol 3 another chance, I still think it's a really good developer, and even though its a one use, I've developed up to 6 rolls (or 12 if using a 2 reel tank) in the same developer adding 30 seconds to each run after the first and seen no significant change or dev exhaustion. So in a pinch it can be extended. But ultimately shelf life and economy get higher priority and Rodinal gives really nice tones for what I prefer.

    I have yet to do my own printing so I cannot comment on that side :sad:

    Few that was longer than I expected!


    ~Stone

    Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1, 5DmkII / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  4. StoneNYC

    StoneNYC Subscriber

    Messages:
    8,201
    Joined:
    Aug 5, 2012
    Location:
    Connecticut,
    Shooter:
    8x10 Format
    Oh and I want to try pyro / PMK or whatever the Kodalk one is, it appears nice I'm just not sure if photographers formulary is the right one or there is another. But that's really the end if my "discovery phase", then it's in to wet plate stuff :smile:


    ~Stone

    Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1, 5DmkII / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  5. Gerald C Koch

    Gerald C Koch Member

    Messages:
    6,246
    Joined:
    Jul 12, 2010
    Location:
    Southern USA
    Shooter:
    Multi Format
    Hi Michael,

    Boy am I going to date myself. When I was about 11 years old my parents gave me a Kodak ABC Photo Lab Outfit. It contained a contact printing box, Kodak Brownie safelight, trays, film clips, graduate, thermometer, a packet of Velox paper, and a Tri-Chem pack. The Tri-Chem pack contained foil packets to make 8 ounces of universal developer, stop bath and fixer. I have been hooked ever since.

    My camera was a Kodak Brownie Hawkeye which took 620 film. Film was developed by see-sawing it in the three trays. Most film those days was orthochromatic and so this was easy to do using the red cup on the safelight.

    Somewhat later I bought a copy of Kodak's book for mixing your own chemicals. I bought a Kodak balance and started mixing my own developers probably D-76 and D-72. A photostore near where I lived sold Kodak chemicals such as Elon, hydroquinone and hypo.

    A few years ago I was able to buy two Kodak ABC outfits. One is new in the box and never even opened.
     
  6. michael_r

    michael_r Subscriber

    Messages:
    6,536
    Joined:
    Feb 2, 2010
    Location:
    Montreal, Canada
    Shooter:
    Multi Format
    Stone: Yes PMK is the Kodalk (ie Metaborate) one. PMK stands for Pyro-Metol-Kodalk. Formulary sells pre-mixed PMK which is handy.
     
  7. DWThomas

    DWThomas Subscriber

    Messages:
    2,899
    Joined:
    Jun 13, 2006
    Location:
    SE Pennsylvania
    Shooter:
    Multi Format
    Hmmm. When I began, back in the late Bronze Age (mid/late 1950s), I believe I used Kodak Tri-Chem packs and then graduated to D76, Microdol (I'm thinking that was before it was the -X stuff) -- and Dektol for prints. Exactly how I arrived at that, I'm not sure; it almost had to be a Kodak product, as local stores were pretty well saturated with yellow boxes (and cans!) and not too much else. I pretty well drifted into color and lab processing (once i had a real job) for several decades. I did do a bit of LF B&W in the late 60s and early 70s during which I may have used HC110 -- can't honestly remember.

    Then when I came back to doing some B&W here in the 21st C, I started with D-76. I see that as sort of the gold standard, practically every film maker mentions times for it; and using it is generally predictable. But simple practicality and economics caused me to switch to HC110, using 1+63 as a one-shot. I don't shoot massive amounts of film, and it tends to be in fits and starts, so the one shot from concentrate makes for much less waste, the concentrate lasts forever, and I like the results anyway. I have tried a couple of other print developers, but seem to be back at Dektol.

    Hopefully if the unthinkable happens, I can find and use some other maker's equivalents.
     
  8. michael_r

    michael_r Subscriber

    Messages:
    6,536
    Joined:
    Feb 2, 2010
    Location:
    Montreal, Canada
    Shooter:
    Multi Format
    Gerald - very interesting for me to imagine actually walking into a brick and mortar store to buy Elon. There were only two or three stores here that ever had that kind of supply and variety. One of them was not too far from where I lived and when I was very young my father would take me there with him nearly every friday night where he'd buy film or developer or paper. Unfortunately that store closed before I got into photography but I still remember the shelves and shelves of everything you could imagine.

    As a chemist, did you ever find yourself wanting to try all sorts of developers over the years (staining, Crawley, etc) or did you basically stick with D-23/D-76/D-72?
     
  9. TheFlyingCamera

    TheFlyingCamera Membership Council Council

    Messages:
    9,449
    Joined:
    May 24, 2005
    Location:
    Washington DC
    Shooter:
    Multi Format
    I started off with Oriental Seagull paper in the blue-and-white boxes. When that went away, I switched to Bergger VCCB. I'm not sure what I would use now if I wanted to print silver gelatin enlargements, as I think they've changed the formulation of the Bergger (IIRC, Ilford now coats it for them, whereas it used to be Forte). I think I was using Sprint or Edwal paper developer at home, Dektol at school. I switched to Ansco 130 as my primary developer because I got tired of getting greenish bromide undertones from the Dektol on warmtone papers. I have also used (and still have a stash of) the Ilford Warmtone and Cooltone developers (the Cooltone developer is no longer made which is a shame... it was nice for either cooling down a warmtone paper or doing split warm/cool development to produce cool shadows and warm highlights).

    For film developer I started off with Edwal FG7, then I found Edwal TG7 which did a better job on the T-grain films like Tmax and Delta. I was mostly shooting Tmax 100 and 400. Then I moved to Rodinal for film developer. After joining APUG, I was taught about pyro developers for film, and started using PMK. After using PMK for a while, someone else clued me in to Pyrocat HD, which I have stuck with since. It makes more sense for me to use Pyro because I'm now almost exclusively doing alt-process printing, and the contrast-boosting properties of pyro developers make that easier. Today my films are primarily FP4+, Arista EDU Ultra 200 and TMAX 400 in b/w.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 22, 2013
  10. Ian Grant

    Ian Grant Subscriber

    Messages:
    18,040
    Joined:
    Aug 2, 2004
    Location:
    West Midland
    Shooter:
    Multi Format
    I started with a Kodak Brownie 127, Verichrome Pan and Johnsonson Unitoll developer and Johnsons fixer in the early 1960's, paper was a mistake as I was sold a Kodak contact paper and enlargements were painfully slow. The we were banned from the darkroom as a friend flodded it :sad:

    More serious photography with my first SLR was with FP3 and Promicrol printed on Kodak Bromide or Bromesko developed in D163 (Kodak's main UK print and universal developer). I also used very early ex-military surplus PE papers long before Ilfospeed was released.

    Ian
     
  11. Gerald C Koch

    Gerald C Koch Member

    Messages:
    6,246
    Joined:
    Jul 12, 2010
    Location:
    Southern USA
    Shooter:
    Multi Format
    Hi Michael,

    It was a wondrous store that had an entire wall devoted to chemicals such pyrogallol, ferric ammonium citrate, silver nitrate, ...

    As far as film developers I have used the Beutler developer extensively with Pan-X. A truly wonderful combination. D-23 was also a favorite. I have made my own Rodinal starting with paraminophenol HCl. At the present time I use a concentrated developer based roughly on Paul L. Anderson's Kalogen. He designed this developer to replace Agfa's Rodinal which was not available during WWI. This developer was sold commercially for a few years. It uses Metol, hydroquinone and sodium hydroxide. Here is the page from his notebook http://notesonphotographs.org/index.php?title=Kalogen. I use it 1+49 just like Rodinal. When diluted 1+11 it works like Dektol for papers. Sort of the schmoo of developers.

    I subscribed to the Dignan news letter and tried many of the developers that appeared in it. Things like some of the Crowley developers, POTA and Microphen.

    At present I used either the Kalogen variant or HC-110 for film, sometimes D-23 for Pan-F.

    Jerry
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 22, 2013
  12. MattKing

    MattKing Subscriber

    Messages:
    16,826
    Joined:
    Apr 24, 2005
    Location:
    Delta, BC, Canada
    Shooter:
    Multi Format
    Kodak Tri-Chem Pack to develop my 616 Verichrome Pan - using the "see-saw" method.

    The contact prints were done on Velox. I can't remember if I had Dektol for the prints.

    Why do I have the strange desire to yell "get off of my lawn" to some young person? I don't even have my own lawn!:whistling:

    EDIT: Training came from my Dad, and the Kodak "How To" publications
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 22, 2013
  13. Brian C. Miller

    Brian C. Miller Member

    Messages:
    494
    Joined:
    Dec 13, 2010
    Location:
    Everett, WA
    Shooter:
    Large Format
    Chemicals: I really don't know the first developer I started using. I started developing at home when I needed better quality than the lab could give me. I know that I used D-76, HC-110, Xtol, Tmax developer, and a bunch of others. Then I decided to stick with Xtol and be done with it.
    Training: Self-taught. I bought a book, chemicals, bottles, and Patterson stuff, and dove in. The first book I bought was by Bernhard Seuss, and the AA series was next. I've never taken a class.
    Materials: Film emulsions have come and gone. I liked Ilford Universal 400 on half-frame, and Techpan on medium and large format.
    Full Circle: Still using Xtol. Still photographing with the same cameras and lenses. Never left them, never needed to change. As long as it can be repaired, I'll still use it. As for consumables, the major films are still being made, no big deal. Ilford makes great paper. I really don't bemoan (not too badly, anyways) the absence of any material ... OK, so I miss Kodak E6 and HIE/HIR. Besides that, I'm fine with what's available now.
     
  14. Sponsored Ad
  15. grahamp

    grahamp Subscriber

    Messages:
    960
    Joined:
    Mar 2, 2004
    Location:
    San Francisc
    Shooter:
    Multi Format
    Hmmmm. {Thinks harder} that was the Mid-'70s in the UK. (_19_70s, that is!).

    Aculux for Tr-X and FP4 35mm, AcuPrint for Kodak Double weight Lustre. Moved to Ilfospeed paper and Multigrade when it came out.
    Initial advice from the store (we had a good one locally then, now long gone), then self-taught from books, magazines (had good ones then too), and making mistakes (I still make those, unfortunately).

    Now I'm using Thornton's Two-bath for Delta 100, Delta 400 and the odd but odd Plus-X. Mostly 5x4 or roll film. Very little 35mm. Printing using Multigrade Warmtone on iIford Warmtone fibre mostly.
     
  16. Terry Christian

    Terry Christian Subscriber

    Messages:
    696
    Joined:
    Dec 2, 2011
    Location:
    Memphis, TN
    Shooter:
    Multi Format
    I just started developing my own about three years ago, and I started with Legacy Pro (Fuji Neopan) just because it was cheap, and HC-110. Although I know the importance of sticking with one film and one developer, I knew that I couldn't do that until I made the rounds of exploring the possibilities. I'm just about finished with that now, having shot just about every format and most of the easily available films out there from the big three manufacturers, plus a few more. With developers, I've also checked out D76, Rodinal, Ilfosol 3, DD-X, and one-shot and replenished XTOL. My next frontier will be pyro at some point, but I've already been consolidating down my developers and settling on just Rodinal, HC-110, and D76 mostly.

    I haven't done as much printing so far, so mostly I've stuck with what I've started with: whatever paper I've been able to get cheaply, developed in Ilford Multigrade. I have some unopened LPD and Dektol to check out soon. I've been completely self-taught in all of this, not discounting wonderful online resources.
     
  17. Thomas Bertilsson

    Thomas Bertilsson Subscriber

    Messages:
    15,206
    Joined:
    Jan 21, 2003
    Location:
    Minnesota
    Shooter:
    Multi Format
    Agfa APX 100 / 25 and Agfa Rodinal in 35mm.

    They were the most practical and economical materials available to me at the time.

    Agfa went out of business, as you know. I went on a frenzy and tried tons and tons of different films and developers, thinking it would take me to some place of higher knowledge. It ended up in a huge mess with terribly inconsistent results. A couple of years of difficult to print negatives. Then I ran across Tri-X and Pyrocat. Fine fine combination that I used together with FP4+ for a few years, until I started having developing problems. Enter Edwal 12 and Xtol, which is where I'm at today, still with Tri-X, but sometimes TMax 400 and FP4+ if I shoot landscape or something needing more resolution.

    Today I feel as though I have a balance. I have learned to use my tools well enough that there are very few surprises for me come printing time. My process is reverse engineered based on the paper, and my waste pile in the darkroom is much smaller, making the printing more enjoyable, less wasteful, and less frustrating. The paper I circle everything around is the MGIV fiber, not the warmtone, although I do use it sometimes. With Ethol LPD replenished as developer, which is soft working, I need pretty bold negs to print well, so that's what I do. It's a lot of fun.
     
  18. Pioneer

    Pioneer Member

    Messages:
    1,726
    Joined:
    May 29, 2010
    Location:
    Elko, Nevada
    Shooter:
    Multi Format
    I started primarily with Freestyle branded products. Arista EDU and Premium films. Arista Premium film and paper developers and other chemicals. Arista Printing Paper

    I started with these simply because they were inexpensive and, since I was using ordering everything from Freestyle at the time, there was plenty of data about them for a beginner. If I had any questions it was an easy thing to send an e-mail, or pick up the phone, and get an almost instant answer. In my experience Freestyle's customer service is top notch and they have earned my business and my loyalty.

    I still use a lot of Arista EDU and Arista Premium films (I recently ordered a large amount of both in 35mm and 120.) My primary developers are now Rodinal, HC110 and D76. The first two were primarily because of their long storage lives, and D76 because I like how it looks. I still use Arista Fixer and now some Kodak Photo Flow. The initial reason for changing developer was that my Arista Premium Developer was not storing well. After a year I started having trouble with it. I changed to Liquidol Paper Developer a while back and found it to be an awesome product and continue to use it almost exclusively for my prints.

    For now I am pretty happy with what I am working with. I work with it because the price is good and so far it produces great results. But, I am still a student, so I once in a while I find something else I want to try. I am preparing to do some work with John's Caffenol recipe to see how it pans out, and I am now experimenting a bit with Ilford films. I still buy a bunch of Kodak and Freestyle and will for as long as I can. :smile:
     
  19. StoneNYC

    StoneNYC Subscriber

    Messages:
    8,201
    Joined:
    Aug 5, 2012
    Location:
    Connecticut,
    Shooter:
    8x10 Format
    now that Rodinal is available again(Adonal), do you also use that?
     
  20. Thomas Bertilsson

    Thomas Bertilsson Subscriber

    Messages:
    15,206
    Joined:
    Jan 21, 2003
    Location:
    Minnesota
    Shooter:
    Multi Format
    No. I found something else that works, so I don't need to. But, never say never. :smile: It is very nice from a tonality and texture standpoint. Both Edwal 12 and Xtol give fine grain and very smooth tonality. Sometimes I'd like a bit more texture, and that's when Rodinal really shines, I think. Contrary to what most others think, I disagree Rodinal gives coarse grain. I don't think it's that much sharper than other developers either. It just gives that little bit of texture that looks amazing in prints, and you can't beat the practicality aspect of a developer that just goes on forever and a day without going bad.
     
  21. NedL

    NedL Subscriber

    Messages:
    1,814
    Joined:
    Aug 23, 2012
    Location:
    Sonoma County, California
    Shooter:
    Multi Format
    Wow this is bad. I was about 13 or 14 years old and all I can remember is that they were Kodak chemicals. A lot of Agfa film but I don't remember for sure if the B/W was Agfa too-- I sort of think it wasn't. By the time I was in college I didn't have a camera and was taking a "break" from photography for reasons too complicated and probably too controversial to mention, but I did spend some time helping friends in the college darkroom. I remember jugs of chemistry there, but I don't remember what they were. I do however have the strong memory that I was the only one who freaking actually read the directions, and that was a big reason I "knew what I was doing" while they were flailing around and having problems.
     
  22. jnanian

    jnanian Advertiser Advertiser

    Messages:
    19,994
    Joined:
    Jun 21, 2003
    Location:
    local
    Shooter:
    Multi Format
    hi michael

    i was in high school, maybe 14 years old, maybe 13 ? i don't remember. my photo instructor gave us kodak rc paper and we used sprint photochemicals.
    sprint film and paper developers, and speed fixer... they are made here in rhode island and are good stuff. the guy that started the company
    was a photo chemical genius. i can't really say much bad about sprint developers and i have never stopped using their fixer. the developer is
    sort of like d76 and doesn't blow highlights when over processed. i have used it off and on for a long time with no regrets.
    i used that throughout highschool and for 7 semesters in college, i used primarily seagull blue box paper, graded, and a little vc, and some kodak rc paper to proof. i also used a few boxes of kodabromide for personal book binding projects. it was single weight and graded and worked great.

    i used them because it was all i knew. after college i apprenticed with a photographer who opened my eyes. after i used different papers, mostly ilford.
    dektol developer, and dk50 as well as sprint film developers in deep tanks 1-shot for sheet film.

    i eventually experimented a little bit with other film and paper developers, mainly because i had nothing better to do. when tmax / tmax rs came out i used them, i used xtol
    and when i ran out of $$ i started to use a can of gaf universal i found in a window of a studio i was renting. it worked great, and when i realized i couldn't find it in the stores
    i was told it was ansco 130 so i started to use that almost exclusively for film and prints. i really saw no other reason to use anything else ... until whitey emailed me
    the recipe for caffenol c. i used it by itself and eventually dropped about 1oz of paper developer into it ... close to 7 years ago and haven't really done much else.
    once in a while for commission work i will still use sprint film developer or ansco 130, but don't use much besides the coffee and a130. for films ..
    i use whatever film i can find, and am not too particular.

    if i ever get sick of the coffee and a130, or if the formulary stops making glycin, i will probably go back to sprint.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 23, 2013
  23. Kirk Keyes

    Kirk Keyes Member

    Messages:
    3,267
    Joined:
    Jun 17, 2004
    Location:
    Portland, OR
    Shooter:
    4x5 Format
    Tri-Chem pack for me too. Processed in my bedroom closet.

    Then onto D-76 and ID-11 for film, Dektol for paper. It was the late 70s and they were readily available.

    Now I use WD2H and Xtol for film for stained and unstained, and then Dektol or equivalent for paper.
     
  24. hdeyong

    hdeyong Member

    Messages:
    326
    Joined:
    Mar 5, 2009
    Location:
    Central Cana
    Shooter:
    35mm
    Started out about 30 years ago with Tri-X, and D-76, sometimes a concentrate, but I can't remember what it was. The paper was an Agfa product, FB and glossy, in Dektol, I believe.
    Moved on to HP5 and D-76 or ID-11 and Kodak papers. Always had some Panatomic-X on hand for special stuff, like cars, on which it did a beautiful job, which I believe I developed in Ilfosol.
    Have now settled exclusively on HP5+ (70%), FP4+(20%), and a bit of Pan F (10%), developed in HC-110 or D-76.
    Am getting ready to set up to do my own printing again, and have already pretty much decided on Ilford MG fibre based and their chemicals.
    I'm not going to experiment too much more, maybe with a little infra-red, because I like the looks and usability of what I have and don't see much reason to change.
     
  25. Wade D

    Wade D Member

    Messages:
    901
    Joined:
    Feb 15, 2006
    Location:
    Jamul, CA
    Shooter:
    Multi Format
    1. Instamatic with Verichrome Pan about 1966. My 1st SLR (a Petri) and Tri-X about 1968.
    D-76, Dektol, Indicator Stop Bath, Kodak Fixer. Polycontrast SW glossy was the 1st paper.

    2. On the advice of the kindly older gentleman behind the counter at the local Fedco camera dept. They had everything a regular camera store had back then.

    3. I tried various developers and films over the years. Plus-X was my go to film for MF & LF.

    4. I'm back to using D-76 and Dektol for standard developers. Tri-X for 35mm. I like the look of it. Using the last of my Plus-X cache in MF & LF and am trying out Fuji Neopan 100 as a replacement.
     
  26. Ricus.stormfire

    Ricus.stormfire Member

    Messages:
    271
    Joined:
    Jun 8, 2009
    Location:
    Bloemfontein
    Shooter:
    Multi Format
    1.Agfa APX 100, Ilford FP4+ & HP5+, Agfa Rodinal, Agfa MCP 310, Ilford Multigrade, Agfa Fixer.

    2. Film, Ilford is the most readily available film in SA, and I can remember the Ilford brand from my youth when my mother worked at a news paper. Rodinal, I asked the shop keeper for B&W film developer, that's what he gave me. Agfa paper was cheaper than Ilford. The rest of the chemicals where all that was available.

    3. Real APX went away (although I recently tried the Agfaphoto version) Tried Kodak's Tmax films (not readily available) Rodinal went away, tried Tmax developer, and started using ID11, found a supplier for Rodinal (RO9 One Shot), so now I use Rodinal and ID11. Agfa paper went away, switched to Ilford. Still use Ilford chems for paper. Ilford is the only company that has a decent (if any) range in SA, Kodak doesn't care and only sells C41 "consumer" film (No TriX!!!!!).

    4. I still use Rodinal (bought from a supplier) and ID11, Ilford films I will by when I can afford them( I use Rollei/Maco films now), I use Ilford paper (or imported ADOX and Oriental), Ilford chems are used because there is nothing else in SA (NO KODAK CHEMS!!!!).