Fuji Acros 120

Discussion in 'B&W: Film, Paper, Chemistry' started by FM2N, Apr 7, 2009.

  1. FM2N

    FM2N Member

    Messages:
    844
    Joined:
    Jun 23, 2006
    Shooter:
    35mm
    Hello,
    I shot the film at 400asa instead of 100asa. Any thoughts on what to do when developing this film. I would really love to save this roll.
    Thanks
    Arthur
     
  2. Ektagraphic

    Ektagraphic Member

    Messages:
    2,899
    Joined:
    Feb 3, 2009
    Location:
    Southeastern
    Shooter:
    Medium Format
    Tell the lab what has happened and they will push process it which is just changing the amount of time it is developed. If you are doing it yourself, I can't really be of any help.
     
  3. Thomas Bertilsson

    Thomas Bertilsson Subscriber

    Messages:
    15,013
    Joined:
    Jan 21, 2003
    Location:
    Minnesota
    Shooter:
    Multi Format
    Shoot another test roll with the same mix-up under similar lighting conditions, cut the roll in half, develop for 50% more time. See if you developed too much or too little. Adjust, try again. Then when you're in the ball park develop your important roll.
     
  4. Mark Fisher

    Mark Fisher Subscriber

    Messages:
    1,676
    Joined:
    Dec 13, 2003
    Location:
    Chicago
    Shooter:
    Medium Format
    Thomas gives good advice. It would also be helpful to know what developer you are using. I would expect that something like xtol or ddx might be a good idea. I tend to use Rodinal with Acros and it would have a hard time with a 2 stop push. I use xtol with tri-x and I can get a 2 stop push (with no detail in shadows of course).
     
  5. brianmquinn

    brianmquinn Member

    Messages:
    674
    Joined:
    Aug 31, 2006
    Location:
    Cincinnati O
    Shooter:
    Medium Format
    Last edited by a moderator: Apr 7, 2009
  6. dwdmguy

    dwdmguy Member

    Messages:
    818
    Joined:
    Feb 8, 2009
    Location:
    Freehold, NJ
    Shooter:
    Medium Format
  7. Poohblah

    Poohblah Member

    Messages:
    433
    Joined:
    Aug 30, 2008
    Shooter:
    Multi Format
    I would like to advise against pushing Acros in HC110 as it seems to result in lost shadows.
     
  8. FM2N

    FM2N Member

    Messages:
    844
    Joined:
    Jun 23, 2006
    Shooter:
    35mm
    Thanks all. I develolpe my own film and i use D76 1:1 I will probably add 50% to the time and hope for the best. I was also thinking of stand development with Rodinal 1:100.
    Arthur
     
  9. Thomas Bertilsson

    Thomas Bertilsson Subscriber

    Messages:
    15,013
    Joined:
    Jan 21, 2003
    Location:
    Minnesota
    Shooter:
    Multi Format
    Good luck. You won't know if you got it right until afterward...

    All the info on digitaltruth and other places are individual. People meter differently, their lighting conditions are different, heck even the pH of their water is different (which affects development). The only way you can find out for sure it to test for yourself. And Diafine - inflexible. You can't adjust your results by developing longer. So a roll of two stop (or more, depending on what EI you normally shoot it at, I used it at EI 80, so for me it would be 2-1/3 stop) underexposure not even Diafine can save. And if it was flat lighting - good luck printing those negs. They'll probably scan nicely, though.

    - Thomas
     
  10. keithwms

    keithwms Member

    Messages:
    6,075
    Joined:
    Oct 14, 2006
    Location:
    Charlottesvi
    Shooter:
    Multi Format
    Lots of good advice here. Not to disagree with the sage advice, but... on the other hand, it's only two stops, right! It's not a disaster. My guess is that the negs will still print quite well if overdeveloped a tad. You could simply do a clip test (if your first or last frame wasn't important) and determine that you need a wee bit more development.

    The thing about mistakes is that you can learn a lot from them! Once, I shot some IR film but... forgot to put on the IR filter!!! So the frames were all exposed by 8+ stops! The film developed to what look like pure black :roll: But, holding them up to bright light, I thought I saw a bit of detail. So I slapped them on a scanner and... surprise surprise, plenty of detail there. And the grain kinda worked with the scene.

    If you do scan underexposed/underdeveloped b&w negs, you'll probably be amazed at what you can get, but it will be grainy and any dust or scratches will be prominent. Bathing the neg in selenium can help a little (not much, just a little, but enough to see in the result from the scanner).
     
  11. Willie Jan

    Willie Jan Member

    Messages:
    1,931
    Joined:
    Jun 11, 2004
    Location:
    Best/The Net
    Shooter:
    4x5 Format
    Fuji across is a bad film for underexposure. It's critical at that point.
    I use/rate it at 50 asa in combination with rodinal or pyrocat hd,

    So 400 would be an overexposure of 3 stops.
    That would mean that your zone III (middle gray) is placed in VI.
    Be aware that your original scene zone II,IV and V will not contain detal when developed with rodinal or pyrocat-hd.

    overdeveloping your film will not get detail in these shadow regions.

    The only thing you could do is choose a developer that is capable of using the fuji across at a iso value > 100. The higher the better for your case.
     
  12. Keith Tapscott.

    Keith Tapscott. Member

    Messages:
    1,426
    Joined:
    Jun 11, 2005
    Location:
    Plymouth. UK
    Shooter:
    Multi Format
    Underexposed film will always be that. You could try undiluted Ilford Microphen and develop for around 8-9 minutes.
     
  13. Thomas Bertilsson

    Thomas Bertilsson Subscriber

    Messages:
    15,013
    Joined:
    Jan 21, 2003
    Location:
    Minnesota
    Shooter:
    Multi Format
    I hope you meant that EI 400 would be an under-exposure of 3 stops... Just to make it clear.