Maco UP 25 in Rodinal? Times & other info appreciated

Discussion in 'B&W: Film, Paper, Chemistry' started by superloaf, Nov 20, 2007.

  1. superloaf

    superloaf Member

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    so i have some maco up 25 120 that i want to try in rodinal 1:100--anyone know a starting time? and agitation, etc? i like the rodinal look but prefer fine grain. also, i've read that this film is the same as efke 25 but the massive dev chart has different development times in the same developer, so who's right?

    i really have been liking rodinal 1:100 lately but the developing charts never seem to list 1:100 which makes no sense to me. other than the extra time, it seems that higher dilution gives a much nicer tonal range along with finer grain, so why would you want to use 1:25 or 1:50?

    anyways, any info on this combo appreciated as a search really didn't turn up much info. thanks.
     
  2. Murray@uptowngallery

    Murray@uptowngallery Member

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    A distraction -

    Funny how people who use strong developer don't understand the appeal of high dilutions. Just a matter of perspective I guess.

    I assume the higher dilutions have the added advantage of being friendlier to skin, lungs, environment, cost, etc.
     
  3. Aurelien

    Aurelien Advertiser Member

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    You may use efke 25 times. I have used digitaltruth times for Up25, and results are so much sharp. When I decided to use the same times as efke 25, results were much better!
     
  4. superloaf

    superloaf Member

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    i've just read that efke 100 is the same as adox 100 in another thread. does this mean that maco up 25 = efke kb 25 = adox chs 25?

    these german films sure are hard to keep straight.
     
  5. Fotohuis

    Fotohuis Member

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    Exactly.

    Rollei/Maco was dealing with Efke till 2003.

    UP 25/Adox 25 so the Efke 25 is not comming from Germany but from the Fotokemika factory in Croatia, based on the old Dupont receipt of the 50's. They are single layer B&W films.

    All Rollei/Maco films after 2003 are comming from Filmotec (Germany) or Gevaert (Belgium). The only non actual production films from Rollei/Maco are the Retro films which are made from the APX 100/400 (new) material last production run from Agfa Photo, end 2005, just before they went out of business.
    These Retro films will be replaced at the Photokina in Cologne (Köln) 2008 by the new Rollei Super Pan 200 film, also made by Gevaert in Belgium, the former R&D lab from Agfa. This new film is based on Agfa Scala technology and the new prototypes seems to be like a Fuji Acros 200 film :wink:

    Best regards,

    Robert

    (Dutch Rollei/Maco distributor)
     
  6. superloaf

    superloaf Member

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    thanks for that info.

    jeez, you guys should print out a reference card with all the different german films and what they really are and which ones are the same etc., etc. it's so amazingly confusing!

    looks like the germans have taken a lesson in american branding and marketing. oh, well, at least their cars are still the best (and lenses.):D


    so is maco UP dead? adox is the new name now?
     
  7. Aurelien

    Aurelien Advertiser Member

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    In fact there was a slight differenc ebetween Maco UP25 and Efke (Adox) 25. They were not coated on the same base: Adox 25 are coated on acetate base, whereas Maco UP 25 were coated on PET base. And Robert (Fotohuis) said that quality control from maco was better than Efke's.
     
  8. Fotohuis

    Fotohuis Member

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    UP25 was made on clear PET layer.

    Last order from Maco to Fotokemika was in 2003.

    Rollei/Maco is dealing now with Filmotec: Alternative: Rollei PAN 25 which is based on clear PET layer and non-curling layer. This film is a modified NP15 OrWo (ORginal WOlfen) emulsion.
    Pretty good:

    http://www.digitaltruth.com/store/rollei_pan25.html
    (Rollei PAN 25 versus APX 25 (discontinued in 2001) versus Efke 25)

    Here some (35mm) examples:
    http://gallery.fotohuisrovo.nl/thumbnails.php?album=4

    Regards,

    Robert
     
  9. Rolleijoe

    Rolleijoe Member

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    I've used Rodinal 1:100 a few times, and found it not worth the effort. This was as semi-stand for 1 hour. It does open up shadows, and gives a more even tonality, but I usually go 1:50 for 10min. Everything looks fine.