In search of warm tone

Discussion in 'B&W: Film, Paper, Chemistry' started by Grady O, Mar 7, 2005.

  1. Grady O

    Grady O Member

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    I normally print with Oriental VC fiber developed in Sprint (similar to Dektol). Although I'm happy with the results, I just got back from a trip to Arizona and would like to print the pictures with a warmer tone. I've seen some pictures with a copper tone and would like to stay away from that in keeping with just a light brownish tone. Any recomendations for something to try? I'd like to keep it simple with little toning and a simple developer.
     
  2. ScottH

    ScottH Member

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    Perhaps Ilford MG WarmTone? Has a creamy base, and should you choose to tone it responds nicely. I hear Forte has great paper too, though must admit I've not used it, YET.
     
  3. jcausey

    jcausey Member

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    Agfa's fiber-based paper has a lovely warm tone and takes toners beautifully. Calumet had a sale on it recently.
     
  4. Kevin Caulfield

    Kevin Caulfield Subscriber

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    Another vote for Ilford Warmtone.
     
  5. brent8927

    brent8927 Member

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    I also would vote for Ilford Warmtone. If you'd like to try it out I can sell you my 8x10 pack with 90 sheets of Ilford Muligrade Warmtone Fiber Based Paper (glossy) for $40.00. I found that I preferred the matte surface.

    Here's what I do. Print on Ilford Warmtone paper, develop in Zonal Pro HQ Warmtone developer (works very nicely) and then tone in Agfa Brown Toner. I usually print a stop or two darker than it should be because brown toners tend to kill my blacks. Also, when I tone (at a normal dilution), I usually tone between 15-30 seconds. The instructions say to tone at least 30 seconds, but I found that with the Ilford Warmtone paper and Zonal Pro developer, I get some great tones with short amount of time in the toner; most importantly, I have blacks, which I really like to see. My best prints to date have been made using this method (of course I'm no pro or anything)

    Brent
     
  6. Bob F.

    Bob F. Member

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    You could try your existing Oriental in Neutol WA. Or, there is an image or two of mine in the gallery made on Ilford WT in Neutol WA which may give some idea of the colours obtained (a bit over the top I think - must try a bath in KRST)....

    Cheers, Bob.
     
  7. Donald Miller

    Donald Miller Member

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    I like JandC Polywarmtone Classic a lot. This paper has incredible tonal separation. While I like Oriental a lot and continue to use it for my printing, the JandC paper is unique in it's presentation.
     
  8. Jim Chinn

    Jim Chinn Member

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    I just saw a new issue of Black and White Photography that had a review of the new Oriental Warmtone paper. I don't know if it is available in the States yet but it might be worth a try.
     
  9. blansky

    blansky Subscriber

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    Since a lot of people use selenium for archival reasons and have it already, I would suggest Ilford Warmtone in Zonal Pro Warmtone developer then selenium toned, for a warm brown tone.

    Ilford warmtone in LPD 1:6 then selenium toned for a more eggplant brown tone.


    Michael
     
  10. ChuckP

    ChuckP Subscriber

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    Oriental VC Warmtone is nice. Does not have a true glossy surface. Sort of semi-matt. I use Agfa Neutol WA developer for it. The Agfa Classic is a good paper to try with this developer. Just warm enough for me.
     
  11. Joe Symchyshyn

    Joe Symchyshyn Member

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    While it's not a "just a light brownish tone" I think the AGFA MCC line of papers in brown toner is a perfect brown print.

    It may be too brown for what you're looking for though... But something to investigate none the less.

    joe :smile:
     
  12. titrisol

    titrisol Member

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    If you want to avoid toning, use Ilford WT or Patterson Acugrade WT in Ethol LPD 1+15

    Nice browinsh tones right form the start
     
  13. Les McLean

    Les McLean Subscriber

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    In addition to using warm tone papers and developers add 10 to 15ml of a 10% solution of bromide to your working developer to help warm up the print but be careful not to add too much as it will result in a flat print with a green cast. Another dodge is to over expose the paper and under develop as a starting point over expsose by about 40% and underdevelop by say 50% to warm up the print. This will aslo help control the print contrast when printing from a high contrast negative.The suggested times and dilutins are starting points so you will need to experiment to find the best combinations for your taste.
     
  14. Ruslan Safin

    Ruslan Safin Member

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    I love Forte!

    Scott, I used and still do! Forte Fortezo FN-4 - is unbelievably great and low cost (In Russia about 6 USD for 10 sheets 24x30 cm). :smile:
     
  15. titrisol

    titrisol Member

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    Fortezo used to be awesome!
    Havent used it in 5 years or so


     
  16. Ole

    Ole Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    Fortezo Museum is one of my "standards".
    And Bergger's CB Art.
     
  17. McCarthy

    McCarthy Member

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    I can't tell you how much I like the warmtone of JandC Classic Polywarmtone and the paper is triple weight (320g/m2) which is an added benefit in my book.
     
  18. Ruslan Safin

    Ruslan Safin Member

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    Ole, I also use Forte Polywarmtone Ivory Museum - non contrasty and warm. Intended to give an "old" feel and it really does! I look at my landscape like it was shot 70 years ago!:smile: and I often add strong tea to the final washing - 150 years ago feeling!%)
     
  19. Ryuji

    Ryuji Member

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    In terms of complete range of tones and control of degree of browns, there is nothing better than polysulfide toner in combination with neutral or warmtone papers. You can use Kodak Brown Toner or AGFA Viradon for this purpose.
     
  20. gandolfi

    gandolfi Member

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    anybody tried the awesome FOMA Fomatone MG classic chamois 542?

    developed in FOMA's own Fomatol PW W24 it lets you have really warm - sometimes allmost greenish-brown images.

    the paper recembles Kentmere Art Classic in surface, and the warm paper base combined with the tones are truely beautifull..

    did anyone whisper Josef Sudek?....
     
  21. Ole

    Ole Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    Josef Sudek only made contact prints, so... No, that's not the paper he used :tongue:
     
  22. Phillip P. Dimor

    Phillip P. Dimor Member

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    I've only tried Ilford Warmtone RC but it's a spectacular paper. I especially like to develop it in Ethol LPD. If you go the Ilford WT route with Ethol, be sure to fully develop the paper (for me it was usually 2 to 2.5 minutes)

    I would tone in selenium, the result is a chocolatey brown/black.. Works well for lots of subjects.. Just my $0.02
    -phil