Member climbing Mt. McKinley

Discussion in 'Geographic Location' started by Steve Sherman, Jun 29, 2009.

  1. Steve Sherman

    Steve Sherman Subscriber

    Messages:
    536
    Joined:
    Sep 14, 2003
    Location:
    Connecticut
    Shooter:
    ULarge Format
  2. Thomas Wilson

    Thomas Wilson Member

    Messages:
    230
    Joined:
    Jul 4, 2008
    Location:
    Baltimore, M
    Shooter:
    Medium Format
    Very cool!

    I doubt he'll be able to lug any LF gear along, but hope to see some great shots.
     
  3. papagene

    papagene Membership Council Council

    Messages:
    5,304
    Joined:
    Jun 11, 2004
    Location:
    Tucson, AZ
    Shooter:
    Multi Format
    I can't wait to hear his stories when Tim gets back.

    gene
     
  4. MurrayMinchin

    MurrayMinchin Membership Council Council

    Messages:
    4,196
    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2005
    Location:
    North Coast,
    Shooter:
    4x5 Format
    Where I live, just south of Alaska's panhandle, we've had a couple weeks of windy, rainy, cold weather. Last night it snowed down to about 5,500' on the mountains around town...hope the weather is a tad bit more calm up north!

    Murray
     
  5. winger

    winger Subscriber

    Messages:
    2,911
    Joined:
    Jan 13, 2005
    Location:
    southwest PA
    Shooter:
    Multi Format
    Hope his climb on Denali is a great one!
     
  6. Steve Sherman

    Steve Sherman Subscriber

    Messages:
    536
    Joined:
    Sep 14, 2003
    Location:
    Connecticut
    Shooter:
    ULarge Format
    On the way down

    Congrats to Tim (climbabout) who summited Mt. McKinley on wednesday evening around 9 pm, making his way back down
     
  7. Christopher Walrath

    Christopher Walrath Member

    Messages:
    7,114
    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2005
    Location:
    In a darkroo
    Shooter:
    Multi Format
    Wirelessly posted (BlackBerry9000/4.6.0.167 Profile/MIDP-2.0 Configuration/CLDC-1.1 VendorID/102 UP.Link/6.3.0.0.0)

    Way to go, Tim. Take your time coming back. Enjoy it.

    Was he part of a team or did he take it Galen style?
     
  8. Marc Akemann

    Marc Akemann Subscriber

    Messages:
    1,273
    Joined:
    Jan 7, 2005
    Location:
    Michigan
    Shooter:
    Multi Format
    According to the link Steve Sherman (OP) shared with us there were four guides and seven climbers. Tim being part of the climbing team. If all went according to their posted itinerary, they should be flying off tomorrow.

    Congratulations, Tim!

    -Marc
     
  9. Christopher Walrath

    Christopher Walrath Member

    Messages:
    7,114
    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2005
    Location:
    In a darkroo
    Shooter:
    Multi Format
    Just got on the PC and checked the link. Talk about fortunate. I'm glad no one was more seriously injured or worse. I have no delusions of porting my huge frame on a frigid slope but I have always been drawn to climbing vicariously, as it were.
     
  10. Marc Akemann

    Marc Akemann Subscriber

    Messages:
    1,273
    Joined:
    Jan 7, 2005
    Location:
    Michigan
    Shooter:
    Multi Format
    The posts read as if there was no trouble and was a very successful trip. Am I missing something?

    -Marc
     
  11. papagene

    papagene Membership Council Council

    Messages:
    5,304
    Joined:
    Jun 11, 2004
    Location:
    Tucson, AZ
    Shooter:
    Multi Format
    Congrats Tim... hope to see some snaps at the next NELFPC meeting.

    gene
     
  12. winger

    winger Subscriber

    Messages:
    2,911
    Joined:
    Jan 13, 2005
    Location:
    southwest PA
    Shooter:
    Multi Format
    Congrats, Tim! Denali is a tough mountain. If the weather is bad, it isn't forgiving - glad you had good weather for the summit. Great job!
     
  13. Christopher Walrath

    Christopher Walrath Member

    Messages:
    7,114
    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2005
    Location:
    In a darkroo
    Shooter:
    Multi Format
    Day 13 copied from link page:

    Unlucky day thirteen. It started out well enough up at high camp. We basically devoted about four hours to a leisurly breakfast and packing session. Everybody was in a good mood remembering all that we'd accomplished on summit day. We drank coffee and tea and chocolate and chatted for hours. Then we got to the serious work for the day; descending to 14,200 ft. Conditions were ideal, the backpacks were huge, and we made steady progress. The high exposure section of the day; tiptoeing along the dramatic crest of the West Buttress, went quite smoothly. As did the strenuous descent of the steep fixed rope section. It was just where things got a little easier around 15,000 ft that a climber missed a step and Mark DeSmet had to do an ice axe arrest for all he was worth to stop the fall. He managed that. It was a textbook performance and it saved the day... But it popped Mark's shoulder. He knew immediately that it was dislocated. Myself and Matt and Pete then scrambled to get our climbers onto safe terrain so that we could climb back up to Mark in order to get the enormous pack off his back and attempt to stabilize his arm. I called the National Park Service on my radio, since I knew there was a four-man patrol down at 14k camp, and since we were definitely going to need some help. Mark has a phenomenal tolerance for pain and with his arm in a sling and an assist from one side he was able to walk quite rapidly down to 14,000 ft, where the patrol, two of whom were paramedics, took over his care. As our team got down and got busy building camp, the NPS patrol medicated Mark and attempted -with medical help advising via satphone- to reduce his shoulder. That effort was unsuccessful and the decision was made to get a helicopter in for Mark. I have no doubt that Mark would have been tough enough to climb all the way down with his arm out of joint, but it simply would have been too dangerous with the possibility of a crevasse fall thrown in. The helicopter came, and Mark kept right on smiling, joking, and flashing a thumbs-up as they took him away -despite his discomfort.

    And so our team is well, but diminished this evening. We tried to imagine Mark, a little scruffy from two unwashed weeks on a mountain, flirting and joking with the hospital staff down in Wasilla. Matt, Pete and I discovered that Mark must have been doing a fair chunk of the work because it was all that the three of us could do to keep up with the chores this evening. And we do have some big chores ahead. Tomorrow we will descend to 7,800 ft. Our loads will continue to be heavy, which is the inevitable downside of having gotten so lucky with weather... We have at least a week's worth of unused food and fuel to carry down, along with all the trash we generated. But we can and will get it done. We won't dwell on our misfortune -there isn't need for some great analysis of the incident; big packs, soft snow and steep slope angles sometimes exact a toll. This time, due to Mark DeSmet's quick action and sacrifice, the toll was mitigated -and due to the friendliness and expertise of the NPS rescue teams, our climb can proceed.

    Dave Hahn
     
  14. Marc Akemann

    Marc Akemann Subscriber

    Messages:
    1,273
    Joined:
    Jan 7, 2005
    Location:
    Michigan
    Shooter:
    Multi Format
    Thanks Christopher. After reading your post, I went back to the RMI site and discovered I couldn't see all the posts on Firefox but when I switched to Safari I could read them all. I wonder what else I'm missing out on. :wink:

    As you said, "Talk about fortunate. I'm glad no one was more seriously injured or worse."

    -Marc
     
  15. Steve Sherman

    Steve Sherman Subscriber

    Messages:
    536
    Joined:
    Sep 14, 2003
    Location:
    Connecticut
    Shooter:
    ULarge Format
    Down to base camp

    Spoke with Tim's wife last night, Tim is safely down to base camp, when conditions are right to land a plane on the glacier he will fly off and back to civilization.

    Can't help but remember Tim quoting another member of climbing's elite, "Getting to the summit is optional, getting back down is mandatory"

    Congrats Tim
     
  16. climbabout

    climbabout Member

    Messages:
    225
    Joined:
    Aug 11, 2005
    Location:
    Fairfield Co
    Shooter:
    8x10 Format
    Mckinley Summit

    Thanks to all the good wishes and thoughts from all who followed my Mckinley climb. It's good to be back home in CT. Here's a couple of summit photo's courtesy of Dave Hahn as my camera was a bit balky in the cold on summit day.
    Tim
     

    Attached Files:

  17. climbabout

    climbabout Member

    Messages:
    225
    Joined:
    Aug 11, 2005
    Location:
    Fairfield Co
    Shooter:
    8x10 Format
  18. ChrisC

    ChrisC Member

    Messages:
    399
    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2004
    Location:
    Wellington,
    Shooter:
    4x5 Format
    Good to hear you got up and down safely and I'm sure you had a wonderful climb.
    Mountaineering is something that lures me more and more every day. I really need to get my feet wet, but not black.
     
  19. MurrayMinchin

    MurrayMinchin Membership Council Council

    Messages:
    4,196
    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2005
    Location:
    North Coast,
    Shooter:
    4x5 Format
    Nothing like BIG WILDERNESS to make a person feel small, eh?

    An achievement so big, oddly, is understood in little tiny bits, spread over years. Enjoy the future as you come to really understand what you've done :smile:

    Murray
     
  20. climbabout

    climbabout Member

    Messages:
    225
    Joined:
    Aug 11, 2005
    Location:
    Fairfield Co
    Shooter:
    8x10 Format
    Very well put Murray.
    Tim
     
  21. climbabout

    climbabout Member

    Messages:
    225
    Joined:
    Aug 11, 2005
    Location:
    Fairfield Co
    Shooter:
    8x10 Format
  22. SteveinAlaska

    SteveinAlaska Member

    Messages:
    50
    Joined:
    Mar 18, 2007
    Shooter:
    35mm
    Ah well, just got a new password, am now able to check back in on the website and saw your post. I sit here in my office at the University of Alaska Fairbanks and look at that big ole hill you just climbed if the weather is good (and we are not smoked out from forest fires). So that was you that made the evening news last month!! To close, glad that all is well with everyone.
     
  23. climbabout

    climbabout Member

    Messages:
    225
    Joined:
    Aug 11, 2005
    Location:
    Fairfield Co
    Shooter:
    8x10 Format
    Thanks for the good wishes Steve. I actually visited Fairbanks with my family via the Alaska RR back in 2006. What a great state! What was that about the evening news? I missed that.
    Tim