Ilfotec-HC Dilution

Discussion in 'B&W: Film, Paper, Chemistry' started by marciofs, Jul 15, 2013.

  1. marciofs

    marciofs Member

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    I was looking for information about Ilfotec on the search and in one of the posts somebody told about this dilution:

    Is this right? Because I have being diluted 1+31 straight from the bottle to develop my negatives and the results seems to be fine.
     
  2. miha

    miha Member

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    I also dilute it straight from the bottle, it works just fine. Ilford warns to make stock first by diluting the concentrate 1+3 with water and diluting it further 1+7 with water to make 1+31 as it is more likely to measure more accurately this way. I just use a small graduated cylinder with success.
     
  3. marciofs

    marciofs Member

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    I didn't know that.
    It means it can last even longer. :smile:
     
  4. StoneNYC

    StoneNYC Subscriber

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    Wait is this basically Ilford's version if HC-110? Similar to Ilford's version of D-76 which is ID-11 ? Anyone?


    ~Stone | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  5. michael_r

    michael_r Subscriber

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    Ilford lists both Ilfotec HC and Ilfotec LC29 as "equivalents" to HC-110. Note this does not mean they are exactly the same. Like HC-110, these two Ilford developers are highly concentrated, Phenidone/Dimezone-Hydroquinone formulas, and they operate within a pH range close to HC-110. That is about all we can say and it doesn't necessarily say much about working characteristics. Ilfotec LC29 is described by Ilford as being based on Ilfotec HC but an easier-to-pour concentrate for lower volume processing.
     
  6. miha

    miha Member

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    Anoter 'equivalent' to HC-110 is Tetenal Neopress HC.
     
  7. marciofs

    marciofs Member

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    But you guys dilute it 1+3 (and the 1+7) before dilute it again to develop the film?
     
  8. miha

    miha Member

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    No, I work with the concentrate from the bottle. I take one part of the concentrate and mix it with 31 parts of water. As simple as that.
     
  9. marciofs

    marciofs Member

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    Since it seems most people works with the concentration from the bottle, what is the best to do? I am attempted to do the pre dilution because it would last longer. But if nobody or few does I wonder about the result quality.
     
  10. miha

    miha Member

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    It would not last longer, why would it? You said that you have been diluting it straight from the bottle before and that you were satisfied with the results. Why change?
     
  11. marciofs

    marciofs Member

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    Ok. So I got a wrong idea how it is diluted.
     
  12. StoneNYC

    StoneNYC Subscriber

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    There's no wrong way, as long as your end result is 1 part dev and 31 parts water.

    You could do it in 5 steps and assuming your measurements were all correct still come out just fine.

    If this stuff is anything like HC-110 it doesn't "go off" for a long time. Even the bottle itself says "Expiration: INDEFINITE" so I'm sure you will be fine.


    ~Stone | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  13. MattKing

    MattKing Subscriber

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    Stone is correct about the dilution procedure.

    However, for clarity, HC-110 (and I assume Ilfotec-HC) is very long lived for so long as no water has been added to the concentrate.

    Once you start diluting the concentrate, the resulting stock or working solution is relatively short-lived.
     
  14. marciofs

    marciofs Member

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    What I thought is that I can dilute 1+3 from the bottle enough to have 1 litter diluted concentration. Then I can re-dilute (or dilute the diluted concentration) 1+31 to develop the negative. Is this right?

    It means that I would use less developer than diluting it 1+31 straight from the bottle to develop.

    Therefore the bottle (or the syrup) will last longer in my stock. Or take longer to "run out".

    Did I get it right?
     
  15. MattKing

    MattKing Subscriber

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    Sorry, but no.

    If you first dilute 1 + 3, you end up with an intermediate "stock" solution.

    To turn that stock solution into something you can work with - a "working solution" - you need to further dilute it 1 + 7 (1 part stock plus 7 parts water).

    The end result is working strength developer made up of 1 part concentrate plus 31 parts water - 1 + 31.

    If you were to dilute the stock solution 1 + 31, there wouldn't be enough developer in the result to work properly.