How do I get the Abercrombie look?

Discussion in 'Exposure Discussion' started by get_me_a_gun, May 14, 2006.

  1. get_me_a_gun

    get_me_a_gun Member

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    Hi,

    I am shooting a model in a few weeks and I want to do some tests to see if I can get the abercrombie look. By looking at the photos I can tell they are overexposed.. but by how much ? Would I change my development time? Any other suggestions? (Time of day, kind of weather, etc)

    He is a white male, skin is pale to slight tan, Ill be shooting him in light jeans, from the waist up. He has a few tattoos.

    Thanks in advance!
    Lisa
     
  2. David A. Goldfarb

    David A. Goldfarb Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    You mean like the ones in this gallery?--

    http://www.abercrombie.com/anf/lifestyles/html/homepage.html

    They don't look particularly overexposed to me. They're shot in daylight. Some look like they have a reflector fill and the softer shots look like they probably have the sun diffused with a scrim overhead and maybe to the side.
     
  3. HerrBremerhaven

    HerrBremerhaven Member

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    The look is largely the work of Bruce Weber. You could probably ask him about it, and might even get an e-mail reply about his working choices.

    http://www.bruceweber.com

    He is a somewhat controversial individual. While his look is often emulated, it is not without detractors. You might want to read up a bit about him, such as this article to start:

    http://www.glbtq.com/arts/weber_b.html

    I think it is less his usage of B/W films, as it is the nature or
    style he uses in his images. It can be a good exercise, or learning experience, to emulate the look that other photographers created. However, instead of becoming the next Bruce Weber, I would encourage you to develop you own unique style.

    If it is more the soft B/W or vintage look, you can get some way towards that using a few different films. Shoot TriX (ISO 400) at ISO 200 and pull process to get a softer look is one thing to try. My own people film preference has been AGFA APX100, recently reborn as Rollei Retro 100. Basically, experiment to find choices that will best express your creative vision.

    Ciao!

    Gordon
     
  4. MattKing

    MattKing Subscriber

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  5. df cardwell

    df cardwell Subscriber

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    concur with mr goldfarb: tmy and xtol gives a ton of shadow detail with soft highlights

    or xtol with fp4, hp5, tri x ....

    a tiny flash fill if the shadows are heavy

    open shade, open sky... maybe a bug scrim ( think cine lighting )

    think shooting early or late in the day, when the sun is behind a tree or building

    ( what we've called 'sweet light' as long as there have been shooters )

    or, in the city

    keep the sun out of the shot if you can, or you'll need scrims and reflectors

    pretty simple, basic stuff

    a big park where you've got room to move folks around while the light is low

    around lowell, lot's of choices

    .
     
  6. gr82bart

    gr82bart Subscriber

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    Scan a pic so that we can get an idea of what you're talking about. There have been several &F campaigns so it's hard to know which ad campaign you are referring to.

    No matter what you do, you are trying to get it correct on film so that there is no need to adjust negative development, unless you're purposely pushing/pulling or made a mistake.

    Personally I love shooting in the 'golden hours' - these are the 1 hour before and after sunrise and sunset respectively.

    A decent make up artists/hair stylist is always good. They assist and also provide some styling advice. Men need some make up as well when doing a fashion shoot - just to bring out the eyes for example and touch up any blemishes.

    Regards, Art.
     
  7. gr82bart

    gr82bart Subscriber

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    Oops, I forgot make sure you meter everything.

    Regards, Art.
     
  8. GraemeMitchell

    GraemeMitchell Member

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    120 tri-x, rate it around 200. Don't over process it. Tactful fill when shooting. Though, Weber's light can actually be pretty hard too, but in print (or post) the contrast is kept down. Maybe pick scenes where the model blends in tonally (i.e. don't shoot him rolling around in dark mud; rather shoot him rolling around in tanned grass...regardless, there should be lots of rolling around).

    Shooting handheld will help too. Pentax 67 is Weber's thing. But anything you can dance with will work.

    That's just a starting point I'd guess at. I really don't know or have any special insights.

    Weber seems to take a lot of flack from other photographers, b/c it seems like what he does is so simple. Honestly, I'm not a big fan of his work, but I that's not to say I don't think what he does is a) not diffucult and b) that he's not very good at it.

    Have fun with it! And don't be afraid to make mistakes and learn on small shoots.
     
  9. George Papantoniou

    George Papantoniou Member

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    The closest I ever got to that look was with 4x5 AP100 (that was before APX !!!) shot on cloudy days at E.I. 50 and developed with dilute (1+3) ID-11, then printed on Record-Rapid. When APX came out (I think it was around 1988-89) I thought it didn't have the "velvety" look I found in AP.
    Since the only thing you can still find is ID-11, it's rather difficult to do the same... But I think that 4x5 FP-4 shot @ E.I. 50 and developed in Perceptol 1+3 can do the job...