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Discussion in '[Classifieds] For Sale' started by vedmak, Aug 26, 2010.
Stored cold since 1974? How much?
was not there to hold the guys hand, but he had a store in Chicago, that went out of business. I will take $30 for each sealed and $15 for each unsealed, even though they have more than a half in each one. Plus shipping.
I'll take two of the sealed cold stored boxes.
pending sale 1 unsealed 2 sealed.
I sent a PM for a sealed box
only one open box left $15 plus shipping
that would have been interesting to try but id have to cut it
seems like the perfect film to test anti-fog with
you can expand development without it and probably get something pretty good but maybe with antifog you clear up whatever fog is there and keep the full expandibility of the film while shooting it like panatomic at 32
anyone know why micahel smith has said he shoots his XX at 200! becayse its fogged
that was never explained
I plan on expanding it quite a bit -- and if needed, I might bleach back any unneeded base fog. For the price, it is worth a shot. I also have some of the film in 4x5 that expired 1995, give or take a couple years that I'll try the same thing with (the 4x5 was not cold-stored).
It has been awhile since I used Super-XX. Back in 1980, or perhaps '86, I forget.
Vaughn--I'd love to hear about your methods and results. I plan on expanding as well for alt-process contacts, but perhaps the base fog won't be an issue as long as it's even. I'll try Pyrocat HD for a start. Time to dust off the densitometer.
My normal developer lately has been Ilford PQ Universal developer and I might start with that. But I might give HC-110 another shot -- I think I have heard that it is known as a clean working developer, which I think means it would give less base fog than some others. I use to bake the Tri-X in it (25 minutes in Dil. B, constant agitation) to get high contrast, but with minimal base fog. But like you, I am not worried too much about base fog -- I have used out-dated film and have lived with base fog before.
But with my carbon printing, I use negs with a high density range (higher than needed for pt/pd), and have used bleaching to reduce the shadows a little (clear in the smallest shadows where I don't need detail). On some negatives I followed the beaching with selenium toner to move the highlights the other way. I don't like to have to do such post treatment, but sometimes the image is worth it.
Hope you don't mind the chatter, vedmak!
PM sent re: remaining unsealed box.
All film is sold,payments pending. Thank you everyone for your interest.