Kozo-shi paper for pt/pd and cyanotype?

Discussion in 'Alternative Processes' started by Loris Medici, Aug 5, 2009.

  1. Loris Medici

    Loris Medici Member

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    Hi all, I'm interested in MM-1 or MM-2 Kozo-shi paper from Hiromi Paper (see link below). Is there anyone using this paper for making pt/pd and/or cyanotypes?

    Link: http://02a9443.netsolstores.com/mm-1kozo-shi.aspx

    Suggestion(s) for thin (but relatively strong) translucent/semi-translucent paper suitable for iron processes will be highly appreciated.

    Thanks in advance,
    Loris.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 5, 2009
  2. clay

    clay Subscriber

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    I bought a sample book from Hiromi and tested the wet strength and acidity of about every paper they carry. Both of these had decent wet strength and neutral acidity. Might be worth a try. The MM-2 is quite a bit heavier and a more neutral white base. If you don't want to risk anything, just buy the Kozo from Bostick and Sullivan. Their paper prints well and has similar texture.
     
  3. Loris Medici

    Loris Medici Member

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    Thanks Clay!

    I'm more interested in MM-2 right now. I can use slightly more weight.

    The B&S paper sounds very Masa-like according to description and I have plenty of Masa on hands. Can you compare Kozo-shi to Masa? (If you have experience with Masa that is...) Also, B&S's paper is listed as being 50gsm, that's more than I want...

    Regards,
    Loris.
     
  4. clay

    clay Subscriber

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    The B&S paper actually is a lot nicer than any Masa I have ever used. It is a true Kozo paper and is slightly acidic, which makes it very friendly for pt/pd and cyanotype. I also want to make clear that all I did with the sample book from Hiromi was test the pH and soak a small piece of the various papers for 10 minutes to test their wet strength. The vast majority of the ones I tested are not suitable for photographic printing, and most fell apart like Kleenex after being soaked. But the MM-2 looked promising from what I could tell.
     
  5. Loris Medici

    Loris Medici Member

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    Thanks much, I'll see if they're willing to send a couple of small sheets for testing before placing a relatively large scale order... I do really want to be able to print on thin japanese paper for making pt/pd (or cyanotye) chine-collé's or backing the prints with gold leaf.

    BTW, I'm not sure if acidic paper is better than neutral paper for iron processes -> not that you're saying that but it sounds so... My understanding is that as long as everything else is kept equal/constant, there should be no difference between the results from acidic paper and neutral paper.

    Regards & thanks again,
    Loris.
     
  6. clay

    clay Subscriber

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    Neutral is fine, to be sure, but the richest single coat paper I have ever used was super acidic, and using it allowed me to effortlessly produce very nice prints. Unfortunately, I have about twenty sheets of it left :^(

     
  7. doughowk

    doughowk Subscriber

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    Are both Kozo papers from B&S suitable for pt/pd?
     
  8. clay

    clay Subscriber

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    yes

     
  9. sdivot

    sdivot Subscriber

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    Clay,
    I just received some B&S Kozo paper. I got a little off both types. The thin Kozo has lines running through it. They are more or less uniform, about an inch and a half apart, going all the way down (or across, depending on the orientation of the paper). I'm sure it is a result of the manufacturing process.
    Did you notice this on your B&S paper?
    Thanks,
    Steve
    www.scdowellphoto.com
     
  10. Davec101

    Davec101 Member

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    Does anyone have any scans of prints using the B&S kozo paper for platinum/palladium printing? Im interested in seeing how a print looks on this paper, thanks
     
  11. doughowk

    doughowk Subscriber

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    Going thru my papers and realized I still have some from a B&S sample pack. Includes a sheet of Kozo light & heavy. Read somewhere that Kozo soaks up the sensitizer, and extra water should be added to the pt/pd solution. Any experience here? Also it has a rough & a smooth side - presume should print on the smooth?
     
  12. scootermm

    scootermm Subscriber

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    Dave I've done a little printng on it and scanning them in is a bit of a futile effort.
    The quality gets completely lost and it doesn't really look unique in the least in a scan. The paper itself has a very strong characteristic.

    The prints on it can be astounding though. I have a very large print of Clay Harmon's and it is a perfect image. The paper, the process, the subject all work wonderfully in concert and create a sum far greater than the individual components.

    ... as all photography processes, papers, tools etc should do when utilized by each of us.


    I highly recommend you try to seek out someone close by that can show you some examples in the flesh.
     
  13. lecarp

    lecarp Member

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    Here is a link to some Van Dyke Brown prints on Kozo. I don't know if it is like the paper B&S sells. The scans are large enough to get a good idea of how the paper and image work together.

    http://www.frangst.com/Home/index/forces-of-nature
     
  14. Schlapp

    Schlapp Member

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  15. clay

    clay Subscriber

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    The thin stuff I have does not have the lines running through it. It sounds like the Gampi I have used in the past in that respect. With Gampi, the lines will not show after it dries as long as you don't try to light it from the back or something. I can't really say about this Kozo, because apparently I have a different version. But I did get it from Bostick and Sullivan.