FOMAPAN KIT DEVELOPER 100 R - 35 mm Film

Discussion in 'B&W: Film, Paper, Chemistry' started by artep, Jun 26, 2012.

  1. artep

    artep Member

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    Hi everyone,

    I hope somebody could help me with. I am trying to developed a 35 mm film with these instruccitons: http://www.foto-r3.com/files/kitrevelado.pdf but not understand, the step with B2 liquid when says the expresion 'TAPETEN BAG' and also the timing of re-exposure is not clear.

    I have lost two films... does anybody know something about??

    Many thanks and regards!!!
     
  2. Europan

    Europan Member

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    Hi

    I processed Fomapan R(eversal) 100 for years in all available formats.

    B1 and B2 form the potassium permanganate bleaching bath. I do not understand tapaten either but the thing is that B1 is to be dissolved first and B2 then added. This kind of bleach solution will not hold long, it is actually used only once. Make sure that the permanganate is well dissolved, that you have no grains floating around. These might sit on the film and produce ugly spots.

    I prefer the potassium dichromate formula.

    Second exposure with bounced light from a 60-Watt bulb about two feet away, a minute is enough. Spiral reel must be white or colourless plastic. Check that every portion of the film is well exposed. You cannot overexpose.

    Give all the baths good agitation. That will shorten first development to 10 or 9 minutes and, very important, enhance evenness. A 35-mm. film picture must not turn out like an old sock. I think you will like this old fashioned film for slides.
     
  3. artep

    artep Member

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    Many thanks European, I hope in the end could develop this kind of films , I am sure will love the process as soon as I get it.

    Will try your advice and will post the results!

    Many thanks again!
     
  4. artep

    artep Member

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    Hi, I rememeber you because you help me with some doubts I had developing FOMA R100, finally I get the images using dichromate but still having some problems due to sometimes I get 'water marks' which appears in the films and I don´t know if the reason could be the time of shaking or the timelight or ... don´t know.

    Could you tell me how many times your use to shake the development tank? I going to try use the reversal part with chemicals instead the light but had doubts about shaking...

    Thanks in advance and have a nice day

    Regards
     
  5. Alessandro Serrao

    Alessandro Serrao Member

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    Try to expose the film in the tank leaving it submerged in plain water. Just lift up the reel only to change the side of it, then resubmerge it asap. The idea is not to have te film exposed while have droplets of water formed on it.
     
  6. artep

    artep Member

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    thanks a lot, I will try this becouse you are try i get some water marks on it...