Mounting carbon prints with mount board and matts.

Discussion in 'Alternative Processes' started by michael9793, Mar 20, 2010.

  1. michael9793

    michael9793 Member

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    I have not started carbon printing yet but knowing you are using materials that are heat sensitive how do you mount this work. PS. I hate corners of any kind.
    thank you
    michael andersen
     
  2. John Jarosz

    John Jarosz Member

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    Why do you say that carbon prints are heat sensitive? Once the gelatin has been hardened (by exposure or chemically) it will no longer melt. It will only char. It's the unexposed gelatin that melts away during hot water development.

    Contrary to all the dire pronunciations of the trendy art gallery directors, I drymount my prints.
     
  3. bobherbst

    bobherbst Member

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    Some carbon printers use acrylic polymer for sizing support materials. It will melt in a dry mount press.

     
  4. John Jarosz

    John Jarosz Member

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    Yikes!
     
  5. Colin Graham

    Colin Graham Member

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    Presses are good for flattening the gelatin sized and fiber based photo paper transfers as well. I've forgotten prints in a 180-200 degree press for an hour or so with no ill effects. I drymount them as well.

    That's good to know about the polymer sizes, sounds like a mess best avoided.
     
  6. bobherbst

    bobherbst Member

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    I do not like the look of polymer sizing on paper. I use it on aluminum, but flattening those prints is is obviously unnecessary.

     
  7. Vaughn

    Vaughn Subscriber

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    I suppose it is partly an ego thing, but knowing that the carbon print will still be looking like new a hundred years down the line, it would be nice to have future generations able to re-mat the print if needed. Or even re-wash the print if someone drools on it.

    So I wait a few days to flatten my freshly printed carbon prints to allow the gel to harden, then flatten is a hot mount press (180 to 200F out of habit.) I transfer the image onto fixed out photo paper a size bigger than the tissue (11x14 for an 8x10 image). This extra paper around the print makes it easier to make my own corners and have the image area be nice and flat on the mat board.

    Vaughn
     
  8. R Shaffer

    R Shaffer Member

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    Is acrylic polymer size the same thing as PVA size? I hinge mount, but I have been using PVA size for my recent gum-overs. I would hate to inadvertently ruin a print if I did ever try dry mounting.
     
  9. michael9793

    michael9793 Member

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    I think the reason was I have not made anything using gelatin yet. Platinum is As close as I have gotten. And I dry mount those. But now that you tell me that dry mounting is okay that tells me alot about the stablization of these prints. I have been reading for five days everything I can find. I have ordered materials and can't wait to start. You guys have helped alot. If I have any problems that can't be found reading I'll ask you guys. Again that's for your help.
    Michael Andersen
     
  10. sanking

    sanking Member

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    Some people size art papers with Golden GAC 100, which is described as a multi-purpose acrylic polymer. I much prefer carbon images on gelatin sized papers but the polymer coating looks good to my eyes on some papers.

    Carbon images on gelatin sized papers can be safely flattened in a dry mount press at moderate heat, and dry mounted if that is desired. I generally place my carbon images on either double weight photo paper or fairly heavy sized art papers and don't dry mount. However, if you develop on single weight silver papers or very thin art papers I would recommend dry mounting. As Vaughn already mentioned don't dry mount a freshly developed print because you risk losing the relief.

    Sandy King
     
  11. Loris Medici

    Loris Medici Member

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    I switched to PVAc glue as a size (it's not Gamblin PVA Size, something else) and flattening with a drymount press at 90C / 194F absolutely doesn't hurt it.

    Regards,
    Loris.