Kallitype questions / help

Discussion in 'Alternative Processes' started by menglert, Feb 14, 2006.

  1. menglert

    menglert Member

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    I've been reading the forums for some time now, but now that I'm going to begin Kallitype printing, I have some questions.

    Safety first: Does anyone have a chemical dust mask to suggest that I can use while mixing solutions, and where to buy?

    Am I able to precoat papers with sensitizer and store them, or should I only prepare them the day I plan on printing? If I can store them, how should I store them?

    Are the following to be used as only "one-shot" or can any of them be reused?

    Sodium thiosulfate crystals - fixer
    Sodium citrate - developer
    Sodium sulfite - fixer and hypo clearing agent
    Citric acid - clearing agent
    Potassium Chloroplatinite 20% solution - toning solution
    Sodium Chloropalladite 20% solution - toning solution
    Kodak Selenium Toner
    Kodak Hyper Clearing

    I'm concerned with if the toners can be reused for multiple prints because the platinum/gold/Selenium ect, can get expensive in time.

    As I understand it from my reading, if you tone with a nobel metal (gold/platinum) it replaces the silver and the print will have a much longer life. Are there any other metals I could use to tone with besides the common gold/platinum/palladium/Selenium?

    Regards,
    Martin
     
  2. Shinnya

    Shinnya Advertiser Advertiser

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    Hi Martin,

    I am sure someone can answer better than I can, but I will try it for now.

    LSS
    <http://www.lss.com>

    I would think you coat as much as you can use in a session (7-8hr). I keep them in paper safe.

    Fixer - One session - you may need to replace is depending on how much you make.
    Sodium Citrate - I think it depends on how much it clears. As long as developer can clear unexposed iron, you should be able to use it.
    Sodium Sulfite - One session - you may need to replace is depending on how much you make. Was it 800sq in/lit?
    Toners - depends whether you want something consistent or surprises. I was told that 10ml of metal toner is sufficient for a 4x5/5x7 print.

    There is mercury, uranium, and copper? I am not sure if other organic compound would work like Pyro. At least they are supposed to work for Pd prints (p.118, Nadeau 1998). I am about to get Steven's book. So I can look it up when I receive the copy.

    Good luck.

    Warmly,
    Tsuyoshi
     
  3. Gustavo_Castilla

    Gustavo_Castilla Member

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    The chemistry is not that toxic if you keep common sense , not any worst then driving on the asbestos filled freeway. I love the Kallitype proccess lots of different tones and colors can be achieved I recommend you go to http://www.bostick-sullivan.com/Technical_papers/formular.htm
    lots of Info from Dick
     
  4. donbga

    donbga Member

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    Have you read Sandy King's article on Kallitype printing found on the Unblinking Eye Web Site? You will find information there that will answer most if not all of your questions, though it is by no means an exhaustive review of all of the variations that are possible with kallitype. Steven's book is the defacto bible on kallitype, unfortunately it is out of print and is expensive if you can find a copy.
     
  5. philsweeney

    philsweeney Member

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    Hi Martin,

    The palladium toner lasts a long time (many months). Gold toner does not hold up very long, so mix up small amounts if you really want to use it. You really have to use these one shot as the noble metal is used up in the process. I still follow Sandy's paper and topoff the sodium citrate after about 5 8 x 10s (i.e., decant to 800mL and add 200mL). Some times I'll pour off more if there appears to be more sediment (iron ?) I have coated papers and used the next day or a few days later, but usually the same day. I have been double coating on COT320.
     
  6. Lukas Werth

    Lukas Werth Member

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    A few notes in addition to the suggestion of Sandy King's excellent article which should answer most of your questions:

    Sodium citrate comes cheaper, and is easy to make from citric acid and sodium carbonate. Add a little additional citirc acid to keep the developer acidic, this goes a long way in clearing effectively.

    I don't know whether what you have given is a complete shopping list from the scratch: in this case you also need potassium dichromate for contrast control.

    I would'nt start with selenium toning, but with gold, pd and pt as described in Sandy King's article. Selenium is more difficult to handle with kallitypes. In fact, if price is a factor, gold and pd alone carries you a long way.

    Fixer is used quite diluted, so it is best to use it fresh each time.
     
  7. Lukas Werth

    Lukas Werth Member

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    Forgot your question on coating: my experience is coat, dry, and expose as soon as possible, particularly under conditions of about 60 % ambient humidity.
    Expose bone-dry, and if you want absolutely to store, then desiccate.
     
  8. Jim Noel

    Jim Noel Member

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    By all means read Sandy's article completely and carefully.

    I have adopted his single tray method and find it to be the most economical in the use of chemistry.
    ALthough the method of toning he describes appears to be wasteful, in the long run it is economical because you always know what the toner is going to do in a fixed period of time. This is not true when toner is re-used. By the way, gold/ammonium thiocyanate toner lasts as well as any when using this method.

    As for dichromates, I never use them. Of course if I miss on the development time of the negative it does not print well as a kallitype, so I just make a duplicate with appropriate HL density and contrast range. At least I do not ahve to worry about safe disposal of dichromates.
     
  9. menglert

    menglert Member

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    Thanks for all your replies. Currently my alt & b&w printing has been put on hold. Recently I built a vacuum frame and have had serious problems with Newton Rings. I've been reading through the forums and trying to decide how to best deal with them. Right now I'm opting for anti-reflective glass, if I can find it at a framers at a reasonable price.

    I'll take a look at Sandy's article. When I started I was working off of the Kallitype section on "Coming Into Focus."

    Thanks,
    Martin