HK 10x10 horizontal color enlarger?

Discussion in 'Darkroom Equipment' started by 3e8, Feb 10, 2010.

  1. 3e8

    3e8 Member

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    This weekend, I'll be picking up a HK 10x10 horizontal color enlarger, like the one here.

    Does anyone have any experience with one of these? I'm in the process of building an 8x10 camera, and for $200, couldn't pass up the deal on a 10x10 color enlarger.

    I'll be setting it up in my garage, as I'm sure it won't fit in my darkroom. I don't have 220v power out there, and the seller is not sure if it needs 220v, but if necessary, I can get a upstep converter.

    It doesn't come with a lens, but I have a Rodenstock 300mm f/9 APO-Ronar process lens laying around. I'm not sure about the coverage at larger magnifications, but we'll see... If I find coverage or quality lacking, I can always upgrade later.

    The largest I anticipate printing in the nearer future is 40"x50". I have to do some more research on processing prints this large, but I'm planning on either using wallpaper trays, or making a processing drum out of ~4" diameter PVC and rolling the paper with some type of mesh. Any experience on the processing of larger prints as well?

    Thanks,
    Bryan
     
  2. Dave Swinnard

    Dave Swinnard Subscriber

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    Regarding the mesh...back in the mid '70s there was a mural processing tube available comprising a clear plastic tube, end caps for the tube, and a fine mesh-like material (might have been a very open-structure foam). The paper (it was FB in those days - cut from a long roll, sold as mural paper) was rolled with the mesh into a tube small enough to fit into the processing tube. Chemistry was introduced via one of the removable end caps. Agitation was a combination (if I'm remembering correctly) of rolling on the floor and periodically tilting from end to end. I made quite a few prints this way (and I'm guessing again they were in the 30"x40" size, or there abouts).

    Washing was the challenge. Repeated rolling and re-rolling in a tub of water, or deep darkroom sink, was what I used. Drying was clothes pins and flattening was under a weighted sheet of plywood.

    I haven't looked for a mesh/foam like this system used, but some industry must have something like this that can be retasked.

    Good Luck with the enlarger!

    Dave
     
  3. tiberiustibz

    tiberiustibz Member

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    The standard procedure is to make a tray in a v shape which is as long as your paper is wide, but only a few inches across. You rock the paper back and fourth to process it.
     
  4. Mick Fagan

    Mick Fagan Subscriber

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    Does the enlarger come with a metal wall? I ask this as the norm in many darkrooms with these kinds of enlargers, was to have a metal wall and one used magnets to hold the paper up, best way to hold paper vertically.

    I seem to remember 360mm lens as a standard on the two 10x10 horizontal enlargers I have personally used, and something like 460 or 480 for very big projections.

    Does it run two banks of 250W lamps down each side? Total of 2,000 watts in the head. If so and you blow a lamp, then replace (preferably) all 8 lamps, but I would suggest a minimum of the four lamps on the side that blew a lamp.

    This was mainly for colour work as if one globe blew, then the others would start to be getting weak and would have a substantial colour shift generally, so we replaced them. With B&W not as big of a problem though.

    You'll wonder how you did without it once you have it up and running.

    Mick.
     
  5. DanielStone

    DanielStone Member

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    please tell me you'll me using this to enlarge 8x10's or at least 4x5's, it'd be a pity to see someone enlarging 35mm with it :D.

    -Dan
     
  6. 3e8

    3e8 Member

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    Well, considering i don't have the 100 ft. long room (just a guess at length) required to get a 35mm neg up to 120" X 180" with a 300 mm lens, I'll have to stick with 4x5 for the moment, and then 8x10 once I finish my camera.

    On an related note, after doing some more research, I picked up a 300mm f/5.6 Rodagaon on ebay for $100. I found that the APO ronar probably wouldn't cover 8x10 at any larger magnification.

    Cheers,
    Bryan
     
  7. ic-racer

    ic-racer Member

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    Keep that process lens for low magnification, it may work a little bit better in terms of flatness than the Rodagon for 1:1 ( or that has been my experience).

    Also, if you see a 360mm for cheap or free you may want to pick that up. It gives you a little extra room to work in front of the enlarger (dodging, burning etc).

    I have a 300 Rodagon also and if you just had one lens, that is a good one to have.

    Don't rule out the small formats. I just got a recessed lensboard that will focus a 50mm lens on the wall.

    Please share you processing methods when you get it figured out. I started a thread about processing large prints a while back, and I'm probably going to go with 4 30x40 trays and buy paper in a roll but I'm still in the planning stages.
     
  8. 3e8

    3e8 Member

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    I was doing some research, and came across a reference to mural processing tubes like I had considered. Still considering what to use for the mesh. I'm looking at something like this, if I can find a more economical source/

    If one were to use the PVC tube on a rolling base, I don't think it would be necessary to fill the entire tube, which would save chemicals. It would probably help to do a water rinse to start with, as I think you may see uneven development from pouring the developer into the bottom of the tube otherwise.
     
  9. Rick A

    Rick A Subscriber

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    I think Walmart sells a plastic mesh used for hook-loop rug backing. Not sure of the sizes, may even come on rolls.

    Rick
     
  10. Justus

    Justus Member

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    tube processing

    I just purchased some 1/4" 10 PPI reticulated foam from http://www.foammart.com/specialfx9.html - this is the same foam used in the original Maxwell Mural Tanks. I used the Maxwell tank in the late 1960s: it performed well for me.

    justus


     
  11. 3e8

    3e8 Member

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    Thanks for the link. Do you remember the approximate diameter of the tubes? I was thinking of using 3" or 4" PVC, but with 1/4" foam, I think I may have to go even larger for 40"x50"
     
  12. 3e8

    3e8 Member

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  13. Justus

    Justus Member

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    mural prints in tubes

    4" is plenty for 30x40 (and was the size of the original Maxwell tubes), but a bit tight for 40x50. I just did a trial 40x50 rollup which created a roll with a 4.5" diameter. I am currently using 4" ABS pipe for my 30x40s. Once I am done refurbishing my horizontal enlarger (Devere 8x10), I planned to use 5" ABS for 40x50.

    justus
     
  14. 3e8

    3e8 Member

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    Well the plan has changed. I was going to buy the HK mural enlarger from a lab in NYC that was just looking to clear out some space. When the lab owner went to his storage, he couldn't find the head for the HK. Instead, he did find a Fotar 10x10 vertical 10' tall enlarger, with two color heads, that he's offered me instead. The horizontal elnarger appealed to me since I don't have extremely high cielings in my darkroom (a converted bedroom). However, I've found a few posts that say that the column of the Fotar can be cut down, and everything will work fine after you shorten the cables. So it looks like I'm gettting the fotar instead.

    Now driving out of NYC with a 10' column in the back of my pickup is going to be interesting...
     
  15. MirekMIrekk

    MirekMIrekk Member

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    It's much better to use double-sided adhesive tape over the magnet! You do not need a metal wall, you do not have any prints of photographs of the magnet.

    I routinely make prints 3mx1, 50m, adjusting the KAPA, laminating width Sallmetall 2m.MK-Czech Republic