ilford cap40 use?

Discussion in 'Color: Film, Paper, and Chemistry' started by larsdj, Aug 30, 2004.

  1. larsdj

    larsdj Member

    Messages:
    1
    Joined:
    Aug 30, 2004
    Shooter:
    35mm
    Hello
    My grandfather just donated me all his dark room equipment, this means i am now a porud owner of a ilford cibachrome-a processoer cap-40 and a vivitor VI dioptic light source projector. Can anybody kinda help me how to use this stuff since my grandfather is able to remember after numeruos strokes. I have done some dark room work with b&w and know the basics but dont want to start and mess something up before im sure. I have lots of chemicals he also gave me but i think they have passed there date since he ahsnt mad a print in over 6 years. If anybody could help me i would be extremely happy! Thanks, Lars
     
  2. Jorge

    Jorge Inactive

    Messages:
    4,532
    Joined:
    Sep 6, 2002
    Shooter:
    Large Format
    The Cap40 is a print drum processor, inside the top cover there is a cup that attaches to the inside of the lid. You place the print inside and keep the tube standing up while you pour the chemistry, once you place it on it's side on the drum roller the chemistry pours from the cup onto the print. You can process LF negatives on this tube with some modifications, like adding the screen Don was talking about.

    I have no idea about the Vivitar, but it sounds like a slide projector.
     
  3. BarryWilkinson

    BarryWilkinson Member

    Messages:
    693
    Joined:
    Mar 21, 2003
    Location:
    Somerset UK
    Shooter:
    Multi Format
    Hello Lars,

    The CAP-40 is an Ilfochrome Classic (was called Cibachrome) roller transport paper processor. It will process Ilfochrome up to 16" wide. It uses Ilford P30 chemicals. There is a washer/dryer attachment, but this is not needed, you can wash and dry the prints manually. See the Ilford web site for chemical details.

    Barry
    London UK
     
  4. glbeas

    glbeas Member

    Messages:
    3,307
    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2002
    Location:
    Roswell, Ga.
    Shooter:
    Multi Format
    Would that Vivitar more properly be a *dichroic* lightsource? Sounds a bit like a Vivitar color enlarger. Why not post a few snapshots of the gear so we can better identify it.
     
  5. legend

    legend Member

    Messages:
    3
    Joined:
    Aug 30, 2004
    Shooter:
    35mm
    The Ilford ICP-42 roller transport has the option to put the washer/dryer but the cap-40 didn't have that option. Cap-40 is still a great machine.
    Once you pour the chemical into the machine, 2 liter for developer, 2 liter for bleach and 2 liter for fixer, turn it on and wait until the power light goes off. When the power light goes off, it got the chemical at 86 degree and it is ready.
     
  6. steve

    steve Member

    Messages:
    243
    Joined:
    Sep 12, 2002
    As stated previously - roller transport machine.

    First clean the machine. Take out the rollers, then the turbulator plates - those are the flat plates that the chemicals are pumped over to make a thin laminar flow of chemicals. The will either be stepped or have small "pins" that stick up.

    Take the end caps off of the stainless portion of the turbulators and look down & make sure there are no obstructions and that all of the holes in the stainless diffuser arre open.

    Clean the rollers, clean the turbulator plates. I like to use a weak PhotoFlo in water solution and a very soft nylon brush on both the plates and rollers. There may be some silver plating on the roller after the developer tank and inside the developer tank. That's okay - not much you can do about it.

    Rinse the tanks out with warm water & make sure the drain hoses are not plugged. Put everything back together & fill it with warm water. Turn the machine on and make sure you have water flowing over the turbulator plates.

    Put the top back on the machine and let it run for 30 minutes. Check the first tank (developer) to make sure it is at 80F - 83F. Now you will know if the heater is working.

    I like to run the chemicals at 85F. You can easily adjust the temperature. If you are facing the loading door end of the machine with the cover off, there will be a small cap on the top, left side of the machine. Pop the cap off. You will see a screw driver adjustment on the end of a small rod. That's the temperature control. Clockwise = hotter. You won't have to adjust it much to get it to 85F. Let the machine run with the top on again for about 20 minutes to make sure it's at 85F.

    The three tanks are: developer (1), bleach (2), fixer (3). They each take 2 liters. Purchase the chemicals as the P-30 kit.

    When you are ready to print, mix up the chemicals and load the tanks. If you're careful, you can take the top off and pour them directly into the tanks - don't splash or you can contaminate the chemistry.

    Put everything back together - turn it on and wait 30 minutes for the machine to warm up and stabilize the chemistry temperature.

    Expose the paper - load it into the machine emulsion side down. Once the paper is pulled into the loading area. You can close that door and turn on the lights - it's light tight.

    Wait for the machine to spit the prints out at the other end. Wash the print for 5-7 minutes, squeegee off BOTH sides. Dry with a hair dryer (work prints) as the print will change color. Dry BOTH sides. The print will look red in the shadows until dry. If the back of the print is wet there will be a light magenta cast to the wet area.

    The chemistry will process 32 8x10 inch prints (or equivalent in square inches). The chemistry will actually work better after about three 8x10's are run because the developer needs some silver in it. Run test prints at the beginning, run good prints in the middle (prints 4 - 20), run more test prints again at the end - the colors will shift very slightly towards the end of a run (about 5cc red) so you want to be doing exposure tests and basic filtration tests at the end of a run.

    You can leave the chemistry in the machine over night - I wouldn't leave it longer than that - the developer oxidizes.