Mistake made with Acros 100

Discussion in 'B&W: Film, Paper, Chemistry' started by RattyMouse, Feb 14, 2013.

  1. RattyMouse

    RattyMouse Subscriber

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    Hi all, while out shooting in Kyoto today I noticed that I shot a roll of Acros at ISO400 instead of 100. How should I have this developed for best results? All shooting was outdoors in very nice sunlight. +2 stops? Or maybe just +1?

    Thanks,
     
  2. Mainecoonmaniac

    Mainecoonmaniac Subscriber

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    You'll have to push your film 2 stops. Depending on your developer, your shadows might look dark and empty. Your images might still look good.
     
  3. RattyMouse

    RattyMouse Subscriber

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    Any recommended developer that is best for this?
     
  4. mike c

    mike c Subscriber

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    If just one roll and the shots are not to important , just increase the time using your regular devel .
    Mike
     
  5. Jim Taylor

    Jim Taylor Member

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    I made the same mistake and shot this at ISO 200 rather than ISO 100, so only needed to push one stop. Results with ID-11 diluted 1:1 were much better than I expected, although the original scence had really dark, hard shadows anyway.
    I would guess your results will defo be useable, but as Mainecoonmaniac says, you might lose considerable detail in the shadows.

    :smile:
     
  6. Bill Harrison

    Bill Harrison Subscriber

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    Acros @400

    Get someone who can develop in Rodinal, 1:175 for two hours stand development. Get a copy of Iridescent Light, The Art of Stand Development by Michael Axel and start processing your own film.... you'll never look back. OR see the Caffenol site and use the formula for stand dev.
     
  7. mooseontheloose

    mooseontheloose Subscriber

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    I asked about something similar a while ago, this thread might have some useful info for you: click.
     
  8. horacekenneth

    horacekenneth Member

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    I tried pushing acros a while back when I didn't know what I was doing and it didn't turn out. Recently I've been successfully pushing Tri-X (and the same method, I understand, should work basically the same for Acros at these times and dilutions) with Rodinal 1:100 following these directions: http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=927796&postcount=47
    For future reference, the text:
    "Films that are shot at speed - 35mm -

    Several minute water bath
    Rodinal 1:100 - disregard temperature unless extreme heat or cold
    1 minute of slow inversions, maybe 20 in 60 secs
    3 really hard thumps to dislodge air bubbles, very important
    DO NOT TOUCH for 59 minutes, a couple minutes extra will not harm anything(the DO NOT TOUCH is very, very important)
    3 water baths then fix and rinse

    For medium format, I change the dilution to 1:125 and be sure to use 500mm of solution per roll. Everything else the same.

    Pushed film, such Tri-X EI 6400 or Efke KB400 EI 3200...

    Several minute water bath
    Rodinal 1:100 - disregard temperature unless extreme heat or cold
    1 minute of slow inversions, maybe 20 in 60 secs
    Every 30 minutes swirl the tank, like you would a glass of wine, for 15 seconds. Do not invert!
    Total time - 120 minutes
    3 water baths then fix and rinse

    That is it.

    Some notes...

    Expose for the highlights, you will have no trouble with shadow details. Very important to not over-expose as you can quickly lose highlights, if in doubt under-expose a bit.

    Negatives will come out of the tank quite 'flat', even when shooting a very high contrast scene. Add contrast when printing or scanning."

    I don't know quite how linear push processing times are, but he adds an hour (120 min total) to his push times to get a 4 stop push (so 15min per stop). I was going a little bit over 30min (closer to 45) to do a 2 stop push (just to be safe). Other people will have more objective suggestions, I lean in my developing times.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 14, 2013
  9. horacekenneth

    horacekenneth Member

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    I tried pushing acros a while back when I didn't know what I was doing and it didn't turn out. Recently I've been successfully pushing Tri-X (and the same method, I understand, should work basically the same for Acros at these times and dilutions) with Rodinal 1:100 following these directions: http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=927796&postcount=47
    For future reference, the text:
    I don't know quite how linear push processing times are, but he adds an hour (120 min total) to his push times to get a 4 stop push (so 15min per stop). I was going a little bit over 30min (closer to 45) to do a 2 stop push (just to be safe). Other people will have more objective suggestions, I lean in my developing times.
     
  10. wblynch

    wblynch Member

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    Diafine?
     
  11. StoneNYC

    StoneNYC Subscriber

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    I pushed PanF+ 2.5 stops when I shot it at ISO 250 instead of 50 and it turned out like this... http://www.apug.org/gallery1/showimage.php?i=70679&c=500&userid=59230

    I did this on purpose as it was supposed to be a grunge look, but at least you'll get a sense of something similar, a low ASA film pushed 2 stops.

    I pushed it 2.5 stops in Rodinal 1:50 BTW...
     
  12. Newt_on_Swings

    Newt_on_Swings Member

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    Lots of recommendations for rodinal stand, but I think you should consider pushing with a speed increasing developer such as xtol. There are lots out there but xtol is probably the cheapest and most widely available.
     
  13. Athiril

    Athiril Subscriber

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  14. pentaxuser

    pentaxuser Subscriber

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    Somewhere I am convinced I saw a Thomas Bertilsson post on using Xtol for Acros at 400. Do a search

    pentaxuser
     
  15. RattyMouse

    RattyMouse Subscriber

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    Thank you. I will give this a try.